luvshaker Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 (edited) What have been the easiest routes to onsight for the grade, and the hardest route to send for the grade? Any grade, Trad too. Edited July 19, 2009 by luvshaker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJRiha Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 BBQ the pope looks like a harder one for the grade. This is more due to the bolting rather than the climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptrendler Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 bop 'til you drop seemed like an easier onsight, where as bad moon rising was way harder for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky_joe Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 BBQ Pope is way harder than 10b. But SYZ is was easier than 10b, also 9 Gallon is easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlag Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 This is just for 5.10 sport routes .10A- hard for grade(don't really know any sport) .10A- easy for the grade(Caffeine Free, Pop goes the Nubbin) .10B- hard for the grade(BBQ, Wedding Day, Iguana's on Elm St) .10B- easy for the grade(Bay of Pigs) .10C- hard for the grade(Ryan's Arete, Fish and Chips) .10C- easy for the grade(Manic Nirvana) .10D- hard for the grade(Hemp Liberation, Reason to Be, Powder up the Nose 5.10D- easy(Butterknife) just off the top of my head, i'm sure there's plenty more. JL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatthewS Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 A few more... These stand out as being pretty straightforward for the grade... Kunza Korner (10c) Moons of Pluto (10d) Blasphemy (11a) Wartley's Revenge (11b) Blackened (11c) And these seemed harder or have pretty unusual sequences for an onsight... Light on the Path (9) Calamity Jam (10c) Blue Light Special (11a) License to bolt (11b) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 (edited) anything in the Gorge that is rated 5.9 and 5.10 is harder than anything on tuft that is rated the same grade. Also explosive energy child seems hard for the grade, but of course Mr. Belskis told me it was 5.10b as I launched up it on lead. Edited July 20, 2009 by shapp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlag Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 I agree with all those posted for solid for the grade. And with all of Shapp's stuff too. That's funny as shit about EEC, that's stout and scary for 10D, let alone 10B. First time i did it i whipped on a tiny nut above the last bolt, almost hit me in the face. I didn't really get into the Gorge, as it's a whole different medium down there. JL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fgw Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 (edited) anything in the Gorge that is rated 5.9 and 5.10 is harder than anything on tuft that is rated the same grade maybe not in all cases. I thought that Wildfire is much easier than Pack Animal Direct for example (both 10b per Watts). Edited July 20, 2009 by fgw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 Hemp Liberation What a cool climb, but such a horrible bolting job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 anything in the Gorge that is rated 5.9 and 5.10 is harder than anything on tuft that is rated the same grade maybe not in all cases. I thought that Wildfire is much easier than Pack Animal Direct for example (both 10b per Watts). That is because one can actually put there fingers "in" wildfire. IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 wartleys is 11a in the new book Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crimper Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 Gotta second Hemp Liberation being a great piece of stone but with some terrible bolt placements; anyone who leads it will find out why. Kool Ranch Flavor gets an 11a in the supplement but seems at least a grade or two harder at the brief but burly crux. Left Wing (a newer bolted climb in the lower gorge) is pretty stout for 10b - but most aretes seem harder to me anyway. Cling On's second pitch was a serious alpine style 5-9. has anyone else been on that? ugh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 Got Kool Ranch Flavor gets an 11a Uh....I always thought it was 11.c. At least it is for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 that's just your wittle ego talkin'... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlag Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 OMG It's monumental, i agree with Kevbone. Great, now noyone will climb with me. JL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrygunJim Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Orgasmophoria ".10c" on the red wall. Great climb for 5.9, cool weird red rock and long. The first pitch Phantasmagoria is a pretty stout .10b edgefest though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wimsey Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 We (FA party) graded Orgasmophoria 10a. The 10c grade on Smithrock.com was a mistake that we tried to correct, unfortunately the 10c seems to have stuck. Jeff F. wanted to grade it 5.9 but we convinced him it was 10a. Certainly not harder than the first pitch though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 OMG It's monumental, i agree with Kevbone. Great, now noyone will climb with me. JL Warning!!!!!!! Serious spray/ name dropping about to happen…… I gave Lynn Hill a belay on Cool Ranch. She did not know the grade when climbing it. She thought it was 11.c. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 OMG It's monumental, i agree with Kevbone. Great, now noyone will climb with me. JL sickie baa Damn I need to find a new belayer in bend now. WTF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 i hear kevbone is available, as pinkie just got hitched... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 who the fuck sport climbs.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 i only sportclimb cuz there's never any pinks or kevboners around... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvshaker Posted July 22, 2009 Author Share Posted July 22, 2009 Chairman Moa's little red book was an easy onsight for the grade at 11a, but for some reason John Gualt line (next to Pack Animal)took me like 5 tries and working out the crux??? Ride the lightning 11b-two moves of freakin hard, and I got a rope burn. Vomit launch seemed pretty hard. I Almost Died....onsightable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrygunJim Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 We (FA party) graded Orgasmophoria 10a. The 10c grade on Smithrock.com was a mistake that we tried to correct, unfortunately the 10c seems to have stuck. Jeff F. wanted to grade it 5.9 but we convinced him it was 10a. Certainly not harder than the first pitch though. Wow, right from the horses' mouth. Thanks. Maybe one or two moves of .10a. cool position for sure. Loved that climb. Shapps point about the gorge is well taken. A friend and I were talking about Cruel Sister the other day, .10a? Couldn't even finish it on TR the first time. Def harder than Karate Crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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