flashclimber Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 Doug finally got the video of Thin Fingers upper pitch together. He says its not the final edit, just a quick edit. Quote
RuMR Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 cool vid...but what's up with the boxing glove tape jobbie? Quote
billcoe Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 Noice! I wonder if some of these folks are gonna look back in 15-20 years and think "What the hell was I thinking with that music?" Quote
Raindawg Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 Noice! I wonder if some of these folks are gonna look back in 15-20 years and think "What the hell was I thinking with that music?" Unfortunately, I's gots to agree with Drill-master Coe. What's up with the "music"???...seems to be common with these kinds of videos....you want's to say, "we's bad", but let the climbing speak for itself...the music says..."we lame and we's trying too hard to prove we ain't". Billcoe's comment reminds me of the old joke: What did the Dead-head say when the drugs wore off? Answer: "What the hell was that horrible noise????" Carry on......Raindawg Quote
pope Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 Very entertaining! Hey Flash, ask "Doug" if we're gonna see the 5.11 part in the final edit (you know, the bouldering move off the belay). Quote
marc_leclerc Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 thats a sweet line... i think its funny that its called 'thin fingers' when it looks mostly like a hand crack Quote
lancegranite Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 That record was from 1991 or so and is still relavant today. Raindawg, reading your monday morning quarterback commentary perfectly sums up how I feel about the bulk of your posts. I'm sure that more people would agree with your opinions if you were out there climbing moderate routes like the fine one featured in this nice video. Quote
Serenity Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 cool vid...but what's up with the boxing glove tape jobbie? You do that when you have to put your hand IN the rock to hold on. You don't see too much of that at the gym, crimpmaster. Quote
billcoe Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 Good video either way. Sometimes when I climb, I notice that I have music in my head. This seems to be especially true when I'm in that real sweet "Flow" state. However, I have my own favorite riffs going, maybe a new good song, but usually old same as it ever was lame shit like Zepplin, Beatles, or Jethro Tull running in low volume back there. I love all that stuff. So if, when Doug or these guys are climbing, they have that kind of shit newer music that young folks like today going in real time banging at loud volume inside their heads as they are on the rock: I totally understand playing that on a vid and duplicating that experience for us and their buddies on a vid. If that isn't happening in real life, then putting it on a vid is done for another reason, and Dawg has a point. I cannot say which way this is in this case, although I'm sure these folks know. It's probably just about getting a stoke going. Meantime, some old gummers like Raindawg and I are usually, but not always, astute enough on the technology front to find the volume and turn it down a bit if we get bothered, and not yet lucky enough to just know which way the lens of a video camera gets pointed. Until we progress past cro-magnum technology, we will have to make due with others videos. Like this one. So thanks for sharing it! Love that sweet sweet granite, and dude was sooo super smooth wired. Great stuff. Dawg, when can we see a Dawg video production with some Vivaldi or Mozart?? Quote
marc_leclerc Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 I am seriously confused about why a handcrack is called 'thin fingers' I didnt see much finger jammin happening in the vid.. Quote
olyclimber Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 That record was from 1991 or so and is still relavant today. Raindawg, reading your monday morning quarterback commentary perfectly sums up how I feel about the bulk of your posts. I'm sure that more people would agree with your opinions if you were out there climbing moderate routes like the fine one featured in this nice video. +1 Quote
RuMR Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 cool vid...but what's up with the boxing glove tape jobbie? You do that when you have to put your hand IN the rock to hold on. You don't see too much of that at the gym, crimpmaster. HAHAHAHA Tape is so not needed on gold camalot sized cracks...(or any other ones)...not to mention there's what like, 10-15 feet of crack on that thing? Quote
Drederek Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 I am seriously confused about why a handcrack is called 'thin fingers' I didnt see much finger jammin happening in the vid.. I'm gonna guess it has to do with the first 15' corner, which I always feel lucky to get thru with my fat fingers. Quote
Off_White Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 Rudy, even when you are fat, guys your size just don't put the same number of pounds per square inch on your jams as people like Serenity or me. I do get your point though, on many climbs and types of rock, skill obviates the need for tape. Nice vid Flashclimber, your friend is getting better at putting these things together, I think this one is my favorite so far. Quote
bwrts Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 I would guess the name "thin fingers" has to do with the first ~60-70' of climbing to the half pitch belay(1st anchor), then the next ~15' to the hand crack and finally the airy 10d section above the roof. The climbs rating is based on sending the rig from the base of the wall. Do not fool yourself into believing you climbed the route if you did not start from the dirt and continue through the 1st anchor to the anchor near the trees. consult old cummins' topo and observe the word thin on 1st half of climb: Index Lower town wall right although is seems the ratings on the upper half of the pitch are switched. FWIW- Tatoosh 1st pitch is cleaned up and stellar w/o all the dirt... all thanks to curtis and pat!!! Quote
bwrts Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 i agree (for once ) with rumR, what is up with the tape gloves? -that crack is about as sharp as a spoon. Quote
fenderfour Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 The first bit is thin and rated .10a to the intermediate anchor below the bouldery .11a move Quote
mattp Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 I agree with everybody else. Whats up with guys who put folks down for using tape? Among anybody who isn't striving for some kind of "expert" status, it has been fairly common practice for 30 years and it doesn't hurt you any. I for one am happy to see the video even if I know I could make something so incredibly much better that everybody would join me in calling the OP a pathetic loser. Quote
pope Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 I am seriously confused about why a handcrack is called 'thin fingers' I didnt see much finger jammin happening in the vid.. Back in the 1970's it was a first knuckle pinky crack all the way. Then Kit Lewis did the whole thing via lie back (in Galibier Super Guides). He pulled so hard on the edge of the crack that it actually opened up to its current hand-jam size (and is now 5.8+). Quote
NateF Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 Skinheads climbing cracks to smashing pumpkins... and a bunch of grumps nitpicking and belittling them! This is awesome! Seriously, that's pretty darn good video, must've taken some effort. Quote
fenderfour Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 I am seriously confused about why a handcrack is called 'thin fingers' I didnt see much finger jammin happening in the vid.. Back in the 1970's it was a first knuckle pinky crack all the way. Then Kit Lewis did the whole thing via lie back (in Galibier Super Guides). He pulled so hard on the edge of the crack that it actually opened up to its current hand-jam size (and is now 5.8+). Quote
chucK Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 Great video. Can't wait to see the final cut. Would be cool if the pull through the roof were included at that point. How many cameras did you guys use, and/or was it all one "send" or did you film multiple laps? Don't worry about the music critics. They suck. Just figure how many more lame complaints you'd've gotten had you scored it with "Stairway ..." (dude), "Aqualung" (though "greasy fingers smearing shabby clothes, might have had some relevance) or "My Favorite Things" (Raindawg's fave, the Anthony Newly version of course), and call it good. And the tape gloves? Next time just paint the tape skin color and wear a bright green helmet, and nobody'll be bitching about the tape. Quote
Raindawg Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 Dawg, when can we see a Dawg video production with some Vivaldi or Mozart?? Great idea. It might better express the beauty and intensity of the experience than the usual screech and shriek. P.S. ...or "My Favorite Things" (Raindawg's fave, the Anthony Newly version of course)... It's spelled "Newley" and I don't believe he ever recorded that particular song, which is not my favorite.....chuck. Quote
Raindawg Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 By the way, anyone who climbs "Thin Fingers" should pay their respects to the first ascensionist, Mr. Paul Boving, a Cascade rock and alpine pioneer (in his time), who put up the route around 1977 and died on it a couple of years later. Quote
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