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Rapping the Monkey


tvashtarkatena

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Cool video. When we climbed it, I took the first lead and wound up at that anchor you pointed out. Hideous. We had to rap down from the anchor to reach the top of the on-route first pitch. I remember not having any pro and slinging a pinky-sized juniper for some psycological pro. Couldnt see my partner but when he got to that piece, I heard a "What the f@@@?!" LOL. Thanks for bringing back the nighmares.

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Nice POV Pat.

 

Toddipoo, the bag goes on your belay loop between your legs. No chest harness needed. The pic on the right shows how it is done.

 

escape2.jpg

 

Thanks Geoff. Good info. like the first config as I already use the second config. So the first config is for heavier loads?

 

Always learning

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Get a Petzl Shunt if you're going to be rapping with significant loads with any frequency. Put it directly on your belay loop and put your rap device off the belay loop above the Shunt by a draw's length. Put your load off the belay device and forget about both the load and the belay device. Rap with your high hand on the Shunt and your low hand on the rope. Effortless.

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Is the shunt a significant improvement over using an autoblock/prussic off your leg loop? The autoblock has the advantage of being super cheaper and lighter.

 

we used shunts all the time when working on cellpone towers but id be hard to find any solid use for them in any aspect of rock climbing other than rescue or hardcore rigging

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Is the shunt a significant improvement over using an autoblock/prussic off your leg loop? The autoblock has the advantage of being super cheaper and lighter.

It isn't an improvement of any type; it's an entirely different deal altogether. Don't use it a for backing up a rap (though you could)- use it for rapping with loads.

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Is the shunt a significant improvement over using an autoblock/prussic off your leg loop? The autoblock has the advantage of being super cheaper and lighter.

we used shunts all the time when working on cellpone towers but id be hard to find any solid use for them in any aspect of rock climbing

Used as I describe above they're THE way to effortlessly rap with heavy loads - particularly when doing anchor replacement or cleaning routes.

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Nice vid, after seeing some of the jerky, low quality ones, this is nice. You could have filmed the 2nd rappelling down next for an overview. Looking straight up or from the rim, either way.

i was too busy trying to find where the pig had run oft to :)

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