spotly Posted June 22, 2009 Posted June 22, 2009 Trip: Prusik Peak - West Ridge Date: 6/21/2009 Trip Report: I was going to climb Prusik Peak last week when no permits were required but the forecast didn't look promising. Brian and I decided to give it another shot Saturday so we packed our gear and headed to the trailhead Friday after work. We threw out the bivy bags and tried to get a few hours sleep before starting but the folks next to us decided to stay up all night slamming their doors - ah, TH camping at its finest. We hit the trail about 4:15 and set a good pace to Colchuck Lake. As we headed up Aasgard, we kept an eye on the weather. Clouds seemed to surround the Enchantments but were being held at bay by Dragontail and Little Annapurna. We kept our fingers crossed as we headed down the consolidated snow slopes then up to Prusik Pass. I was surprised to see just one tent in the upper Enchantments and not a soul around anywhere. Aasgard Guard Lots of goats out Talisman Lake Once at the base of the route, we were having a hard time figuring out where to stash the extra pack and gear so we shoved it under the balanced rock and put in some rocks to hopefully keep any critters at bay. Balance Rock and base of climb First few pitches or one long one Getting ready I linked the first two pitches together and topped out on the ridge but with a tunnel between me and the crux slab - guess I went up a little early? While I belayed Brian up, a goat started rummaging around under the balanced rock. I screamed and made faces to no avail so eventually decided to rain down some condemnation. He scurried along. I worried. Anyhoo, Brian made it up and continued on through the tunnel (barely fit - ha) then he set up a good anchor below the crux slab. Brian arrives on ridge Tunnel on ridge to crux slab. Off route? Setting an anchor I clipped the crappy piton then tip-toed up and over, wondering if that could truely be the crux. Seemed much easier than the second pitch. From the top of the slab, I went towards the south face and followed a horzontal crack to the butt-scoot section. Looked like a person could step down the north side to avoid the ride but it was all good. Brian arrived at the belay then scrambled up the benches on the north side, setting one piece where it was kinda dicey then belayed me up to a large bench. There was a small vertical finger crack in a corner on the right (west) end so I started up that. The crack had good placements and was quite fun though a little thin on the fingers lower down. It ended on another bench where I found a right trending flake off to the left. The flake had bomber hands but no feet and placing a piece without my feet slipping took a little effort. At the top of the pitch I found a chimney that looked pretty good but rope drag was suck so I brought Brian up. We didn't know if this was the 5.8 chimney or the 5.4 but couldn't find any blind corners to the right so Brian headed up. It was a short chimney which took no pro. Brian climbed it by squirming inside, I found a few small face holds on the outside. Brian enjoying the exposure Me tagging the summit Brian tagging the summit We couldn't find a register so just sat around enjoying the views for half an hour. The Lost World The Enchantments The raps went well but the rope stuck on the last one. Hard pulling got it unstuck. We did the short traverse back to the base of the route in rock shoes. There was one small patch of snow near the base that was easily avoidable. We arrived just in time to find Mr. Marmot finishing off the last of my electrolyte tablets. The trip back up to Aasgard was easy but we were beat by the time we reached the trail at the end of the lake. The hike back to the trailhead went on forever. Brian made it into his bivy but I just laid down face first in the middle of the parking area. We got a few hours of quality sleep before heading out. Easy slog back to Aasgard Easy slog back to Aasgard Ick Glad we finally got this one in. Excellent setting; great rock. Gear Notes: Cams .3 to 2 Nuts Brought ice ax - didn't need Brought crampons - didn't need Approach Notes: Consolidated snow with a few sections of trail through the Enchantments Quote
The Cascade Kid Posted June 22, 2009 Posted June 22, 2009 siiiiiick. are there rap bolts or were you just slinging things? Quote
ivan Posted June 22, 2009 Posted June 22, 2009 now that's an awesome fucking picture - you tweak it any? Quote
spotly Posted June 22, 2009 Author Posted June 22, 2009 (edited) No bolts. Webbing set perfect for single rope raps. (ADDED): Actually one bolt on top. The only thing I did to the pic was adjust the levels slightly. On top of everything else going right, we actually had perfect lighting Edited June 22, 2009 by spotly Quote
mzvarner Posted June 22, 2009 Posted June 22, 2009 sweeeeet... didi you reserve permits or do the "loto" thing. Quote
denalidave Posted June 22, 2009 Posted June 22, 2009 Sweeet, can't wait to go there later this summer! Awesome pics!!! Quote
olyclimber Posted June 22, 2009 Posted June 22, 2009 sweeeeet... didi you reserve permits or do the "loto" thing. if you climb it car to car you don't need a permit. great job! thanks for the TR. Quote
toproper Posted June 22, 2009 Posted June 22, 2009 nice TR, great pics. instead of tunneling, I think I went climbers left , down and around that formation. Quote
LostCamKenny Posted June 22, 2009 Posted June 22, 2009 Looks awesome... Headed that way this summer. Nice TR! Thanks! Cheers Quote
tazz Posted June 22, 2009 Posted June 22, 2009 (edited) Hey Tim, that prusik shot sucks, could have found a nicer place to go with rain and clouds ya know. Sheesh it is so ugly there. Edited June 22, 2009 by tazz Quote
spotly Posted June 22, 2009 Author Posted June 22, 2009 I know. The ice in the water wasn't melted in the correct shape to get the tip of the peak in the reflection. I had a tantrum and almost called it quits right there Quote
tazz Posted June 22, 2009 Posted June 22, 2009 (edited) oh, pick it apart will ya! One of the best shot I have ever seen of prusik. Even kicks the larch seasons ass! Edited June 22, 2009 by tazz Quote
112 Posted June 22, 2009 Posted June 22, 2009 Nice job Tim! I wish I could have tagged along for that one. Quote
denalidave Posted June 25, 2009 Posted June 25, 2009 So, can you do the raps with one 60 meter or one 70 meter rope or should I bring the double 8mm x 60 meter ropes? Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted June 25, 2009 Posted June 25, 2009 So, can you do the raps with one 60 meter or one 70 meter rope or should I bring the double 8mm x 60 meter ropes? one 60 is fine Quote
denalidave Posted June 25, 2009 Posted June 25, 2009 So, can you do the raps with one 60 meter or one 70 meter rope or should I bring the double 8mm x 60 meter ropes? one 60 is fine Thanks!! Quote
TRbetaFlash Posted June 29, 2009 Posted June 29, 2009 Nice TR, I love that route. That last pic is EPIC too. Is there a register anywhere up there? I'd be willing to drag one up there just because they're so fun. Quote
pindude Posted June 29, 2009 Posted June 29, 2009 Excellent photos and TR, Tim. I love that last one too. But if this is how you tag summits, I have to see some more of your summit shots. Me tagging the summit Quote
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