Jump to content

Day or two of rock this week?


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic



If we ever go climbing together and you find out how much I suck, please don't tell everyone on this web site, ok.


I guess the moral (not moron) of the story is:

planning to climb the Apron with someone you have never met might be a bad idea. But blameing him for your error in judgement is immature. Hold yourself acountable for your own actions, you made the first mistake. No need to make other people feel like shit.


No offense intended Kainsaid(sp?), just trying to make a point. Cheer up. [big Drink]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just making a point of clarification, here. What I see from RikRik's posts is that Mehrdad misrepresented his abilities (i.e., saying he was a 5.10 climber, but struggling up a "soft" 5.9). From what I've read, this seems to be RikRik's real bitch. Moral of this story: be honest about your abilities with potential partners found on cc.com.


Lambone, you missed the point (again). You suck.


Greg W

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Greg W,

That may be true, but so what. It's naive to believe that people will be honest about their climbing abilities. I've found that climbing is a lot like fishing, or anything else in that respect. Also, jsut be cause you have ticked off some big, or hard routes doesn't mean shit. We took a guy to Nepal who had claimed to have done many impressive mountains in south America. Turns out he had been babysitted on all of those routes. One night he actualy asked me if he should go take a piss or not...


Hell, my climbing ability changes daily. some times I'm feeling totaly solid on granite 11a and some times the 9's scare the shit out of me...its all a state of mind.


Knowing your partner is important when getting on a serious route, that's all I'm tryin to say. It's never good to make ambitious assumtions when dealing with a long climb and unfamiliar partner. A team is only as strong as its weakest link, and if you fail, is only fair to blame the team, not your partner.


This is something that many failures on big routes has taught me.


You're point is also well taken, modesty is worth it's weght in gold.


[ 07-23-2002, 03:32 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think it's about being modest. I think you have to be honest. I have never allowed someone to HOIST me past a crux, at least not so far. I try to climb within my limit unless I am on top rope and learning a new skill. or just playing. I know what I can do even on a bad day. Granted I have not been on a multi pitch do or die situation yet... but realy if you are there wouldn't it be better to aid the climb??? Any way, developing a climbing partnership takes time, and you should start small.IMHO [Wink]

Link to comment
Share on other sites


i'm not sure that i agree with you. i don't think honesty is that important. obviously you shoulnd lie and say you've done something that you haven't. But telling someone what you CAN do is a hole different story. How dooes one gauge what they can or cant do?


Lets say you (honestly) tell your soon to be partner that you have never climbed a 5.10. Does that mean you can't do the climb? Or that you shouldn't try? How will you ever get better? How would you ever know? For that matter, lets say that you honestly tell them that you have climbed many 5.10's. Does that mean that the climb is in the bag? Honesty is irrelevantt in these circumstances, you never know what you can or can't do.


My first time up El cap was with my one of my best friends. He learned to rock climb with trad gear that spring. I knew him well, I knew what kind of person he was. His ability wasn't important in that circumstance, like I said it was all in the state of mind, he wanted it as bad as I did and thats all that matered. I was willing to commit to a 30 pitch route with a total newbie, because I knew him, and I had never met anyone with as much drive and commitment. and in my opinion those qualities are what make a good climber. Technical ability comes second. But without some modesty you are bound to get you, and your partner into trouble.


Say you can and you might die, say you can't and you'll never know if you could...it's kind of a catch 22 that way.


[ 07-23-2002, 03:55 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Saying that haven't done something yet doesn't mean you can't do it. But I would want to know if someone I was climbing with had never belayed from the top... climbed a 5.10 done a multi pitch. truth is important. And as you just proved with your storey, so is knowing someone [Wink] Frankly I would rather have an epic with my husband or my best friend, than a stranger. you knew what you were getting into with your friend in the valley, that gave you an advantage. Had he been someone you did not know who claimed to have done the route already, or knew he had the skills but did not, the outcome would not have been so nice. take it easy 'bone [big Grin]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wouldn't someone who is modest be understating their abilities? Not sure what that has to do with it, except to help keep you from going over your head with a new partner? Seems that if you are climbing with someone for the first time, in a dangerous situation where serious injuries could happen if there's a f**k up (multi-pitch, trad vs TR), then honesty is of paramount importance. Talk about experience and motivation before things get sketch. I get pretty pissed whenever someone fronts abilities they don't have in any discipline - in one where I could get killed especially. That said, I'd love to work on my 5.7 trad leads, 'cause right now I suck. Honestly. Any takers?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lambone - climbing ain't fishing. If someone on this site dies because this guy says he is comfortable with hanging belays and gear (made sure of this before we started on the main pitches), but has no concept of gear anchors (was truly shocked when he reached the first belay and there was no bolts) - what then? Is that all part of the game of climbing? Screw that - would rather appear petty on this site and possibly save someone's legs, arms, or neck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



I responded to rikrik’s ad and offered him the following by email:


Climbing the Snake; 5.9 on Saturday and short single pitch 5.10a routes on Sunday in Squamish, which he accepted. His experience in Squamish according to him was Diedre only which he did not like. I had climbed Diedre, Sparrow and half of the Unfinished Symphony that includes two 10a pitches all with climbers from cc.com. I had expressed my abilities to him very clearly.


At the start of the Snake there were two parties ahead of us. He did not want to wait; his excuse was that the first party, which was a male and a female, were too slow. It seemed the man was instructing the woman how to climb so it was going to take too much time. Although I encouraged him to start to climb hoping to pass those groups with their permission he constantly refused. He started insisting on climbing in The Smoke Bluffs.


When a party of two showed up looking for Saint Vitus Dance. All of a sudden he untied the rope and said he wanted to climb The Saint Vitus(5.9) because there was only one party there. How he made this interpretation I do not know. He refused to accept my explanation that on a weekend day like that almost every popular route on the Apron would be over crowded. I went along with his choice since the grading was same as Snake.


At the beginning of the route we found a party of three getting ready to climb. By mistake we had ended on Saint Vitus Direct which has a short 5.10a corner pitch. If we had done our homework we would have known that we did not have to climb this 5.10a because there was a simple hike to the Baseline Ledge. It was my call and I believed I could climb it but I fell twice under the crux. I had installed six pros up to that point and the very last one caught my fall twice. This is the proper application of rope and pro. Who can claim he has learned rock climbing without falling? Then I asked to be lowered and when he expressed feeling in danger I asked him IF HE WANTED TO QUIT; he said NO. On the Baseline Ledge while waiting for a party of two to climb he got impatient again and got the idea that we could climb The Vector (5.8), which starts on the same ledge. I asked him if he had 4 or 5 pieces of pro 3-4 inch as the guidebook calls out for. He said yes but I could see he did not; he had left his big pros in his car. He was about to fall at the crux of the 1st pitch the second climber of the party ahead of us at the belay point directed him which holds to use. When I got there he asked me if I wanted to continue to climb which I told him "yes; we are here to climb". At the crux of the third pitch, which is a vertical crack, he spent a lot of time whining that he always had problem with vertical cracks. He aided it eventually. We forgot prior to the climb to place an order with the Almighty God to create a route that can change momentarily as we wish so we can have a pleasant climb similar to driving down a scenic road!!??


As a partner I encouraged this guy all the way up and tried to help him accomplish the climb. As I planted positivity he planted negativity. He has a very inadequate rack. Most of his placements were passive chucks several in a row. He does not even know how to communicate once at the belay station. He was also upset that the rock was very rough and scratched his hands and he was going to develop scabs on his skin??!!


Having said all the facts that climbing and grading are inexact sciences and maximum athletic abilities change day by day what remains important is how motivated and determined one is to achieve the goal and improve his skills. I learn by trial and error with a safe approach, in other words I put climbing safety devices into proper and real use. I am not afraid to take a fall although it is not the goal. This is how I evaluate myself and then make improvements. Unfortunately I do not have the luxury of taking climbing courses spending several thousand dollars so I look to find a source like cc.com. Those who look to get themselves a clean climb like driving down a highway cannot be in the same league as I am.


rikrik was an impatient and a hectic climber with unstable thinking. If he suffered during our climb it was mainly due to his disrupting the preset plans. When he was given an option to quit at the right time he refused. But later into the climb he started being destructive.


He either is a nervous individual with agenda(s) other than climbing or he has a character flaw in his social behavior. He must have a history with cc.com that I am not aware of. I remember that few weeks ago when I had just signed onto the site I saw a posting with similar subject. I did not pay attention to the member name. If anybody has extra time please try to locate it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For all those who skipped reading through that babble, here are the highlights...



Originally posted by kainsacad:



I had installed six pros up to that point and the very last one caught my fall twice. This is the proper application of rope and pro.


Most of his placements were passive chucks several in a row.


I learn by trial and error with a safe approach, in other words I put climbing safety devices into proper and real use.


Those who look to get themselves a clean climb like driving down a highway cannot be in the same league as I am.


I don't want to get in the middle of this, but I couldn't resist.


Climb on kainsacad, and don't let the bad ones get you down, good days out are sure to follow. Bad partners come and go, but the good ones last forever.


For more information on proper and real chuckcraft, cunsult Royal Robbins' manual, "The art of Chuckcraft" I think Matt has a copy.


Spray and be sprayed upon my friend...hey, are you that guy from the Billings Montana, the one who endured bloody feet on the Granite Peak expidition?


[ 07-23-2002, 11:26 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey you whiner; kirkir:


If you moran learn how to communicate while climbing no one will have to scream " up rope". Otherwise you day dream at the measley belay you have setup with rope running free down the slope. You also need to learn to say "off belay" once you are anchored otherwise your belayer will think you are still climbing. You also need to upgrade your measely rack to have enough protection. Do not forget to put in a protection as soon as you start climbing. If your first pro is 20 feet above the belay point if you take a fall you either end up on the ledge or your fucking ass will hit the head of the belayer. Probably some one like you with no self esteem will not mind ripping his ass on a helmet. You also need to learn not to steal your partner's worthless sling and claiming that you have lost a cam. May be you shoved it down your stinky ass when you were thinking hard how to back stab climbing partners.


kirkir all this circus is about you wanting to express your tom cruise status, impressing others and demoralizing them. Fuck your miserable character. Even a powerful environment like mountains cannot improve a fuck head cock sucker like you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



turn off your computer and go outside. take 10 deep breaths and enjoy the sunshine. your point has been heard. you are making yourself look like a wanker.


according to me(no one) you both suck.


as rodchester sez: "have a nice day!"



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...