Corduroy Man Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 (edited) Hey all new to the fourm here so this is my first shot at a Trip Report. I could not figure out how to make it a cool format like all of your guys? Mabey I'm missing someting. Anyways last August my partner Steve and loaded up his Subaru wagon with hopes of rippin it up on Rooster Rock in the Columbia River Gorge. We couldn't find much information about it other than what Steve had heard from someone talking over at the Circut bouldering gym. Wich was something like this "really easy with a very short hike" well this was misleading. We drove to Rooster Rock State Park, had to pay the fee bummer! Anyways we racked up, 2 packs, 2 ropes, 2 harness, 2 paris of shoes, 2 atcs, 1 set of Rock Empire cams, 1 set Wild Country Hex's, 1 set Black Diamond stoppers, 1 nut tool, 20 carabiners, 2 20' peices of cord, 10 slings and 5 quickdraws. We hoped this would be enough to make this so called easy summit. Turns out this was going to be harded than expected, we could see the rock easily but could we get to it? It seemed as if it was surrounded by water! We tryed and tryed but could not figure out how you could get over there. Steve suggested we swim over there, but I was worried about the water hurting our gear. We tossed around the idea of going back to Troutdale and buying a little raft. In the end though and air conditioned bouldering session won, as it was close to 90 that day. So we loaded back up and headed back to the Cricut to get pumped. Not much of a trip, but the big question is how do ya'll get over there, swim, kayak raft? Cheers and rock on! Edit: P.S. Sorry no pitcures as we forgot the camera not like there would have been many action shots anyways! Edited February 6, 2010 by Corduroy Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frikadeller Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 You're just gonna have to buy the guide book to find out how to get to the rock. As how to post a trip report with the snazzy format, you click "new trip report" rather than the "new topic" button. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 As how to post a trip report with the snazzy format, you click "new trip report" rather than the "new topic" button. this would be true if The Powers That Be hadn't decided oddly to prevent TR's from being listed in this particuliar foru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frikadeller Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 You know what, I just noticed that. Hmmmm... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 As how to post a trip report with the snazzy format, you click "new trip report" rather than the "new topic" button. this would be true if The Powers That Be hadn't decided oddly to prevent TR's from being listed in this particuliar foru That is probable all Ivan's fault. If'n they made it easy to do a "snazzy" TR in this forum, he'd have a couple hundred more TRs by now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corduroy Man Posted February 7, 2010 Author Share Posted February 7, 2010 Hey thanks for they replys guys! I will for sure be picking up that book before the next adventure. Anyone else climb the thing have any experinces to share? I'd be stoaked to hear! Cheers all and rock on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 You start on the side facing the highway, approach by walking down the highway, leave most the gear, don't expect any on P1-maybe one crappy piton. Climb this at night on the star gazing day when it's allowed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe_Poulton Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 There is a thin strip of land that follows the highway on the outside of the barrier... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 Steve suggested we swim over there, but I was worried about the water hurting our gear..... Never swim with your gear son unless there is no other alternative, the stuff is too heavy and cumbersome and you will most likely immediately sink like a rock and drown. Don't clip it off to your harness if you chose to ignore this advice, put it on a gear sling with a long runner attached. Anytime you are climbing over rivers, you can rig a long sling to your gear sling so if you have to drop it off due to a fall into the river, as long as the cord is longer than the river is deep, you won't sink and you can pull your gear out. Keep a knife handy in case you misjudge the distances and get pulled under and have to cut it anyway. Wish I had a picture of Wiss falling into the muddy banks of the river when his pitons zippered. Rock on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 As others have stated, park in the lot, walk back to the highway and follow it west until you are just past the spire. There is a trail leading right to the base. You only need one rope and a couple draws and stoppers. Its about 5.4ish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 Never swim with your gear son unless there is no other alternative, the stuff is too heavy and cumbersome and you will most likely immediately sink like a rock and drown. Don't clip it off to your harness if you chose to ignore this advice, put it on a gear sling with a long runner attached. Anytime you are climbing over rivers, you can rig a long sling to your gear sling so if you have to drop it off due to a fall into the river, as long as the cord is longer than the river is deep, you won't sink and you can pull your gear out. Keep a knife handy in case you misjudge the distances and get pulled under and have to cut it anyway. Wish I had a picture of Wiss falling into the muddy banks of the river when his pitons zippered. If we had an archive of sage advice for climbers, this post would belong there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King Beatard Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 You might want to trail a second rope to simplify the rappel. I found more good hex placements than nut placements on this so you might want to bring them along as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corduroy Man Posted March 9, 2010 Author Share Posted March 9, 2010 Hey all, just wanted to thank everyone for the awsome beta! Looks like it helped us a lot, as my partner and I were able to make the summit of Rooster Rock this past Saturday. Gee that anchor on top is really weird, but everything about the climb was great. I did get a little scarred on the loose rock, so I made sure I sewed the pitch up with gear. Luckily we had a double sized rack to 4" or I probably would have been pretty gripped. Great views of the gorge and Crown Point. Anyone climb Crown Point? Looks like Oregons mini El Capitan. Hope everyone sent hard this weekend! Rock on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted March 10, 2010 Share Posted March 10, 2010 Nice Cords! I have great memories of that rock. You should spend the night on top, It is amazing! And lots of people have climbed Crown Point , a couple of trs around too. Good hunting, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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