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[TR] the roost - northeast face 9/13/2009


rat

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Trip: the roost - northeast face

 

Date: 9/13/2009

 

Trip Report:

hey swingers, lunger and i climbed it so you don't have to. don't be a wimpy, do 9 pitches plus some simul-climbing starting just right of the indistinct rib in mid-face and ending just left of it. go way out on 5 pitches of bushy galore and 4 of terrortainment. III, 5.9ish. "should clean up nicely with a little traffic."

 

Gear Notes:

nuts/cams to 3.5"

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given rolf's woefully inadequate TR, I will try to up the hype quotient. yeah, his backberry wasn't working, so we couldn't tweet the minutiae of our epic ascent, including helmet-cam footage of our bm's.

 

first, this is my favorite alpine rock climb in the Cascades all year.

 

The route we did on the NE Face of The Roost, "Fowl Play", is likely an FA because there's no one else stupid enough to try it. However, we were enticed by pics (e.g., Scurlock) that make it an attractive nuisance:

47645012.Roost04280534adj.jpg

And here's a shot I took after our ascent, route follows approx. left-hand skyline:

IMG_6937.JPG

Looking up at the climb in the wee hours, after a scenic and supercool bivy above the col between the ROost and Glee:

IMG_6913.JPG

pitch 2:

IMG_6916.JPG

pitch 4, brushy galore:

IMG_6918.JPG

 

nice views anyway:

IMG_6935.JPG

 

pitch 8 (crux) required terror control; impressive lead by ratweasel.

IMG_6923.JPG

 

looking down at our "climbing" route from top p. 9, haha:

IMG_6931.JPG

 

the route features overhanging tree pulling, the occasional dirt-mantling and less occasional gear, and even some steep fun face-climbing protected by excavated cracks. pure glee. as noted, should clean up nicely with more traffic--go get it!

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good one 'staafl.

 

pms, you called me out--i've not climbed any other alpine rock in the Cascades this year. did enjoy an opposite experience (clean rock, chill approach, civil company) on Whitney and Russell in July, but mostly just worked this summer.

 

even though the climbing could've been better, it's a beautiful area, and an enjoyable weekend jaunt.

more pics here: http://picasaweb.google.com/ewehrly/2009_09_12RoostNEFace?feat=directlink

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lunger doesn't climb unless its a badass FA. he's a BAAADDD MAN.

 

well it all looks pretty casual. congrats guys. i'm wondering if Rolf has downloaded the "I am T-Pain" iphone app yet? it has "rat" written all over it.

 

and Pete...even ulee understands the joy of suffering (it doesn't have to be fun to be fun, etc)

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