vert Posted March 12, 2011 Posted March 12, 2011 Hey Dave, Nice topo for the south face of the flatiron. Here are a few additions for ya. Draw a line between the top pitch of 15 and the second of 14. Thats a 70m variation at 5.10D, two pitches with the first one off the ledge at maybe an R, its scary. The second one goes through the roof on great holds, very exciting and protected well. Also out riding fences 11 gos left from part way up desperado or billys 11 whatever start you prefer, across the orange wall maybe thirty feet of traversing, then up through the roof (hard to make out on this screen)on excellent rock. Rap from second set of anchors with one rope. These lines were all established on the lead for your reference. And I can,t tell, but is 14 graded 5.7? Its the original line climbed 2/18/2000 (we also did some water ice first ascents that weekend in the Elkhorns too!)also put up on lead and its a solid 5.10. We used only 8 bolts but it now has still only eleven! Needless to say its popularity is low!! Thats to bad because it actually has good natural pro and provides access to those great variation pitches above, if in to that type of committed climbing. Do you have something like this for the west face? As you know, I have a bunch of undocumented stuff there, some of which has been incorrectly recorded by Yoder. I established a really good route you would like after you left for Arizona. It is a beautiful easy 10 on a super clean section of stone similar in quality to limosuine. See ya around, Mark Hauter- Quote
Roadstead1 Posted March 13, 2011 Posted March 13, 2011 Mark, Thanks a lot... I put up this topo just as a tease, it was never up to-date and could not have been with out your beta. It would be great to have (your)info of your FA's in Hell. 7 weeks of winter sun and limestone, AZ was off the hook! 420 this year is planed for the weekend of 4-15. Hope you/all can make it. Quote
DPS Posted March 13, 2011 Posted March 13, 2011 Is the road to Hell paved with good intentions, or is it more of a gravel road? Quote
vert Posted March 19, 2011 Posted March 19, 2011 I will try, new job and training in texas/midwest to commence around that time. I should get the chance to begin scanning my topos and will share them when i can. Hope to see you in April Dave- MH- Quote
Roadstead1 Posted March 19, 2011 Posted March 19, 2011 I heard about a new job/moving, I also heard about a truck and icy roads...glad your alright and it sounds like all is going well. There's no big rush on, seeing how it's taken you over 20 years to get that beta. Let me know if I can help out. The weekend of the 15th of April is on! I will see you in Hell Quote
Roadstead1 Posted June 28, 2011 Posted June 28, 2011 It looks like it might not be hot as Hell in the Canyon for this 4 of July weekend. A small crew will be out climbing in the shade. You all are welcome, so come join the fun in Hell! Quote
Roadstead1 Posted July 5, 2011 Posted July 5, 2011 It was great. Climb in the deep shade all weekend places like the Pig Pen, War and Peace and the north side of Big Bar Buttress (Saturday Jesus) all climbs that never see the sun. Quote
JosephH Posted July 6, 2011 Posted July 6, 2011 Nice to see some pictures of the place. Is that the bulk of it? And are these pics representative of the climbing out there? From the pics it doesn't really look quite worth a six hour drive from PDX unless you're a real limestone junkie or passing through anyway. Is there more to the place? Quote
Roadstead1 Posted July 6, 2011 Posted July 6, 2011 Nice to see some pictures of the place. Is that the bulk of it? And are these pics representative of the climbing out there? From the pics it doesn't really look quite worth a six hour drive from PDX unless you're a real limestone junkie or passing through anyway. Is there more to the place? You can just keep telling yourself that and finish off the rest of your life just climbing at Beacon, or you could take that drive and find out firsthand just what you might be missing. But the truth is I'm that "Limestone Junky" and I'll drive 5 times that to pull on World Class Limestone. Quote
JosephH Posted July 6, 2011 Posted July 6, 2011 You can just keep telling yourself that and finish off the rest of your life just climbing at Beacon, or you could take that drive and find out firsthand just what you might be missing. But the truth is I'm that "Limestone Junky" and I'll drive 5 times that to pull on World Class Limestone. Well, I was just curious and that's exactly what I'll keep doing. In general, when I don't want to climb at Beacon I get on a plane and when I want to climb limestone (not a big fan, though), I'll invest those six hours (and a few martinis) into getting to Railay. Quote
billcoe Posted July 6, 2011 Posted July 6, 2011 6 hours and you're not even near being over the Mariana Trench and you're still 30,000 feet up. Thanks for the pictures Dave! BTW, I think my kid might be too intimidated (cough* istoomuch of apussy* cough) to look you up. He's done the 420 camping/climbing trip in Hell with his buddies. I've seen the pictures on his facebook page.... Quote
hanman Posted July 7, 2011 Posted July 7, 2011 I have been several times and find it's well worth the 8.5-9 hour drive from my locale. My favorite area in the NW other than Darrington (20 miles from my doorstep). Thanks to Dave, Hauter, Steve, and the crew for those great pitches. If I could only talk my girl into moving to LaGrande or thereabouts.... MH Quote
Roadstead1 Posted July 8, 2011 Posted July 8, 2011 Well, I was just curious and that's exactly what I'll keep doing. In general, when I don't want to climb at Beacon I get on a plane and when I want to climb limestone (not a big fan, though), I'll invest those six hours (and a few martinis) into getting to Railay. Sex, Drugs and Climbing, I wish!! You should try pulling on a little more limestone before you go next-time...you just might become a Big Fan. Thanks for the pictures Dave! BTW, I think my kid might be too intimidated (cough* istoomuch of apussy* cough) to look you up. He's done the 420 camping/climbing trip in Hell with his buddies. I've seen the pictures on his facebook page.... Your welcome and you should tell your Son, that some of us know it already and the rest them are just curious it. You/everybody should think about a 3 day weekend after Labor Day. We could call it "Old Fart Climbers in Hell" and remember the days when studs were 1/4 and we never fell:shock:and lie about how hard we are pulling now. You just might have one of the longest drive of anyone that has been to Hell. Hell...It's a good thing! Quote
JosephH Posted July 8, 2011 Posted July 8, 2011 Sex, Drugs and Climbing, I wish!! You should try pulling on a little more limestone before you go next-time...you just might become a Big Fan. Nah, I'm a trad climber which is a pretty tough proposition on most limestone. I was in Railay in '93 and I suspect it's still about the only time the locals have seen a full trad rack or someone trad climbing there (which mostly consists of slinging things and stacking stuff in pockets). A couple of them were pretty fascinated by it all so I was never wanting for partners. Quote
boadman Posted July 8, 2011 Posted July 8, 2011 It was great. Climb in the deep shade all weekend places like the Pig Pen, War and Peace and the north side of Big Bar Buttress (Saturday Jesus) all climbs that never see the sun. Anything steep? Any caves with decent rock? Looks pretty slabby. Quote
shapp Posted July 8, 2011 Author Posted July 8, 2011 (edited) Sex, Drugs and Climbing, I wish!! You should try pulling on a little more limestone before you go next-time...you just might become a Big Fan. Nah, I'm a trad climber which is a pretty tough proposition on most limestone. I was in Railay in '93 and I suspect it's still about the only time the locals have seen a full trad rack or someone trad climbing there (which mostly consists of slinging things and stacking stuff in pockets). A couple of them were pretty fascinated by it all so I was never wanting for partners. Me thinks you protest what you know not. Pre-conceived notions are often askew. I too am a primarily trad climber, Hells Canyon rocks! While there are ample “sport routes” there are also several mixed routes put up by VERT THE MAN that will put the pucker up your trad anus. Edited July 8, 2011 by shapp Quote
orion_sonya Posted July 8, 2011 Posted July 8, 2011 Anything steep? Any caves with decent rock? Looks pretty slabby. There are some worthy caves there. Quote
boadman Posted July 8, 2011 Posted July 8, 2011 http://www.mountainproject.com/images/35/26/106113526_large_6ee23f.jpg Looks pretty rad, actually. Pretty similar to Rifle. Quote
JosephH Posted July 8, 2011 Posted July 8, 2011 Me thinks you protest what you know not. Pre-conceived notions are often askew. I too am a primarily trad climber, Hells Canyon rocks! While there are ample “sport routes” there are also several mixed routes put up by VERT THE MAN that will put the pucker up your trad anus. Maybe, but worth six hours in the car - not to me anyway unless I was passing through. Plenty of ass-puckering action locally. Quote
orion_sonya Posted July 8, 2011 Posted July 8, 2011 http://www.mountainproject.com/images/35/26/106113526_large_6ee23f.jpg Looks pretty rad, actually. Pretty similar to Rifle. I am pretty sure I know what route that is and I think that picture shows just about the entire route! Quote
vert Posted July 9, 2011 Posted July 9, 2011 Yes, lets get something planned for a weekend down there after Labor day!! Dave I am glad you had a good time, how was the ivy this season? Quote
Roadstead1 Posted July 10, 2011 Posted July 10, 2011 A couple of them were pretty fascinated by it all so I was never wanting for partners. Everybody loves a good Freak Show Mark, I'm all in...can and will do any weekend!! With out adopt Hells Canyon grows some of the finest ivy, I have ever had the pleasure to hike thru. Quote
Roadstead1 Posted September 11, 2011 Posted September 11, 2011 A few of us will be in Hell on the weekend of 23-25 if you would like a tour. Come make a few new friends. Quote
vert Posted October 23, 2011 Posted October 23, 2011 Managed to make it down weekend before last. Outstanding weather yielded three new routes on the west side of the flat iron. Kevin established two bolted beauties up on fat broad ledge. His 11b done there is superb!! I led a 10 mostly traditional with the exception of three bolts to start. Good climb with lots of stemming. I am going back this weekend of 28-31 and planning on firing another new line or two unless its vacant, in which case i will travel further east to Borah. The weather looks ok throughout, but even so the limestone dries so fast only a torrential down pour puts it off. Hauter- Quote
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