Lodestone Posted November 18, 2009 Posted November 18, 2009 My girlfriend sometimes goes climbing with me. She seems to like climbing chimneys the most. Anyone know of a nice, mellow chimney at one the Portland area crags? Sanity Assassin at Carver has a couple feet of chimney that she likes but it's so short. Chad Quote
G-spotter Posted November 18, 2009 Posted November 18, 2009 "good" and "near portland" don't really go together all that often Quote
ivan Posted November 18, 2009 Posted November 18, 2009 "good" and "near portland" don't really go together all that often i can't believe you never bought weed 'roudn there g-dawg she might like right gull out at beacon rock, it's chimesque in parts hey, how about the alpinejagger on crown point - scott got his wife up it the other day! Quote
Mtguide Posted November 18, 2009 Posted November 18, 2009 (edited) You bet,the classic climb of Crown Point has one of the longer chimneys around. The second pitch begins as a deep chimney and actually becomes a tunnel that goes right through the main right hand column. Easy 5th class becoming 4th class, and a complete hoot/kick in the ass. Edited November 18, 2009 by Mtguide Quote
Lodestone Posted November 18, 2009 Author Posted November 18, 2009 You bet,the classic climb of Crown Point has one of the longer chimneys around. The second pitch begins as a deep chimney and actually becomes a tunnel that goes right through the main right hand column. Easy 5th class becoming 4th class, and a complete hoot/kick in the ass. Sweet, I'll check that out. Chad Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted November 18, 2009 Posted November 18, 2009 Here is Plaidman's (Scott's) TR on it. Looks pretty scary to me! http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=907095 Quote
crimper Posted November 18, 2009 Posted November 18, 2009 also at carver there's a long 5.9 just to the right of notorious (meaning the far left side of the crag) that starts with 30-40 feet of chimney moves. it also protects pretty well, with varyingh sized gear placements. i'm spacing the name of the route at the moment....i also think the upper part might be dirty, but there are intermediate anchors you can access if you want to bail early. Quote
corvallisclimb Posted November 18, 2009 Posted November 18, 2009 tons of sweet chimneys at smith but thats a little far. upper pitches up lions jaw are bitchen. Quote
layton Posted November 19, 2009 Posted November 19, 2009 Does Smith Count? If so, buy the guidebook and you'll find lots of great chimneys. Madrone has excellent O/W's, but I heard y'all screwed that place by trying to protect it. Quote
hemp22 Posted November 20, 2009 Posted November 20, 2009 like others have said - i think you're gonna have to drive a bit to find any long or sustained chimney routes....smith, leavenworth, etc. (ignoring the crown point "adventure" possibility) There are a few routes in the PDX metro area that offer at least a few feet of chimney-esque climbing: right gull, blownout, gandalf's P3, & 1 or 2 at carver...shoot from the hip & superstition (depending on how you do them) Quote
ivan Posted November 20, 2009 Posted November 20, 2009 the first floor of the doernbacher children's hospital has several excellent, 20 foot high chimneny problems on pleasing faux-rock Quote
Lodestone Posted November 20, 2009 Author Posted November 20, 2009 Thanks everyone. Some new ones to me and some forgotten ones. Chad Quote
Plaidman Posted November 20, 2009 Posted November 20, 2009 Here is Plaidman's (Scott's) TR on it. Looks pretty scary to me! http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=907095 You may want to read this for sure. Unless your girlfriend it into bushwhacking and an Alpine adventure I would not suggest the West Chimney on Crown Point. Unless you would like her to be your x-girlfriend or you are trying to find out if she is made of the right stuff. We did it on the hottest day last August. It may be a friggin freezer in there now. The climb is good but getting off the damn thing was a bitch. Quote
billcoe Posted November 20, 2009 Posted November 20, 2009 The PSU science bldg has an external stairway that goes 5 stories. Take slings to pro off the handrails as you cruise by. It's a wide ass stem. Quote
eldiente Posted November 20, 2009 Posted November 20, 2009 The building next to PRG has a 10" OW that has been lead and free soloed. Rumored to be hard... Quote
kevbone Posted November 20, 2009 Posted November 20, 2009 Pink on “sobriety crack “ in down town Flagstaff, AZ. Quote
Lodestone Posted November 20, 2009 Author Posted November 20, 2009 You may want to read this for sure. Unless your girlfriend it into bushwhacking and an Alpine adventure I would not suggest the West Chimney on Crown Point. Unless you would like her to be your x-girlfriend or you are trying to find out if she is made of the right stuff. We did it on the hottest day last August. It may be a friggin freezer in there now. The climb is good but getting off the damn thing was a bitch. Thanks, after Steve posted your trip report I was pretty excited until I read it and watched the videos. My girlfriend is a little too much of a fair weather climber to deal with the West Chimney. By the way, Tim Olson has a new book out, Gorge Classic Climbs, that has some info and a topo for this route (although your trip report has much more information). The PSU science bldg has an external stairway that goes 5 stories. Take slings to pro off the handrails as you cruise by. It's a wide ass stem. I spent a lot of time in SB1 & SB2, I ought to remember that. I'll have to to wander back on campus. The building next to PRG has a 10" OW that has been lead and free soloed. Rumored to be hard... The building west of PRG? Interesting. Thanks everyone. Chad Quote
G-spotter Posted November 20, 2009 Posted November 20, 2009 Pink on “sobriety crack “ in down town Flagstaff, AZ. Oh hey, that is SUCH a 1) chimney 2) close to Portland isn't it?! Quote
Farrgo Posted November 20, 2009 Posted November 20, 2009 There is a good chimney at Horsetheif Butte. From parking area it is located at basically the right corner on the parking lot side (i.e., walk to base of wall and go around the right to the corner). Maybe 5.6? Runout lead, but easy to drop a top rope. Quote
ColinB Posted November 20, 2009 Posted November 20, 2009 The building next to PRG has a 10" OW that has been lead and free soloed. Rumored to be hard... The science building is getting a major (multi-year) overhaul/retrofit and is largely fenced off now... Quote
Lodestone Posted November 20, 2009 Author Posted November 20, 2009 There is a good chimney at Horsetheif Butte. From parking area it is located at basically the right corner on the parking lot side (i.e., walk to base of wall and go around the right to the corner). Maybe 5.6? Runout lead, but easy to drop a top rope. Perfect, my GF really likes Horsethief Butte. I'd never noticed this climb but I see it now on the topo from Olson's book. Chad Quote
dan_forester Posted November 20, 2009 Posted November 20, 2009 there's lots of loose rock in and around those chimneys on the west side of horsethief. use good judgement. Quote
wayne Posted November 21, 2009 Posted November 21, 2009 Nobody has mentioned the one at Broughtons on Hanging Gardens wall. My second climb ever! Quote
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