markwebster Posted July 6, 2009 Posted July 6, 2009 On my first xmas in jtree back in 82 I watched John free solo left ski track on intersection rock. I would have felt safe on his shoulders, he looked that steady. Still, free soloing is a deadly sport. Perhaps this will serve as a warning to some of the solo artists out there and save some lives. I'm ashamed to admit I've done a bit of it myself, but back in my twenties when I thought I was invincible. I'd like to think I'm older and wiser now. I guess John thought he still had it going on. Too many good climbers have died lately. May he rest in peace. Quote
EWolfe Posted July 7, 2009 Author Posted July 7, 2009 Why is my original Post the seventh response, even though it shows me as the author of the thread? Nice time for shenanigans Quote
Raindawg Posted July 7, 2009 Posted July 7, 2009 Why is my original Post the seventh response, even though it shows me as the author of the thread? Nice time for shenanigans What? You want some sort of special kudos for being the first to announce a death on a climbing web-site??? Sorry, pal. This time it ain't about YOU. LIVE with it. Quote
el jefe Posted July 7, 2009 Posted July 7, 2009 On my first xmas in jtree back in 82 I watched John free solo left ski track on intersection rock. I would have felt safe on his shoulders, he looked that steady. Still, free soloing is a deadly sport. Perhaps this will serve as a warning to some of the solo artists out there and save some lives. I'm ashamed to admit I've done a bit of it myself, but back in my twenties when I thought I was invincible. I'd like to think I'm older and wiser now. I guess John thought he still had it going on. Too many good climbers have died lately. May he rest in peace. bachar lived according to his rules, not yours, mark. give the judgmental shit a rest sometime, eh? Quote
rob Posted July 7, 2009 Posted July 7, 2009 The dude loved climbing. He got to climb for the rest of his life, just like he wanted to. WIN Quote
Off_White Posted July 7, 2009 Posted July 7, 2009 Why is my original Post the seventh response, even though it shows me as the author of the thread? Nice time for shenanigans It's because I merged your thread, the second one started on the subject, with the earlier thread Bill Coe started in the Rockclimbing forum. Because I moved his thread onto yours in this forum, it retained your title, but because Bill started his thread before you did, his post predates yours. Make sense now? It seemed to me that we should only have the one thread. Sorry if you feel slighted. Quote
EWolfe Posted July 7, 2009 Author Posted July 7, 2009 Sorry - I am just starting to look at the elephant in the room (12-YO son), and feeling a little pissed as well as sad. Thanks for the clarification, Off. Sad times all around for climbers this year - please make it stop. Quote
Raindawg Posted July 7, 2009 Posted July 7, 2009 Still, free soloing is a deadly sport. Name a "sport" where someone hasn't died? Perhaps this will serve as a warning to some of the solo artists out there and save some lives. Yah...maybe if John Bachar had listened to your advice, he'd still be alive, but then again, he wouldn't be John Bachar. Stay at home, sit on the couch, watch Oprah with a plate of bon-bons, and you won't die free-soloing...but maybe you'll keel over from a heart-attack. I'm ashamed to admit I've done a bit of it myself, but back in my twenties when I thought I was invincible. I'd like to think I'm older and wiser now. Bachar was almost 52 years old and CHOSE to free-solo for decades and he certainly could do so infinitely better than you or I. It ain't got to do with age and wisdom. It has to do with experience, confidence and exceptional ability. I guess John thought he still had it going on. He still DID have it going on and there are plenty of other climbers far older who are playing the climbing game hard. Quote
markwebster Posted July 7, 2009 Posted July 7, 2009 Hey Don, thanks for picking my logic apart. Good points all. I think you and I were there together when we saw Bachar on Left Ski Track. He was an amazing climber, and an inspiration to many of us back then. Still, I think his son and his future grandchildren will have some days when they will wish he hadn't chosen to live, and die by the sword. It's great to have a famous and inspirational father, but a father who is alive is pretty cool too. I'm perfectly aware that this dangerous sport may kill me someday if I am careless, but using a rope is my way to stack the odds in my favor, and make it more likely I'll live to see my grandchildren. Life is good, could we all just be a little more careful? Quote
Off_White Posted July 7, 2009 Posted July 7, 2009 Tyrus Bachar, starting his own thread on Supertopo: Dude I'm soo sad right now my dad is dead he fell of of the dike wall. I knew it was a bad idea to go soloing today. I knew it. Tyrus & John, Bachar photo via Simon King, posted on Supertopo. This breaks my heart. This is a high profile name brand accident, but the same pain and emotion is repeated around every climbing death you hear about. Quote
Off_White Posted July 7, 2009 Posted July 7, 2009 I was just looking at some of Phil Bard's iconic photos of Bachar soloing. I don't wanna pirate them here, but this link will take you there. Quote
TMO Posted July 7, 2009 Posted July 7, 2009 (edited) This really saddens me AND pisses me off!! It just doesn't seem right... From "High Lonesome" by John Long; "He completely dominated the cliff with his grace and confidence. He never rattled, never lost control, and you knew if he ever got killed climbing it wouldn't be his fault. It would be a gross transgression proving climbing was foolish and all wrong. You'd sell all your gear and curse God for the rest of your life- on asthetic, not moral grounds". Edited July 7, 2009 by TMO Quote
billcoe Posted July 8, 2009 Posted July 8, 2009 Damn that man can write! Ivan could keep up with Largo if he could just work on his spelling:-) ...From "High Lonesome" by John Long; "He completely dominated the cliff with his grace and confidence. He never rattled, never lost control, and you knew if he ever got killed climbing it wouldn't be his fault. It would be a gross transgression proving climbing was foolish and all wrong. You'd sell all your gear and curse God for the rest of your life- on asthetic, not moral grounds". This captures Bachar and many of our feelings so right on the money. Quote
RuMR Posted July 9, 2009 Posted July 9, 2009 I had tears in my eyes when i read Tyrus's thread...No judgement, but kids are one reason to scale back certain things...just devastating... Quote
catbirdseat Posted July 9, 2009 Posted July 9, 2009 There is an autographed poster on the wall at Rockreation, Costa Mesa. It says, "always use a rope", John Bachar. Quote
markwebster Posted July 9, 2009 Posted July 9, 2009 I had tears in my eyes when i read Tyrus's thread...No judgement, but kids are one reason to scale back certain things...just devastating... I agree, you'd have to have a heart of stone not to feel his pain. All the worlds most famous climbers are greiving and wrote back to that poor kid on that board. So many people knew John. I'm not judging either, it's a free country. But I will do everything I can to not put my kids through that. I've really enjoyed having my dad around as I've got older. He's not famous, will never make it on the cover of a magazine and I disagree with him on many things, but he has been a rock. Always willing to babysit or take us out to dinner, or out in his canoe...in his eighties now and still married to the love of his life. Quote
Pete_H Posted July 9, 2009 Posted July 9, 2009 Kid's got the whole climbing community as his dad now. Quote
olyclimber Posted July 9, 2009 Posted July 9, 2009 I just got this in email...I thought it to be a touch odd...but whatever. Dear Fellow Climber, On behalf of the climbing community I would like to ask that you go to the White House website and request a letter of condolence from President Obama to Tyrus, John Bachar's son. Please also send this message out to everyone you can think of. If enough of us ask, we might see the letter, which would be great. Contacting the President is easy. Here is how: Go to: http://www.whitehouse.gov/contact For subject, click "other." Then write in the request. As an example, here is what I wrote: "Mr. President, I write to ask that you offer a letter of condolence to Tyrus Bachar, the 12-year-old son of John Bachar. John Bachar died in an unroped rock-climbing accident on Sunday, July 5, outside his home of Mammoth Lakes, CA. Bachar, 52, was the leading climber of his generation, and perhaps of all time. He was an inspiration and iconic figure. It is fair to say that he was the Muhammad Ali of rock climbing. Bacar’s iron-clad ethics and firm stance on the environment exemplified America’s core values. A note from you would mean a lot to his son, and to the climbing community." Thank you for pitching in. Duane Raleigh Publisher from Rock and Ice newsletter Quote
Lowell_Skoog Posted July 9, 2009 Posted July 9, 2009 Kid's got the whole climbing community as his dad now. It takes a village, sure. But a village is not the same as a real father. Quote
Lowell_Skoog Posted July 9, 2009 Posted July 9, 2009 I just got this in email...I thought it to be a touch odd...but whatever. Dear Fellow Climber, On behalf of the climbing community I would like to ask that you go to the White House website and request a letter of condolence from President Obama to Tyrus, John Bachar's son. Please also send this message out to everyone you can think of. If enough of us ask, we might see the letter, which would be great. Contacting the President is easy. Here is how: Go to: http://www.whitehouse.gov/contact For subject, click "other." Then write in the request. As an example, here is what I wrote: "Mr. President, I write to ask that you offer a letter of condolence to Tyrus Bachar, the 12-year-old son of John Bachar. John Bachar died in an unroped rock-climbing accident on Sunday, July 5, outside his home of Mammoth Lakes, CA. Bachar, 52, was the leading climber of his generation, and perhaps of all time. He was an inspiration and iconic figure. It is fair to say that he was the Muhammad Ali of rock climbing. Bacar’s iron-clad ethics and firm stance on the environment exemplified America’s core values. A note from you would mean a lot to his son, and to the climbing community." Thank you for pitching in. Duane Raleigh Publisher from Rock and Ice newsletter Tyrus doesn't need more messages from distant grown-ups. He needs a loving adult to be right there with him. I've skimmed the threads over at supertopo and I keep wondering who he has right there. It's just weird for a 12-year-old kid to be engaging in a long distance relationship with hundreds of adults that he doesn't know. I pray that there is somebody close who is helping him. Quote
Bosterson Posted July 9, 2009 Posted July 9, 2009 Why would getting a letter from Obama mean anything to Tyrus? And why would Obama pay any attention to to something like this? (Isn't he dealing with G8 meetings, the economy, or something more important?) Duane Raleigh should go back to turning Rock & Ice into a J. Crew advertisement, or whatever it is he's been doing since he took the magazine over. As for the rest of us, we should be seriously considering (a la John Long) whether climbing is nothing but pointless folly... Quote
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