Dane Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 I had this question posed to me today, "Is there a healthy soloist's community in Seattle?" ( try to avoid the obvious poke at that one That kind of stopped me for a moment and I had to think of the areas I have lived over the years and of the "soloists" I've known. It is a short list. Even shorter of those that have and still do. Just for fun lets get a head count. How many here intentionally solo routes (unroped) on technical terrain? Not just the occasional 4th class but the kind of things that most rope up on. Think more John Bachar, Peter Croft or Mark Twight sort of antics than a high ball like Classic crack with a bunch of people wandering about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 I used to solo up to 5.7 on a regular basis. Mostly alpine. But now I am just not practiced enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 On my first epic up Snow Creek Wall in ~ 1994 this red haired guy came cruising by us unroped. That blew my fucking mind! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 Derek Hersey used to do that. But Derek always stopped to chat a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 I'm not in the PNW anymore, but yeah I solo on a semi-regular basis. Usually it's very easy stuff when I just want to get in some exercise, work out some soreness, etc. But occasionally I do something pretty close to my limit when I'm feeling strong, injury free and have been getting in alot of mileage. 98% of the time I'm alone with no people around, don't like spectators. Never really soloed much until I moved to Josh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 My imagination is much too active for soloing to be fun. What if I trip over a shoelace? What if I'm stung by a cloud of hornets? Now I can add to that list: what if my bicep detaches? It doesn't matter that these things have never happened, or that since I haven't fallen off a 5.9 since forever I should be perfectly safe soloing these things, I just think about how stupid I would feel if I were dead, and then I don't do it. I guess some people like their odds a little closer, while I tend to prefer a sure thing. For all that I'm a climber and an entrepreneur, risk is not all that attractive to me. While I'm not fond of folks who solo for the sake of public spectacle (like those who want to solo the one pitch route you're in the middle of climbing), I don't have a problem with people who just quietly go about their business for their own reasons. It's just not my way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 i solo at crags and in the alpine regularly, but generally either on things i've done roped before or that are supposed to be easier than 5.8. i find soloing to be tremendously fun and confidence building, not to mention occasionally scary - soloing is kinda like regular climbing X 10. soloing routes like the se corner at beacon is just an incredible expereince that can't be reproduced w/ a partner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 I solo easy stuff... 5.6 around Its a lot of fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 I used to do solo backpacks, rock climbs, ski mountaineering and alpine climbing on a regular basis and enjoyed it a great deal. On any real climb, however, there was always that moment when I found myself wondering why I put myself in that position and I didn't consciously decide to quit but I did rather suddenly stop doing it some time in my late 30's. I don't personally know any older climbers that still do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreimer Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 Someone once said... There are "Old" or "Bold" climbers, but not "Old and Bold". I try not to solo...but will occasionally. Safety you know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 i have, i do and hope to continue mostly cause it brings me peace. i know that sounds ghey but it is what it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 Someone once said... There are "Old" or "Bold" climbers, but not "Old and Bold". I try not to solo...but will occasionally. Safety you know. "There are old climbers, and there are bold climbers, but there are no old, bold climbers." ...Paul Petzoldt Gave up soloing regularly about 15 years ago or so, shortly after entering my 30s. Now, if I do it, it's for a short pitch or just to get to a tougher spot where a rope is required. I do still enjoy solo backpacking trips and solo alpine "excursions" at the low end of the technical range (5.4-ish), but I wouldn't call that real soloing at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreimer Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 sobo: You got it! I couldn't find it....that's the quote! Awesome quote too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZONK Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 This question made me think. Over the years yes, Now yes, in the future yes. I think each has his or her own reason. For me doing so helped get me through some damn F***ing hard times. Now for the joy of being alone with the stone. But not to often. Once or twice a year In the future when I'm old, I can see doing it to prove to myself I can still climb. And to have flash backs to grander days A quick glance at notes, besides bring back memories good and bad, shows somewhere around 30-50 ? routes in the Leavenworth area alone, Many more then once. With most falling in the 5.0 to 5.8 range. Some harder on both those good days and those really F****ed up days. Thanks for making Me think about it ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 that old bold climbers statement is gayer than alex lowe's having the most fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 that old bold climbers statement is gayer than alex lowe's having the most fun no shit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 you young kids these dayz... let us relics have our moment, plz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted June 18, 2008 Author Share Posted June 18, 2008 Thanks for making Me think about it ! Same thing here. I am seldom at a loss for words. But the first time someone starts asking me about soloing I was at a loss for words. Never really talked about it other than with guys doing similar stuff. Not usually a topic of conversation for those that don't choose to partake. Shooting herion isn't a typical party topic over a glass of Merlot Then I realised "those guys" were a short list in my world. FWIW none of the guys I know who have a history of soloing difficult routes stop soloing if they still climb. The climbs and difficulty may change over time but the mind set doesn't. With all due respect to Petzoldt, I'd bet he was well past 60 when he made that statement, besides the fact that it was a good number of generations ago in the climbing world. Some things change...some don't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 croft is a relic and still solos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 ...With all due respect to Petzoldt, I'd bet he was well past 60 when he made that statement, besides the fact that it was a good number of generations ago in the climbing world. Some things change...some don't. I'm sure that's true, Dane. Mike and ivan, if you thought that first Petzoldt quote was ghey, then mebbe you'd like some of his other ones better: "Sit down and have a cigarette after you do first aid, then plan your evacuation." or "Rules are for fools." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 I like to solo easy stuff sometimes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 i like to jackoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edlinger Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 Most folks will tell you (myself included) that the best solos are right after relationships end. I solo a lot more waterfall ice than rock these days but I've soloed up to 11a. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pup_on_the_mountain Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 Last summer I climbed a variation of Silverhorn on Athabasca - the variation was because I cut left too soon, and didn't want to meander all the way to the top of Silverhorn on easier terrain. I had to climb up and over the schrund, which presented overhanging glacial ice at the easiset exit. It was may be only 15 ft, and the angle eased back after the lip, but it got me pumped silly, and I barely pulled through . I felt good to have done it, but in retrospect, I felt I was rather stupid. I don't think I'll ever have to balls to solo hard rock routes. Talking about soloing in the alpine, I was able to watch someone else in action three years back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted June 18, 2008 Author Share Posted June 18, 2008 Most folks will tell you (myself included) that the best solos are right after relationships end. From the guys who I know that have made a practice of hard soloing over the years not something I'd agree with. I solo a lot more waterfall ice than rock these days but I've soloed up to 11a. Same here on the ice. Much less risky entertainment and you can slide through on fitness compared to hard rock. Pup's thread was more of what I had in mind when i think of soloing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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