Redpoint Tactics

[G-spotter]

This is probably a really dumb question but I don't do a lot of route seiging/redpointing/headpointing/whatever and I'd appreciate suggestions from those who do (ie. working a project into submission and finally leading it cleanly after many tries)

 

Let's say you have a project that is pretty tough for you that you have been working for a while.

 

There are several separate cruxes with individually hard moves.

 

After a whole lot of work you can do every move and you can link all the moves together on TR with no falls most of the time. Success is close.

 

You switch out of projecting mode (getting on the climb just to work the moves and linkage) and into sending mode (trying to redpoint).

 

Now say you set off on a redpoint try and fall off part way up.

 

Here's the question: is it more efficient to use this opportunity to work the moves some more and head on from the point you fell (or last bolt/piece of pro you are hanging on below that) to the top? Or once you are in redpoint mode and you've just blown on a redpoint attempt, should you lower off, pull the rope and immediately (or after a rest) give it another redpoint try from the ground?

 

Like I said, dumb question. My inclination is that since I'm trying to redpoint, and I already have the route pretty dialled, the ultimate redpoint will come faster if I lower off when I fall and then try it again quickly. But maybe there are those who find the opposite approach more effective?

[selkirk]

I'm not exactly a siege climber either, but

 

Why did you fall? Is it simply a blown sequence, or was there any mental/commitment issues doing it on lead? if it was just the sequence i'd lower off and go again. But if I was having any issues committing to the moves on lead or shifting from a TR headspace to a lead headspace, i'd say work the crux on lead a few times until it's dialed on lead. Then lower off and go for the redpoint.

[kevbone]

My inclination is that since I'm trying to redpoint, and I already have the route pretty dialled, the ultimate redpoint will come faster if I lower off when I fall and then try it again quickly.

 

 

You just answered your own question.

[el jefe]

selkirk's question is a good one. if you fell because you botched the sequence, then just pull the rope and try again.

 

i'll just add that in the switch from toprope to redpoint attempts there is usually new information that needs to be assimilated (e.g., hard clip).

 

a good tip is to get the finish really dialed even if it isn't the hardest part of the route. once you get through the cruxes you still need to seal the deal.

[marc_leclerc]

work routes from the top down before the red-point attempts.. it helps a lot. Just go from the last bolt/rest stance ect.. to the top then from one lower and so on. After that work on red pointing, pulling the rope after each attempt.

[dirtysloper]

up and downclimb your last send, then come back to your current project.

[Rad]

work routes from the top down before the red-point attempts.. it helps a lot. Just go from the last bolt/rest stance ect.. to the top then from one lower and so on. After that work on red pointing, pulling the rope after each attempt.

 

This is what I've read as well, and it makes good sense for reasons too verbose to include here. But how do you put it into practice? How do you get to the upper section of lead-only routes (which is most) without having climbed or french-freed the lower parts? I am a noob in this as well but would like to improve.

 

[NTM]

Rad, after having worked the route on TR or bolt to bolt on lead, then move towards this. One of the ways it helps is to break the route into sections and then train yourself physically and mentally to climb through each bit. Often, people will fall mid-crux time after time and there is a mental block that is created, i.e. "this crux is way too hard, no way im going to send this" when the truth is that you can do the moves.

I do virtually the same thing, but instead of going top down, I go to the last bolt before the place I am falling, rest, then climb through the sequence to the top

[RJRiha]

This is what I've read as well, and it makes good sense for reasons to verbose to include here. But how do you put it into practice? How do you get to the upper section of lead-only routes (which is most) without having climbed or french-freed the lower parts? I am a noob in this as well but would like to improve.

 

French free/batman/lever off bolts/free climb easy parts as necessary to get a top rope up.

[RuMR]

Dru...i think its generally best to always go to the anchor...at the very least its mileage...

[Drederek]

Yeah, go to the anchor, maybe even tr the part you muffed on the way down. Do you visualize the moves during your aerobic workout? It may be the brain getting tired along with the body.

[el jefe]

i don't go to the anchor if i felt good but botched the sequence. in that case i usually try to save the energy for the next try instead. however, if i felt like i failed because i didn't really know the moves well enough, then i go to the anchors climbing bolt to bolt and work on remembering my sequence. once i start trying to redpoint, i try to save my energy for redpoint efforts.

[Kimmo]

i don't go to the anchor if i felt good but botched the sequence. in that case i usually try to save the energy for the next try instead. however, if i felt like i failed because i didn't really know the moves well enough, then i go to the anchors climbing bolt to bolt and work on remembering my sequence. once i start trying to redpoint, i try to save my energy for redpoint efforts.

 

what he said.

 

if you are trying to rp quickly, it doesn't make sense to go to the anchors every time if you already have the thing wired; all you're doing is tiring yourself out for the next rp go. instead make sure you know what you did wrong, do the move if need be, then lower off and rest plenty. an hour of rest isn't too long, imo. if it's at all cold, you'll probably need a little rewarm, but more rest i think is way better than not enough.

 

sounds like you've done all the basics already, like broken the route down into sections in your mind (good rests and how to use them, where to chalk, maybe skipping certain unnecessary difficult clips, where to go fast vs slow etc etc).

[Kimmo]

the ultimate redpoint will come faster if I lower off when I fall and then try it again quickly.

 

don't try too quickly. make sure you rest plenty.

[bigwallben]

I would also recommend a full can of REDBULL. While drinking this liquid POWER you can see yourself sending...feel the victory of clipping the chains...sense the eye of the tiger taking over. Then, when you start shaking from the anticipation and all that sugar and caffeine, then, only then, you know its GO time.

 

Take a deep breath. Check your knot four times. Spit on your shoes and clean down to the rand. Have your blackberry opened up to 8a.nu... and then BLIGITY Skigdang!

 

Good luck.

[Kimmo]

uh oh. someone said to keep this guy away from the bottle.

[marc_leclerc]

I would also recommend a full can of REDBULL. While drinking this liquid POWER you can see yourself sending...feel the victory of clipping the chains...sense the eye of the tiger taking over. Then, when you start shaking from the anticipation and all that sugar and caffeine, then, only then, you know its GO time.

 

Take a deep breath. Check your knot four times. Spit on your shoes and clean down to the rand. Have your blackberry opened up to 8a.nu... and then BLIGITY Skigdang!

 

Good luck.

 

Powerthirst n00b!!

 

[video:youtube]v=qRuNxHqwazs

 

 

 

[Pete_H]

Redbull? You needs some SPARKS!

[olyclimber]

I would also recommend a full can of REDBULL. While drinking this liquid POWER you can see yourself sending...feel the victory of clipping the chains...sense the eye of the tiger taking over. Then, when you start shaking from the anticipation and all that sugar and caffeine, then, only then, you know its GO time.

 

Take a deep breath. Check your knot four times. Spit on your shoes and clean down to the rand. Have your blackberry opened up to 8a.nu... and then BLIGITY Skigdang!

 

Good luck.

 

shite..i live the bligity skigdang. what is the next up from that?

[Frenchy]

[bigwallben]

I would also recommend a full can of REDBULL. While drinking this liquid POWER you can see yourself sending...feel the victory of clipping the chains...sense the eye of the tiger taking over. Then, when you start shaking from the anticipation and all that sugar and caffeine, then, only then, you know its GO time.

 

Take a deep breath. Check your knot four times. Spit on your shoes and clean down to the rand. Have your blackberry opened up to 8a.nu... and then BLIGITY Skigdang!

 

Good luck.

 

shite..i live the bligity skigdang. what is the next up from that?

 

Bligity Badoooonga gnar!!