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Day or two of rock this week?


RikRik

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Once again looking for a partner to hit something this week. Doesn't matter when or where. 5.8 - 5.10. Trad, sport, crag, multi, alpine, snow, glacier. Only thing i ask is for you to be generally honest about your abilities. A bit unnerving to get up on the Apron and find that your partner can't place a cam.

 

R.

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Don't want to trash anyone, but could have developed into a rather dangerous situation. No problem with being a novice 5.6-7 climber who wants to work on first trad leads, but don't tell someone you want to work on 5.10a-d leads and set off on a multi-pitch climb.

 

So his name is kainsacad or Mehrdad. A nice guy and all right to travel with, but leave the ego at home.

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Apron = Squamish = normal to soft ratings.

 

So, i have received two other reports (horror stories) concerning this guy. As one said "An accident waiting to happen." Strange thing is is that this guy really thinks he can climb. After falling and being hauled up each pitch (at least my fore arms got a work out pulling him up) he still insists that he feels comfortable. Throughout the climb there is a constant litany of "up rope, up rope" at each and every step. Gear belays - "What's that?"

 

Even at Skaha this guy would still be a 5.6-7 climber max and definetly not a leader.

 

Just going on about this because he is really going to get someone else hurt or killed. Needs to stick to single pitch or top ropes for now.

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i say you all should concern yourselves with yourselves......

 

this person you speak of may be just starting out and possibly overstated his abilities. but what good is it to publicly trash him???

 

we have all made mistakes, do you want someone to call you on yours and then drag your name through the mud....

 

i didn't think so

 

thanks for being nice! [smile]

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quote:

Originally posted by RikRik:

Apron = Squamish = normal to soft ratings.

 

So, i have received two other reports (horror stories) concerning this guy. As one said "An accident waiting to happen." Strange thing is is that this guy really thinks he can climb. After falling and being hauled up each pitch (at least my fore arms got a work out pulling him up) he still insists that he feels comfortable. Throughout the climb there is a constant litany of "up rope, up rope" at each and every step. Gear belays - "What's that?"

Even at Skaha this guy would still be a 5.6-7 climber max and definetly not a leader.

 

Just going on about this because he is really going to get someone else hurt or killed. Needs to stick to single pitch or top ropes for now.

I am not meaning to be a bitch or anything... but why doesn't someone take this person under their wing and mentor him??? Sounds like he wants to learn... Maybe some one could help him out, teach him, and it would save us all alot of unwanted bad press. I understand that mentoring a climber is hard work, and often times, that person doesn't turn out to be the partner you wanted, and it also slows down your own work on your own projects... but it is nice.

 

just an idea

 

[ 07-23-2002, 10:32 AM: Message edited by: sk ]

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I hope everybody by now has discovered what type of individual RikRik is. No wonder he has a pibull by him all the time. Last week I was the only response to his ad now he is raising hell to advertise his Tom Cruise status. My ass son of a bitch cock sucker. You forgot cancelling the snake unilaterally and you were going to rap down at the end of the first pitch of Saint Vitus until I encouraged you to keep climbing. I am preparing a comprehensive report of our trip with this moran for those who are interested.

 

This guy has an agenda other than climbing.

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rikrik you certainly are an ass hole bitch. You are a constant whiner. You just got yourself a partner for two days. You or any body else should not make the assumption that an offer you get is from a perfect climber. Come down the sky we all struggle to climb. Climbing is an extreme sport that is why we have rope and pro. If you do not have the heart quit or hire a guide who can tell you which holds exactly to use.

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A warning to anybody who may become a partner for kirkir:

 

Do not take him to an area he has never climbed before otherwise he will chicken out. Unless you have climbed the area before several times and know the holds by their coordinates. It seems his specialty is baker. Take him there to enjoy. He is not a frontier man. He is a follower. Until his friend comes back from travelling and he solves his problems with his long term girlfriend anybody who climbs with him should protect himseld from back stabbing by this moran.

 

By the way anybody who has climbed with me before an has a complaint email it or post it, If I do not hear from you it means you do not exist or you are as chicken heart as your man; kirkir.

 

Hey folks this is a free website for climberd to meet. It is a BLIND MEETING. You did not like it shut up and go some where else. Suck up your negativity.

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Attitude:

 

Thank you for the correction. I will have problem spelling such words due to the fact I use them very infrequently; only for those who ask for it. Despite the spirit was understood.

 

The terminus of a glacier is spelled MORAINE. Look it up and learn your mother language better.

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Wow - two pages on this subject. Enough is enough, but wanted to get my dog's picture up on the site.

 

eric - wasn't going to trash him, but when i started getting reports (now up to three) on this guy, general safety is a bit more important than tactfulness. I got no problem going and doing 5.7 single pitch routes for a day or two - just like getting out and can learn something wherever. But this guy just ain't receptive to mentoring. He just wouldn't admit he was uncomfortable with something even after repeated falls.

 

Here is an edited excerpt from one email i received: "just thought i'd add my horror story to your list. Climbed with him ... and the cruxes were over his head, even though he talked confidently about doing it. He tried to lead one crux, fell about 10 times and finally lowered down and said it was too tough for him. It was really no problem for a 5.9. He got to it following me and grabbed the rope and hauled his way up that way. This was his way to get through many of the semi-difficult parts...

 

Constantly throughout the day, I kept hearing up rope even if I was holding him on a tight belay. As soon as he would move, he would say up rope. After awhile I was very uncomfortable with him belaying me and was tempted to head back down. But I figured I could pretty much solo the rest of it, if I had too. He even got off route about 2 or 3 times when he was leading."

 

Mehrdad: as far as wanting to retreat - yeah sure. I was afraid for my future continued existence on this plane. And yeah i run it out a bit on 5.4-7 areas, but on a hand crack that is fairly uniform in size gear conservation for harder sections is the way to go. And how is it that you were pointing out the holds to me when you didn't lead a single pitch?

 

Actually pitbulls come in rather handy. Ever in a crowded area, get up early, chain the dog to the route, and then go back to bed for awhile.

 

Happy climbing all.

 

[ 07-23-2002, 02:04 PM: Message edited by: RikRik ]

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