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Posted
i think your above list simply indicates you are a sport climbing prodigy, whilst sucking at trad....blah, blah, blah, blah

 

There's a seat waiting for you right next to DeChristo. Now go climb back into your cubicle and make some money for the boss, li'l feller.

 

 

Posted
gee rainy, should be an easy wager for you and all since modern sport climbing routes are all so massively overrated!! ;)

 

gee RumRy, I could really care less if sport grades are soft or whatever...I'm only involved in this topic because I stick up for my friends, in this case,

 

a) Donini, a former boss of mine and an alpine master

 

b) "pope", my long-time climbing buddy, and a very good climber indeed.

 

Do you stick up for your buddies? or do you stand by and watch while they get peed upon? Got any buddies?

Posted
do you stand by and watch while they get peed upon?

 

the way you both get peed on, i'm kinda thinking you're into the whole watersports thing; any truth to this observation?

Posted
gee rainy, should be an easy wager for you and all since modern sport climbing routes are all so massively overrated!! ;)

 

gee RumRy, I could really care less if sport grades are soft or whatever...I'm only involved in this topic because I stick up for my friends, in this case,

 

a) Donini, a former boss of mine and an alpine master

 

b) "pope", my long-time climbing buddy, and a very good climber indeed.

 

Do you stick up for your buddies? or do you stand by and watch while they get peed upon? Got any buddies?

hey tool...didya notice i didn't rip ya until you told kimmo to sit down? duh....

Posted

From ST, an old Brutus of Wyde take on grades on a topo he was sharing is worth bringing up again:

 

 

"Brutus, chewing his cud, ruminates on the porch of the

Old Climbers' Home, spits toward the spitoon in the corner,

then shuffles off into his room, returning an hour later

with a fist full of soiled, wrinkled papers from writings

of long ago...

 

Well, I've got a few notes written down here...

 

Reasons for seemingly mis-rated routes:

1. The route has changed since it was rated.

2. You have changed since the route was rated.

3. Ratings have changed since the route was rated.

4. Equipment has changed since the route was rated.

5. Climbing styles, techniques, preferences, and

popularity have changed since the route was rated.

6. The universe has changed since the route was rated

7. The route was originally mis-rated

8. The first ascentionist had poor self-esteem

9. The first ascentionist had delusions of grandeur

10. The first ascentionist had a huge ego, coupled

with a twisted sense of humor and a large dose of

false humility, and fists 12" in diameter.

11. The first ascentionist was off-route.

12. You were off route.

13. The guidebook was off-route.

14. East Coast climbs are harder for a given rating.

15. West Coast Climbs are harder for a given rating,

except in Black Velvet Canyon, Red Rocks, Nevada,

which we shouldn't use as an example since it isn't on the

coast anyways, and on Cloud Tower, but no one really

believes that Toni Bbub soloed Chrimson Chrysalis

round trip from the Visitors' Center in 23.584 seconds

so that doesn't really count either

16. The route is located in the California High Sierra,

and was rated 4th Class 50 years ago

17. The route is located in the Bernese Oberland, and

was rated 4th class 90 years ago

18. The route was first ascended by John Bachar, who

(as he later confessed) at the time had

no clue as to what grade inflation was taking place

in the world outside his own first ascents.

19. The route is an Offwidth.

20. The route is not an Offwidth.

21. YES, THE ROUTE IS A D*MN OFFWIDTH!!!

22. Bullsh*t. If you say that, you're not a Real

Climber . If you'd shed a few pounds, you would

see that the route is obviously a squeeze chimney.

Stupid IDIOT!

23. Oh. Well, I laybacked it. Seemed casual 5.7, not 5.12

24. The route actually needs 3 ratings, and the rating

system does not take this into account:

4th, 5.7x, 5.12f [Guidebook shows route as

4th class, climbed in 1950 by Koontz and Hayes in

work boots... Modern guidebook would place the difficulty

at 5.7 x because there is no place to protect, hence

the original 4th class rating, but there is one section

that is 5.12 if you have the wingspan of a finch.]

25. The first ascent party climbed the route in mountaineering

boots with tricouni nails, an alpenstock, and 60 pound packs.

26. In winter.

27. During a drought.

28. With helecopter support, for a movie about Hugo Hardcore

and the Master Monk.

29. The route has not yet been climbed.

30. Coffee.

31. No coffee.

32. The route was first climbed by Tobin Sorenson and Gib Lewis.

33. The route was not first climbed, today, by r...@chartist.com,

and hence was rated differently than what rob and his partner

would rate it.

34. The rating is based on an intricate sequence worked out

by Chris "Speedy" Gonzales of RMRU on top rope over many

months, and if you place pro in the only viable location,

you've just clogged up a crucial jam. Shoulda soloed it.

35. John Bachar worked out the sequence on a top rope prior

to leading the climb, something the guidebook failed to

mention, and they left out the R/X rating too

36. The route description, rating, and topo have the following

text etched in the lower right hand corner, visible only

with electron micrograph when held over an unlit candle under

a full moon on the 6th of July. [All routes have this

disclaimer, by the way. If you don't believe me, get your

own scanning electron microscope and check it out

for yourself!]

"Summary and Disclaimer:

This rating, this description, and this topo, are based

on dim recollections, misguided conscenses,

half-baked guesses, and outright lies, and in NO WAY do

they even ATTEMPT to tell the full story. Loose rock, weather,

and excessive consumption of alcohol are among countless

factors that will KILL you when attempting this route. If you

can't take responsibility for your own safety, for your

own decisions and knowledge, if you can't climb at your own

risk, if you or your survivors are the kind who would try

to sue the author of a topo or a guidebook, PLEASE stay

far far away from this route, give up climbing, and die of

some completely natural, painful, slowly progressive disease.

Thank you."

Posted
i prefer Wiley Coyote and Roadrunner to this dialogue. Get a room or take it to spray.

 

ya really think i care about your preferences? and your arbitrary differentiations between spray and non-spray? you guessed it. so go ahead and ban me, bitch; you'd be doing me a favor.

 

and thanks, buddy, for sticking up for me; that raindawg is a meanie!

Posted

I can ban you for the following prices:

 

1 day = 20 dollars

1 week = 100 dollars

1 year = 1000 dollars

 

All funds are U.S. dollars.

 

No problem sticking up for you! I think mostly that Raindawg is impaired such that he mainly has to communicate with pictures to express himself fully. He likely lacks the necessary vocabulary to communicate fully in the written form. It is possible that part of his hippocampus is damaged, but this is pure speculation.

 

I do enjoy Sunday morning cartoons. Another good one is the one with the mouse and the cat entitled "Tom and Jerry". Its just that most people are here about climbing and climbing talk, not to see people bash each other over the head with a mallet (no matter how lovingly).

Posted
i prefer Wiley Coyote and Roadrunner to this dialogue. Get a room or take it to spray.

Uh..Porter. This turned to spray on page one.

 

In case y'all haven't noticed, EVERY thread in the rock climbing forum eventually morphs into an exploration of one or more of the following themes:

 

1 - why bolts are actually the first harbinger of the apocalypse.

2 - why crusty the armchair clown climbed harder in the 70s in EBs than Chris Sharma does today.

3 - why one route, crag, or genital appendage is better than another.

 

Someone should write a little software to generate these threads - it would save these guys some time ;)

 

Posted
That Wil E. Coyote is such a kook. I kind of wish he'd catch that Road Runner at least once though. He doesn't seem like such a bad guy.

 

At least he keeps the Washington economy going. I was just in Acme the other day and it was sporting a brand new warehouse full of dynamite, hammers, rocket skis etc. all waiting for coyote purchase.

Posted
the way you both get peed on, i'm kinda thinking you're into the whole watersports thing; any truth to this observation?

 

Nope...ain't my thing. You're going to have to troll elsewhere for your like-minded excretory-fascinated brethren.

 

hey tool...didya notice i didn't rip ya until you told kimmo to sit down? duh....

 

First evidence ever that you were my "buddy". "Kimmo"'s a joke and probably someone's double avatar.

 

 

I think mostly that Raindawg is impaired such that he mainly has to communicate with pictures to express himself fully. He likely lacks the necessary vocabulary to communicate fully in the written form. It is possible that part of his hippocampus is damaged, but this is pure speculation.

 

yah...I guess that's why I'm a well-published author writing books just for the likes of you. Perhaps you didn't show up that day in art history class when the professor lectured on the the symbolic nature of imagery...I guess that requires, first, going to college....oh never mind. You are, however, welcome to attempt to interpret, with all your assumptive wisdom, what the following might have to do with the nature of sport-climbing:

 

metamorphosis2.jpg

 

Posted
PLEASE stay far far away from this route, give up climbing, and die of some completely natural, painful, slowly progressive disease.

 

I think that's pretty much the only sane response to caring about route grading.

Posted
"Kimmo"'s a joke and probably someone's double avatar.

 

Right, because if you don't know Kimmo, he can't really be a climber. :rolleyes:

 

No, dude...it's because his manner of discourse seemed very, very familiar.

(And what does having a double avatar have to do with being or not being a climber? I never said this guy wasn't. There are/were several folks around here with multiple "avatars", some who were quite the active climbers.) :rolleyes:

 

So when is a mod going to to put this in spray?

 

Looking for company?

Posted

Well, I figure Peter started it and was fully cognizant of where it would go, and this is really his forum, I'm more an adjunct mod, so I'll leave it to him to pull the plug. It's less rancorous than many a climbing related slugfest, and there are some good on topic points in here...

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