first ascent [TR] the roost - northeast face 9/13/2009

[rat]

Trip: the roost - northeast face

 

Date: 9/13/2009

 

Trip Report:

hey swingers, lunger and i climbed it so you don't have to. don't be a wimpy, do 9 pitches plus some simul-climbing starting just right of the indistinct rib in mid-face and ending just left of it. go way out on 5 pitches of bushy galore and 4 of terrortainment. III, 5.9ish. "should clean up nicely with a little traffic."

 

Gear Notes:

nuts/cams to 3.5"

[Pete_H]

I'll get right on it. Pic's?

[layton]

nice, that's the one I pointed out on top of Davis, right? Up Jay Creek drainage? Looks like a little replica of davis as I recall. Why did you go there? thanks for doing that

[Pete_H]

You might be waiting a while for a response, Rolf's I-Phone is broken.

[Blake]

You might be waiting a while for a response, Rolf's I-Phone is broken.

But I follow him on twitter. Rolf is WAY into that. Sorry about the poorly-drawn sheep on your car.

[lunger]

given rolf's woefully inadequate TR, I will try to up the hype quotient. yeah, his backberry wasn't working, so we couldn't tweet the minutiae of our epic ascent, including helmet-cam footage of our bm's.

 

first, this is my favorite alpine rock climb in the Cascades all year.

 

The route we did on the NE Face of The Roost, "Fowl Play", is likely an FA because there's no one else stupid enough to try it. However, we were enticed by pics (e.g., Scurlock) that make it an attractive nuisance:

And here's a shot I took after our ascent, route follows approx. left-hand skyline:

Looking up at the climb in the wee hours, after a scenic and supercool bivy above the col between the ROost and Glee:

pitch 2:

pitch 4, brushy galore:

 

nice views anyway:

 

pitch 8 (crux) required terror control; impressive lead by ratweasel.

 

looking down at our "climbing" route from top p. 9, haha:

 

the route features overhanging tree pulling, the occasional dirt-mantling and less occasional gear, and even some steep fun face-climbing protected by excavated cracks. pure glee. as noted, should clean up nicely with more traffic--go get it!

[dberdinka]

Looking through your gallery you certainly seem to have an affinity for the worst of cascades choss. Must say your North Face of Spectacled Butte looks like the crappiest route ever.

[Pete_H]

Well, he climbs with Rolf. He certainly isn't into it for the fun of it.

 

Fix you links bro!

[tanstaafl]

Nice pics, Team A. If you want I can direct you to an even brushier unfinished line Eric. I think it's just your style.

 

 

[pms]

will it also "clean up nicely with more traffic"?

[pms]

"this is my favorite alpine rock climb in the Cascades all year"

Lunger - What else is on this list? Loved your TR Mr. Rat.

[tanstaafl]

will it also "clean up nicely with more traffic"?

 

As long as the traffic carries a chainsaw, why yes, yes it will.

[lunger]

good one 'staafl.

 

pms, you called me out--i've not climbed any other alpine rock in the Cascades this year. did enjoy an opposite experience (clean rock, chill approach, civil company) on Whitney and Russell in July, but mostly just worked this summer.

 

even though the climbing could've been better, it's a beautiful area, and an enjoyable weekend jaunt.

more pics here: http://picasaweb.google.com/ewehrly/2009_09_12RoostNEFace?feat=directlink

[olyclimber]

lunger doesn't climb unless its a badass FA. he's a BAAADDD MAN.

 

well it all looks pretty casual. congrats guys. i'm wondering if Rolf has downloaded the "I am T-Pain" iphone app yet? it has "rat" written all over it.

 

and Pete...even ulee understands the joy of suffering (it doesn't have to be fun to be fun, etc)

[G-spotter]

That looks like it would be a clean, popular and solid route by Beacon standards

[dberdinka]

[ryanl]

nice to hear from you l-dog. I was wondering what you been up to....

[danhelmstadter]

looks like fun - nice work Easy, i hope your able to get in some more climbs before the snow starts flying.

Edited September 21, 2009 by danhelmstadter