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Posted

The last time I looked at TCIA statistics logging was listed as the #3 in terms of dangerous professions. Tree workers performing work including removals was listed as #5. I believe they don't seperate recreational workers from professionals.

 

In any case avoid companies with giant yellow page adds, names like AAAAAAA Tree Service, door to door salesmen, or a guy with a pickup + chainsaw + rottweiler.

Posted

You've got the right idea, but i'd really have to see the situation to provide a decent assessment.

 

 

The risk you take is making the backcut with that pressure already applied. If there is any heart-rot or insect damage on the inside of that tree, it could blow out/barber chair the back while your backcutting. A pretty serious situation if your right there.

 

Wedges might be a good idea, with the rope used just to stop it from falling back in case.

 

JL

Posted
You've got the right idea, but i'd really have to see the situation to provide a decent assessment.

 

 

The risk you take is making the backcut with that pressure already applied. If there is any heart-rot or insect damage on the inside of that tree, it could blow out/barber chair the back while your backcutting. A pretty serious situation if your right there.

 

Wedges might be a good idea, with the rope used just to stop it from falling back in case.

 

JL

 

yeah thanks for the head's up on tensioning; certainly thought about it and don't want to spring load it. eeeeasy pressure, slow on the back cut, wedges, and a close eye on the back cut opening. and notching like < so big tree doesn't want to kick the hinge out at half fall....

Posted
Wedges might be a good idea, with the rope used just to stop it from falling back in case.

Don't even think about doing it without at least two metal wedges, preferably three and a sledge versus regular hammer. This is where you ideally want a person cutting, one on the line tension, and one on the wedges.

Posted

indeed, fatso.

 

as far as wedges go, i'm thinking at least three to spread the load. and yeah 3 guys.

 

money? it's kinda fun really. i like puzzles like this. the money aint a biggie. i like challenges.

Posted

OMG ! I almost sprayed cider through my nose! :lmao: Porter, great find. You can see the tree leaning right towards the house...the woman doesn't see it, nor does the saw operator. No one gets hurt and they still have a place to sleep in while they consider this entire experience....

 

classic!

 

Kimmo, hope you get this on video and U-tube it for sure!!! Of course, yours will be flawless.

Posted

oh we'll see about the flawless part.

 

and yeah holy i gagged laughing at that vid. chainsaw stalls numerous times as tree binds in wrong direction "what's wrong with this damn..."

Posted
I want to get a vasectomy but its so expensive I'm thinking of doing it myself. Pretty simple, just snip snip, right? Opinions?

 

damn forgot to ask how your neutering went. got the skillz?

Posted (edited)

Two wedges would probably be just fine, but in a big tree I like to be able to 'steer' things a bit if I need to. You can start with regular redhead plastic felling wedges, but you're quickly going to need 2-3" of wedge height so you'll have to switch to steel splitting wedges right away and maybe even something like an Estwing Estwing E-5 Wedge for the center coup d'état wedge (which would require you to [progressively] move the side wedges closer to the hinge as well). Also, on a back lean I'd tend to bring the back cut off the horizontal 10-15 degrees (max) to make it easier to swing at the wedges. In the end, regardless of any other complicating factors, it's all in the hinge - be as precise as possible with your cuts and don't rush. A tree like this you want to bring down with the wedges - not the saw, so don't oversaw the back cut.

 

I usually recommend these as well:

 

0643090282.jpg

 

d624_12.JPG

 

And maybe get back to us with your saw specs, pictures from the three sides, and the lean / segment math (or here) on this tree...

Edited by JosephH
Posted

For those with felling experience greater than my own....is it wise to steer the tree by first trimming weight (large branches) on the opposite side from where you are hoping to drop it?

Posted
I want to get a vasectomy but its so expensive I'm thinking of doing it myself. Pretty simple, just snip snip, right? Opinions?

 

damn forgot to ask how your neutering went. got the skillz?

 

More importantly, how'd the logging operation go? After all your shit talking let's see the fruits of your excelsior strivings.

Posted

More importantly, how'd the logging operation go? After all your shit talking let's see the fruits of your excelsior strivings.

 

"more importantly"? i see where your priorities lie, missy.

 

i do believe the mounties are calling: put on yer muthafucking helmet!

Posted
gotta echo 530, and'll get a stihl 360 if need be. i loves me a nice chainsaw!

What bars...? Both of those saws are weak and are going to have short bars which will necessitate a more complicated cut which makes matters that much more difficult and dangerous. I'd really recommend scouting up a bigger saw with at least a 36" bar. Some thing on this order (Huskie 372xp, but with a 36" instead of that 28" bar) would be the minimum sort of deal I'd want to launch at this tree with:

 

zyakhe.jpg

 

Oh, and you want the chain absolutely razor sharp, preferably with a second sharp one on standby...

 

P.S. I edited that post above with more discussion and links to wedges...

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