crimper

Describe it, and it's yours....

Hi, if anyone found my blue rain jacket at the base of the main cliff at this crag on Sunday February 15, please let me know. I heard that an Erin and a Graham were there after I left, and may have been with some Circuit employees. I will call the Circuit, but maybe I'll have some luck here! Thanks, Bryan.

A few routes at carver could also use some love. The long 5-10c/d to the right of Smerk (accessed by a 5-8 trad crack, or by skipping Smerk's anchors to the left and instead heading up and right) has 5 ancient bolts, as does the 2 bolt 10b extension that goes to the top of the cliff. The crux bolt caught our whippers this summer but looks frankly awful. I could probably help with Carver...

Ask Micah Klesick, he's an administrator with Mt. project now and could probably make it happen.

If I were more tech savvy this would look better, but: the green line is the 5-9 Cougar Buttress. The Yellow and purple lines show Yardsale, including a couple variations we came up with. The yellow line is the way to go on the second half of the route. We went that way after scaring ourselves on the easier but scary terrain shown by the purple line. Yardsale proper starts on purple, then sticks with yellow once you hit yellow. I am so surprised more climbers don't climb here.

I finally posted a photo! Look out. The Cougar Buttress 5-9 starts on the wall just right of the black midway line on the photo, and more or less goes straight up to the right of that black line, then cuts right to the wide looking corner system that angles up and left to gain the base of the shiny headwall at the very top of the buttress. There is a huge ledge at the base of that headwall - which is about 80/90 feet tall, believe it or not. The 5-11 crack goes directly up the headwall, the 5-9 chimney splits the right side (you can see it, and it takes normal sized gear), a 5-10 crack splits the left side of the headwall, and the 4th class exit weasels out to the left of the headwall. Mark D and I put up a multi in the next crack system to the right, one buttress over: Yardsale, 10a. The second pitch follows the striking crack system, then the route eventually angles leftward to gain the ledge at the base of the headwall. Yardsale is a bit harder than the Cougar Buttress and a little more adventurous, but protects reasonably. I'm not sure if anyone does it, though...even though it has bolted anchors...

Hey Ben! I think it's just called the Cougar Buttress. I was told it went up in the late 1970s as it was the most obvious crack system from the base to the summit. "We" considered it the best 5-9 multi in Oregon, or at least way better than any 5-8 or 5-9 multis at Smith (White Satin, Wherever I May Roam, Thin Air, Solar, etc. are nowhere near as good or sustained). Picture the last pitch on Zebra Zion in terms of difficulty, positive holds and gear quality, then make it 350 feet long and all reasonably protected with trad gear and bolted anchors. No runouts at all, just stout solid cracks to protect. Then add a one pitch summitting option of either a 4th class weasel exit, a great 5-9 chimney crack (Ben you did that), 5-10 rising traverse crack or 5-11c finger and hand crack through a roof, so you don't have to rap off. Wish I was there right now...

Done.

At Beacon yesterday i looked at Sufficiently Breathless. (I'm referencing my earlier comments about how good the pins on this route are or aren't, and whether they should be replaced) The route is heavily vegetated and by all appearances has not been climbed despite a full month of Beacon season. So, after all my complaining about the 2 pins, maybe none of you would be climbing it even if it had two bolts, because nobody is climbing it anyway? And if it has been climbed this year, maybe next time try and do some cleaning on the way down to get this great climb back in the rotation. Winter Delight also looked pretty lonely. Spring Fever, too. Why do those great climbs get neglected? PS - I led Blownout direct and guess what, I didn't like clipping 3 pins (and a manky fixed alien) in a row! I guess it's me who has an issue with pins. When I was younger I pretended they were bolts but as I age and hear more stories about pins I no longer have great confidence on them...my issue, not yours...

Where did you find it?

Steve, I don't really think people want beacon to be obscure, but let's face it, would you rather climb on Tuesday by yourself or a weekend? I was there Saturday and there were 6-7 parties on the routes under 5-10 (you know those routes), and 2 parties down by the arena of terror. (I was there Tuesday and saw only Kenny and Ivan, for contrast) So when it's crowded it's great to have more routes both open and clean, but that requires US to get out there and spend our time cleaning them after the closure. And for those with families, etc, it's hard to justify spending a day out there just cleaning, not climbing. Nobody goes to Smith or Ozone and spends the day cleaning the classics, right? So I agree that the closure is the main reason routes get dirty. It takes all summer for them to slowly get cleaned, then all the hard work is erased during the closure. Last July I battled my way up Suff. Breathless, cleaning as I went, then got scared at the pins when i realized my lowest gear would be useless if the pins both pulled. (And trust me, I didn't skip a single placement i could excavate or find) I have no pride and I hung on the top pin so I could rest and do my best to avoid actually falling on the pin - but that would never have happened if there had been a bolt there, or a pin that had recently been checked. Anyway, this is apparently my personal drama with that route, so does anyone here have contact info. for Scott? I will contact him if I can. Thanks! (and don't get me started on p3 of young warriors, with those useless pins at the bottom of the dihedral - splat! even if they hold, splat splat if they don't)

I wish we could stick with the fixed pin comments made by Eldiente (Nate), which I think built on my comment that there are 2 pins on Sufficiently Breathless that are the only things between you and the ground when you are in the last 15 (crux) feet of the route. Kenny, i love your tough guy attitude, but "not clipping the pins" on SBreathless would mean soling the top of a 10a out there. In the middle of an alpine route put up on lead and in the backcountry, yes, dangerous runouts happen because the FA party had no means to install fixed gear and never went back - but that's asinine on a single pitch climb off the deck that could easily be equipped with a bolt instead of a pin. If someone decks because a pin fails you can bet there will be a closer look at all the pins at Beacon... Would it not be more reasonable to have 2 bolts instead of 2 pins? Also, since the question was raised about bad pins: I watched Arent pull out a pin on blood, sweat and smears with his bare hands about 10 years ago. He retreated to the anchor. I doubt the pin has been replaced, and has anyone seen how neglected that proud and beautiful line has become? That's what happens when you don't - as a community - maintain fixed pro on your classic climbs. they fall into anonymity. (Which i think most of you want for Beacon anyway, though...) so yeah, i don't really trust the pins at beacon, no matter what Joe says. i'd rather clip a bolt anyday, seems a fair statement to make whether you are at beacon, ozone, broughton, smith, leavenworth, j tree, etc.. i'd rather clip a bolt than a pin. I can't unsee watching Arent pull out that pin...

Steve, that's a convenient way to ignore the larger issue i raised about our climbing community. Yeah, I'm still bitter that some of the guys who put up routes at the Drop Zone well after "me and my friends" had put up the first dozen or two routes there then decided to vandalize my route just to prove a point about who "owns" the rock: they had decreed that the Drop Zone must be "built" in their design, which was runout 5-9s with no bolts, headopinted once with tiny gear in 2009, but now in 2014 are overgrown with moss, and so there was no room for my the 2 bolts on my 10c. They even began to call it the Far Side, taking over the name! How territorial! (said group of course placed dozens of rap anchors even when chopping my lead bolts, and has since added lead bolts to their routes at the Drop Zone, just to really heighten the irony of chopping my lead bolts) But of course this isn;t about the chopping of my bolts in 2009 or whatever this is about the passive aggressive vandalism that still lingers, it seems... Anyway, I'm surprised you would simply piss on Joe again instead of engaging the issue I raised.

way too many questions that feel identical. i stopped at 35 or so because the last 15 or so were just very slight variations on previous questions. 2 or 3 variations, sure, but 12 or 13...to avoid marring your data i stopped around 35 and did not submit because my last 10 answers were all answered via the neutral box in the middle because the questions had become meaningless variations on previous questions and i was numb. i wanted to help, but fair warning to others...

No matter how you feel about Joseph (and I'm not here to defend his use of cc.com over the years, which he knows I disapprove of) cutting his rope is a scumbag move. If you encouraged someone to cut his rope, you are a scumbag. If you knew about it and said nothing to stop it, you are a scumbag. Just because somone is 60 or 70 years old doesn't make them right, or their methods defensible. You know who exactly who you are and what I'm talking about. Think for yourself and stop trying to impress other people. I'm only writing because I had my bolts vandalized/chopped at the Drop Zone around 3-4 years ago, and I know who did it (or encouraged a younger climber eager to earn his approval to actually do it) because he took responsibility for the chopping and told me he "fucked up" during a time of "limited consciousness." So when I hear about more vandalism at the Drop Zone, I assume - and maybe I'm wrong, but I doubt it - that the same small cohort that chopped my bolts (scarring the rock on a spicy 10c with 3 bolts in 60 feet, making a scratched up area you can see from the trail - way to go, fellow beacon climber, i think of your idiocy every time i see the scar) is now spending their quality time on god's green earth chopping a fellow climber's rap line he uses to rope-solo a few pitches away from you and in peace. I know we are better than this, let's start to act like it.

I also have photos with multi-pitch routes drawn in with colored lines. just not sure how to post them, although i could email them to anyone who PMs me. cougar is such a great alternative to smith in the summer, i'd love to aid people in getting out there and having some adventures. there is so much potential for routes out there, still...

ah hell, this is a redlined version of me and mark deffenbaugh taking jim davis' original guide and adding new route information. i could email a clean copy if i could find it. it can only help, even if may not make much sense until you walk tthe crag, topo in hand. Routes are described from West to East. This Aint No Gully (5.8) Gear to 3 inches. P.1 Start at a crumbly face split by a crack to left of Two Tree Gully. Follow crack to a ledge, belay off natural anchor. (5.8) P.2 Better climbing and good gear leads to a tree at the summit. (5.8) FA Bryan Smith, Mark Deffenbaugh Lash Up (5.10+) bolts Short and bouldery. FA Mike Pajunas, Jim Davis, J. Spreecher. October 2003 Sanitized ( for your protection ) aka Crusty the Clown ( 5.7) Gear to 2 inches Good route for beginning leader. FA Sprecher, Davis, Frank ( TR J. Davis late 70’s ) Hard Candy (5.10c/d) bolts Crimpy and technical. FA Mike Pajunas, on Sprecher (??). September 2002. Sharpen Your Teeth (5.11a) bolts Steep crux. Technical climbing down low. a steep and satisfying crux that gives way to moderate climbing. FRL Byron Roe, Summer 2002. ( prep J. Davis, Paunas ) Gouge Away (5.10b) Gear to 21 inches? Scramble up into a nice, clean dihedral, then step left when possible to finish at “Sharpen Your Teeth” anchor. Nice clean crack. FRA Ted? Shandi?, Summer 2003. Shadow Play (5.10d) Gear to 2 inches, bolts Good mixed route. Easier for the grade. FA J. Davis,Haake ( prep assist Paunas, Sprecher ) The Windy Corner (5.10b) bolts Thuggish arête and face; hard for grade. FA Mike Pajunas, Jim Davis, October 1997. Bolted Crack (5.8) bolts (or gear to 4 inches) Old school crack climb that was retro-bolted. Finishes at Windy Corner anchor. FA ? bolts added by Ryan ?, Summer 2006 Windhover Arete (5.11a) bolts Excellent climbing on a sustained long arete and face. One of the best climbs for the grade. . FA Jim Davis, Mike Pajunas ( assists: J. Frank, J. Sprecher ) Bee Line (5.10b) bolts Long pitch on quality rock. 70 meter rope required (???) FA Mike Pajunas, J. Sprecher, Summer 2001 Piece of Sky (5.10d) bolts Would have been a better mixed route. Some odd bolt placements. FA Mike Pajunas, J. Sprecher Golden Buttress (5.9) Gear to3 2 inches, bolts P. 1 High quality first pitch. (5.9) P.2 Climb gold corner to base of pinnacle. (?) P. 3 Head up easy rock on west face. (?) FRA Jim Davis, Jon Sprecher ( Dave Haake pitch 1 ) Unnamed (5.10+) Gear to 2 inches, bolts High quality pitch with crux at the last bolt, followed by fun gear protected climbing. FRA Mark Deffenbaugh 2007 Ablao pitch (5.9) Gear to 3.5 inches Where is it? Describe, please. FA Jim Ablao, Aaron Webb, 2007 Trick or Treat (5.9+) bolts Far left of three short bolted routes.Least favorite of three Awkward and slabby climbing. FA Mike Pajunas, Jim Davis ( assist: C. Martin ) Halloween 1998. Something Man (5.10a) bolts Good route on positive holds. FA Mike Pajunas, Jim Davis, Summer 2001. Nothing Man (5.10a) bolts Arete climbing on aesthetic rock. Runout above last bolt. FA Jim Davis, Jon Sprecher ( assist: M. Pajunas ) Fall 1997 Smith/Deffenbaugh Route (5.10-) Gear to 3 inches P.1 Climb Something Man. (5-10a) P. 2 Traverse directly left, then up and left through successive roofs to Move onto left wall and climb crack and face to lLedge;. no anchor. (5-10a) FA Bryan Smith, Mark Deffenbaugh 7-24-07 B.A.G. It (5.11+/5.12a) bolts FA Brittany Griffith, Jonathon Thesenga ( prep Pajuanas, Davis ) Unnamed (5.9 C1+) Gear to 3 inches P. 1 Start on Something man. (5.10a) P. 2 Ascend crack system to belay below big roofs. (5.9) P. 3 Move left off belay and climb crack till possible to make cool traverse to anchor in rght-facing corner. (5.8) P. 4 aid/free climb up steep crack and out roofs above. (?) P. 5 4th and low 5th class to the top. (?) FA complete Mark Deffenbaugh, Gabe Coler, July 2007 FA (pitches 1-3) Mark Deffenbaugh, Bryan Smith, Tyler Kamm, Summer 2007 FA (pitches 4-5, and first complete ascent) Mark Deffenbaugh, Gabe Coler, July 2007 Unnamed (5.10-) Gear to 3 inches P. 1 Start on Something Man P.2 Move out right and boulder up to crack system. FA Mark Deffenbaugh, Jim Ablao, Summer 2007 Unnamed (5.10-) gear to 2 inches P. 1 Start on Something Man P. 2 Climb Unnamed P.3 Move left off belay and ascend steep wall climbing onto golden buttress. FA Jim Ablao, Mark Deffenbaugh, July 2007 Exploring The Axis - (5.11a) Gear to 4 inches P. 1 Climb bolted face to ledge or chimney system to the right on gear. P. 2 Good crack climbing leads an awkwarkd belay below roof. P. 3 Move out right, clipping one bolt and pull roof. great pitch. P. 4 Steep corner pitch. (5.10+) P.5 Pull roof and belay on spacious ledge. (5.11a) P.6 Moderate but loose climbing leads to base of OW. P.7 Climb OW FA pitches 1 and 2 with chimney start: Paul Landrum Jim Davis, Fall 1977 FRA Brian McMillan, Jim Davis, July 2000 2nd pitch variation (5.10) gear to 2 inches. Climbs crack system to the right and out roof protected by a fixed pin. good climbing. FA Jim Davis,Doug Mishler, 1980 Silver Bullet (5.11d) bolts Right trending crimpfest. sustained. FA Jimd Davis, Mike Pajunas ( assist: B Sheff, J. Sprecher Cougar Buttress (5.9) gear to 3 inches Best multi-pitch route for the grade in Oregon. P. 1 Start in deep chimney and gain splitter zig-zag crack, then continue up corner until possible to traverse left over roof to belay. (5.9) P. 3 Follow weakness to run-out mantle move on slab. (5.9) P. 4 Sustained, old-school climbing up the corner to base of headwall. (5.9) P. 5 You can either: climb the headwall to the top; climb left-trending ramp to either a, 4th class finish to the top (stay left ) or to another belay below an obvious OW. P. 6 Finish up OW. (rating???) FA Paul Landrum, Dave Mention, Fall 1976. X Route (5.11a) bolts Quality climb up technical face. FA unknown, 1995? Cougar Headwall (5.11c) Gear to 2 inches Stellar face/crack climb up the center of the headwall. FFA Mark Deffenbaugh, Ryan Brophy, summer 2007 FA TR Jim Davis 1996 Cougar Headwall West (5.9 C1) Gear to 3 inches FFA Mark Deffenbaugh, Chris Vaughn., July 1, 2008 FA Mark Deffenbaugh, Josh Lagalo, J. june 30, 2008 (5.10-??).9 C1) Cougar Express (5.10-) gear to 3 inches P. 1 Climb first two pitches of Cougar Buttress to anchor on ledge. (5.9) P. 2 TraverseMove out right and climb steep but short crack out roof;. fFinish at to the anchor on Yardsale anchor. (5.10a) P. 3 Spicy move off belay gives way to moderate crack climbing. (5.9) P. 4 Slabby fFace climbing with decentok gear to anchor at base of deep chimney on right side of headwall. (5.7) P. 5 Work up cChimney, traverse right around roof, then continue up chimney feature to reach 4th class exit to summit and natural anchor. and grovel to top. (5.10a) FA Mark Deffenbaugh, Bryan Smith, Summer 2007 X Route (5.11a) bolts Quality climb up technical face. FA unknown, 1995? Yardsale (5.10-) Gear to 3 inches P. 1 Chimney and face climb uppast bolts, then make an airy move up and left to nice ledge on main wall. (5-10a) P. 2 Follow Ccorner up climbing that leads into to a steep hand crack, then head up and left through your choice of cracks to a big ledge. (5.10a) P. 3 Move right off belay and climb beautiful face on gear. (5.9) P. 4 Slab cClimb right across runout but easy slab right until you gain left facing dihedral; natural anchor on ledge above. (5.7) P. 5 Steep move off belay (don’t remember this) leads to heinous adventrure cascade-choss climbing. (5.?) FA Mark Deffenbaugh, Bryan Smith, Summer 2006 Cool Cat (5.10d/11a) bolts Nice long pitch with the hardest moves near the start. FA MIke Pajunas, J. Sprecher Edge of Light (5.10a) Gear to 2 inches, bolts Good climb with the second pitch being a favorite for the grade. P. 1 Start on three bolts, then finish up crack (5.9) P. 2 Move right and ascend beautiful face past horizontal cracks and a roof. (5.10a) FA Jim Davis, Mike Pajunas. Jon Sprecher, Summer 2000 Unnamed (5.10-) gear to 2inches P. 1 Start on Something Man P. 2 Climb Unnamed P.3 Move left off belay and ascend steep wall climbing onto golden buttress. FA Jim Ablao, Mark Deffenbaugh, July 2007 Exploring The Axis - (5.11a) Gear to 4 inches P. 1 Climb bolted face to ledge or chimney system to the right on gear. P. 2 Good crack climbing leads an awkwarkd belay below roof. P. 3 Move out right, clipping one bolt and pull roof. great pitch. P. 4 Steep corner pitch. (5.10+) P.5 Pull roof and belay on spacious ledge. (5.11a) P.6 Moderate but loose climbing leads to base of OW. P.7 Climb OW FA pitches 1 and 2 with chimney start: Paul Landrum Jim Davis, Fall 1977 FRA Brian McMillan, Jim Davis, July 2000 2nd pitch variation (5.10) gear to 2 inches. Climbs crack system to the right and out roof protected by a fixed pin. good climbing. FA Jim Davis,Doug Mishler, 1980 Silver Bullet (5.11d) bolts Right trending crimpfest. sustained. FA Jimd Davis, Mike Pajunas ( assist: B Sheff, J. Sprecher Cougar Buttress (5.9) gear to 3 inches Best multi-pitch route for the grade in Oregon. P. 1 start in deep chimney and gain splitter crack. P. 2 Continue up corner until possible to traverse left over roof to belay. P. 3 Follow weakness to run-out mantle move on slab. P. 4 Sustained, old-school climbing up left-facing corner. P. 5 You can either: climb the headwall to the top; climb left-trending ramp to either a, 4th class finish to the top (stay left ) or to another belay below an obvious OW. P. 6 Finish up OW. FA Paul Landrum, Dave Mention, Fall 1976. Cat Power (5.11b) bolts Short and mean. FA Mike Pajunas, Jim Davis, Summer 2001 Coler/Kamm Chimney (5.9) Gear to 3 inches FA Gabe Coler, Tyler Kamm, Summer 2007 The Dark Side (5.10-) Gear to 3 inches P. 1 Climb squeeze chimney P. 2 Face climbing on dark water streak. Finish on east side of Edge of Light anchor. FA Gabe Coler, Mark Deffenbaugh 2007 Konaan (5.10a) bolts Can be climbed on either side of the bolt line. If staying right, expect an aAesthetic climb on granite-esque patinas and a heavily- featured face. If staying left, expect slightly harder climbing through a little bulge. FA Jon Sprecher, Jim Davis, David Haake, Summer 1997 Chimney (5.6) Gear to 3 inches Fun climbing up moderate chimney. (in order to place gear, I found difficulties more like 5.8. my two cents) FA Unknown Surgical Focus (5.11a) bolts Excellent steep crimpfest. FA Jim Davis ( assist: Alumbaugh, Foff, Frank ) Surgical Focus Slight Return (5.11b) bolts Logical finish to Surgical Focus, continuing oward to Tova anchor. FRL Jonathon Thesenga Tova (5.10b) bolts Long steep arete on high quality rock. FA Jim Davis, Jon Sprecher ( assist: B Sheff, J. Rich ) Spring 2007 Lost Ponderosa Route (5.8) Gear to 3 inches FA Paul Landrum, Taylor, Fall 1976 Nazarian/Hymen Route (5.9) gear to 3 inches FA Wil Nazarian, Mai Hymen, Kevin Prince, Summer 2006 Deffenbaugh/Smith Route (5.9) gear to 5 inches P. 1 Wide crack climbing. (5.9) P. 2 Face and crack climbing to natural anchor below big roofs. (5.8) FA Mark Deffenbaugh, Bryan Smith, Summer 2006 Chris’’s Route (5.9) Gear to ? FA Chris Vaughnn (sp?) Mai’s Chimney (5.9) gear to 3 inches P.1 Face climb to ledge below chimney. P.2 Chimney to top. FA Mai Hymen, Peter ? Summer 2006 Pagan Animal Sacrifice (5.9/10a) bolts Ok route FA Jon L. Sprecher, September 2002 Tripping With a Purple Flower (5.10a) bolts Ok route FA Mike Pajunas, Jon Sprecher, Summer 1999 Landrum’s 10c (5.10d) bolts Old-school ground up bolted face climb. Techy moves over roof give way to classic slab climbing. FA Paul Landrum, Jim Davis, Fall 1977 Not now Kato (5.10a) bolts Pull roof and head up aesthetic face and arete. FA Mike Pajunas, Jon Sprecher, Summer 1999 Track Of the Cat (5.10c) bolts Long route that climbs over a few roofs with multiple cruxes. FA Jim Davis, J. Srecher ( assist: H. Sprecher, J. Frank ) Summer 2001 Quick Karma (5.9/5.10a) Gear to 2 inches, bolts Worthy mixed route. FA Jon and Hans Sprecher, Summer 2002 Zoom In (5.10d) bolts Sketchy first pitch with a classic second pitch. FA Mike Pajunas, Jon Sprecher, Jim Davis, Fall 2000 Golden Touch (5.10d) bolts Mike Pajunas ( assist: J. Sprecher ) Summer 2001 Far East Buttress (5.8) Gear to 4 inches Classic two pitch moderate. FRA Jim Davis, Jon Sprecher, Fall 2000 Tumalo Tower, NE Arete (5.9) bolts Insecure and awkward. Not the best climb, but a great summit. FA Jim Davis, Mike Pajunas, Jon Sprecher, June 1998

PM me, i have all the beta you need.

Does anyone have beta on the sandbagged 10a money pitch? Like, how runout, and what kind of gear to save for the top? We're a party of 3 that are all coming off the couch and at least want to know what we're getting into. Thanks!

dude, there are not that many rocks. no need to scare people off an area that hardly sees climber trafffic and could use some. i have a low-riding subaru legacy and mark had a low-riding subaru forester and neither of us ever had a bit of trouble in well over a hundred visits between us. sorry you had a different experience than everybody else. anyway, this is an echo chamber between you and me, i'm not sure anyone else is even reading this, so why am i typing?

i guess i forgot that. don't drive over any large rocks you see, get out and move 'em! (maybe this was after a storm???)

11b, learning to fly, everyone loves it. there's no reason for 4 wheel drive. no rocks, just gravel, though steep. about a 20-25 minute walk no matter what car you have. it is all shade, so it's great in spring and fall. just watch the snakes in summer! there's 2 lead bolts at the crag, otherwise all trad, but with bolted anchors and all routes under 100 feet (usually 50-80, and every move is burly, very few edges let alone handholds)