Lodestone Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 My girlfriend sometimes goes climbing with me. She seems to like climbing chimneys the most. Anyone know of a nice, mellow chimney at one the Portland area crags? Sanity Assassin at Carver has a couple feet of chimney that she likes but it's so short. Chad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 "good" and "near portland" don't really go together all that often Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 "good" and "near portland" don't really go together all that often i can't believe you never bought weed 'roudn there g-dawg she might like right gull out at beacon rock, it's chimesque in parts hey, how about the alpinejagger on crown point - scott got his wife up it the other day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mtguide Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 (edited) You bet,the classic climb of Crown Point has one of the longer chimneys around. The second pitch begins as a deep chimney and actually becomes a tunnel that goes right through the main right hand column. Easy 5th class becoming 4th class, and a complete hoot/kick in the ass. Edited November 18, 2009 by Mtguide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lodestone Posted November 18, 2009 Author Share Posted November 18, 2009 You bet,the classic climb of Crown Point has one of the longer chimneys around. The second pitch begins as a deep chimney and actually becomes a tunnel that goes right through the main right hand column. Easy 5th class becoming 4th class, and a complete hoot/kick in the ass. Sweet, I'll check that out. Chad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 Here is Plaidman's (Scott's) TR on it. Looks pretty scary to me! http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=907095 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crimper Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 also at carver there's a long 5.9 just to the right of notorious (meaning the far left side of the crag) that starts with 30-40 feet of chimney moves. it also protects pretty well, with varyingh sized gear placements. i'm spacing the name of the route at the moment....i also think the upper part might be dirty, but there are intermediate anchors you can access if you want to bail early. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 tons of sweet chimneys at smith but thats a little far. upper pitches up lions jaw are bitchen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted November 19, 2009 Share Posted November 19, 2009 Does Smith Count? If so, buy the guidebook and you'll find lots of great chimneys. Madrone has excellent O/W's, but I heard y'all screwed that place by trying to protect it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemp22 Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 like others have said - i think you're gonna have to drive a bit to find any long or sustained chimney routes....smith, leavenworth, etc. (ignoring the crown point "adventure" possibility) There are a few routes in the PDX metro area that offer at least a few feet of chimney-esque climbing: right gull, blownout, gandalf's P3, & 1 or 2 at carver...shoot from the hip & superstition (depending on how you do them) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 the first floor of the doernbacher children's hospital has several excellent, 20 foot high chimneny problems on pleasing faux-rock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lodestone Posted November 20, 2009 Author Share Posted November 20, 2009 Thanks everyone. Some new ones to me and some forgotten ones. Chad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 Here is Plaidman's (Scott's) TR on it. Looks pretty scary to me! http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=907095 You may want to read this for sure. Unless your girlfriend it into bushwhacking and an Alpine adventure I would not suggest the West Chimney on Crown Point. Unless you would like her to be your x-girlfriend or you are trying to find out if she is made of the right stuff. We did it on the hottest day last August. It may be a friggin freezer in there now. The climb is good but getting off the damn thing was a bitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 The PSU science bldg has an external stairway that goes 5 stories. Take slings to pro off the handrails as you cruise by. It's a wide ass stem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldiente Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 The building next to PRG has a 10" OW that has been lead and free soloed. Rumored to be hard... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 Pink on “sobriety crack “ in down town Flagstaff, AZ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lodestone Posted November 20, 2009 Author Share Posted November 20, 2009 You may want to read this for sure. Unless your girlfriend it into bushwhacking and an Alpine adventure I would not suggest the West Chimney on Crown Point. Unless you would like her to be your x-girlfriend or you are trying to find out if she is made of the right stuff. We did it on the hottest day last August. It may be a friggin freezer in there now. The climb is good but getting off the damn thing was a bitch. Thanks, after Steve posted your trip report I was pretty excited until I read it and watched the videos. My girlfriend is a little too much of a fair weather climber to deal with the West Chimney. By the way, Tim Olson has a new book out, Gorge Classic Climbs, that has some info and a topo for this route (although your trip report has much more information). The PSU science bldg has an external stairway that goes 5 stories. Take slings to pro off the handrails as you cruise by. It's a wide ass stem. I spent a lot of time in SB1 & SB2, I ought to remember that. I'll have to to wander back on campus. The building next to PRG has a 10" OW that has been lead and free soloed. Rumored to be hard... The building west of PRG? Interesting. Thanks everyone. Chad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 Pink on “sobriety crack “ in down town Flagstaff, AZ. Oh hey, that is SUCH a 1) chimney 2) close to Portland isn't it?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farrgo Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 There is a good chimney at Horsetheif Butte. From parking area it is located at basically the right corner on the parking lot side (i.e., walk to base of wall and go around the right to the corner). Maybe 5.6? Runout lead, but easy to drop a top rope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 The building next to PRG has a 10" OW that has been lead and free soloed. Rumored to be hard... The science building is getting a major (multi-year) overhaul/retrofit and is largely fenced off now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lodestone Posted November 20, 2009 Author Share Posted November 20, 2009 There is a good chimney at Horsetheif Butte. From parking area it is located at basically the right corner on the parking lot side (i.e., walk to base of wall and go around the right to the corner). Maybe 5.6? Runout lead, but easy to drop a top rope. Perfect, my GF really likes Horsethief Butte. I'd never noticed this climb but I see it now on the topo from Olson's book. Chad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan_forester Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 there's lots of loose rock in and around those chimneys on the west side of horsethief. use good judgement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 Nobody has mentioned the one at Broughtons on Hanging Gardens wall. My second climb ever! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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