Coolest Moderate Climbs on Earth

[ericb]

It's new wave chest beating. Instead of spraying about the hard climb you've sent, you casually mention it in passing and call it "moderate".

Just what I was thinking but didn't have the stones to immortalize it on a BB

[mattp]

Now that you've got the stones, Eric, lets hear your recs for moderate climbs for the moderate climber. I listed one that most of the regular posters here probably wouldn't even rope up for!

[John Frieh]

You could take the first two words of Webster's definition and squeeze Slipstream in there but, of the big name climbs listed here, how many of the people posting on cc.com or even posting in this thread have climbed a bunch of routes much more difficult and bigger?

 

On cc.com? I'd say maybe 10 or so posters on this page are climbing routes that aren't "moderate"

 

***sidenote*** and that is totally cool... every one climbs for different reasons and to push themselves. But if someone thinks they should toot their horn because they aided their way up the girth pillar they need to STFU.

[ericb]

Now that you've got the stones, Eric, lets hear your recs for moderate climbs for the moderate climber. I listed one that most of the regular posters here probably wouldn't even rope up for!

 

I also don't have the stones to tip my hat as to what MY definition of moderate is on this BB. Remember my Outerspace thread??? Once bitten.....

[fenderfour]

As the cutting edge/edge of the envelope gets pushed further and further to me what is "moderate" becomes harder and harder...

 

I call bullshit. "moderate" has little to do with what the world's best athletes are doing. "moderate" has to do with what a majority of the athletes are doing. A synonym of "moderate" is "average".

 

The world's best marathon runners can finish in a little over 2 hours. By your definition, a "moderate" finishing time would be around 3 hours. After all, 3 to 3.5 hours is achievable if you train. In truth, less than 10% of marathon runners finish in less than 3.5 hours. The average is 4.5 hours to finish.

 

Sorry, I had to bring some logic into the discussion.

[mattp]

Hey: I listed The Tooth! That's been cascadeclimbers' biggest joke in the past. But it is a great climb and I was just raving about it on Saturday. Fenderfour and I will stick up for you.

[ericb]

As the cutting edge/edge of the envelope gets pushed further and further to me what is "moderate" becomes harder and harder...

 

I call bullshit. "moderate" has little to do with what the world's best athletes are doing. "moderate" has to do with what a majority of the athletes are doing. A synonym of "moderate" is "average".

 

The world's best marathon runners can finish in a little over 2 hours. By your definition, a "moderate" finishing time would be around 3 hours. After all, 3 to 3.5 hours is achievable if you train. In truth, less than 10% of marathon runners finish in less than 3.5 hours. The average is 4.5 hours to finish.

 

Sorry, I had to bring some logic into the discussion.

 

No apology necessary...this is on the climber's board and not in spray

[Peter_Puget]

Well when posting our choices shouldn't we follow the definition as given by Layton in the first post:

 

 

Single pitch to full scale VII's under 5.11c/d and WI5+

 

 

[John Frieh]

As the cutting edge/edge of the envelope gets pushed further and further to me what is "moderate" becomes harder and harder...

 

I call bullshit. "moderate" has little to do with what the world's best athletes are doing. "moderate" has to do with what a majority of the athletes are doing. A synonym of "moderate" is "average".

 

The world's best marathon runners can finish in a little over 2 hours. By your definition, a "moderate" finishing time would be around 3 hours. After all, 3 to 3.5 hours is achievable if you train. In truth, less than 10% of marathon runners finish in less than 3.5 hours. The average is 4.5 hours to finish.

 

Sorry, I had to bring some logic into the discussion.

 

Using slipstream as an example the majority of the climbing world doesnt find WI4+ hard... just all the NW punters

 

5.13 doesnt make the mags anymore because more of the population is climbing it... as standards rise so does (or should) the ability level of the "next generation"

[mattp]

Peter: Is that your definition of "moderate?" When was the last time you climbed 5.11b/c? Grade VI? WI 5? (I realize, of course, that it could have been last weekend but, for most of those in this thread, I bet it wasn't.)

[Peter_Puget]

hmmm...

Climbed 5.11b/c the last two weekends. One weekend successfully one weekend with hangs.

 

WI 4 - 20+ years It was pretty much one of my first ice routes, so it doesn't seem immoderate. Not sure if I ever climbed a WI5.

Grade VI 10 years ago approx. Lots of grade VI routes are moderate.

 

I would say "moderate” generally means topping out about 10a/b. ( Weekend Rock series anyone) That said Layton clearly set the bar higher so any why complain when people post routes that conform to his definition.

 

[mattp]

I'm not complaining. I just find it amusing.

 

That and I'm looking to see if I can encourage some less deserving climbers to chime in along with you elites.

[ivan]

damn you mike!

 

moderate's a state of mind - if properly bent, it's all extreme!

 

and i did enjoy my one Xtreme solo of da toof

[mattp]

As to the Grade VI, I understand where you are coming from. Peter, but I think 90% of those who consider themselves climbers would say there is nothing moderate about a Grade VI. Yes, Wayne's Sunribbon Arete is only 5.9 and I think that's why he thought it met the definition of moderate, but only in the context of a conversation about what all or nearly of us here would call "hard" climbs would it be called "moderate."

[Off_White]

Well when posting our choices shouldn't we follow the definition as given by Layton in the first post:

 

 

Single pitch to full scale VII's under 5.11c/d and WI5+

 

 

So for instance, under that definition, the Rupal Face is moderate? Huntington in winter?

 

To be more serious, using that criteria, Astroman belongs pretty high on the list.

[John Frieh]

Well when posting our choices shouldn't we follow the definition as given by Layton in the first post:

 

 

Single pitch to full scale VII's under 5.11c/d and WI5+

 

 

So for instance, under that definition, the Rupal Face is moderate? Huntington in winter?

 

To be more serious, using that criteria, Astroman belongs pretty high on the list.

 

God damn you guys love to split hairs. Just list some routes you thought were cool

[mattp]

What else are you going to do when faced with a cc.com thread about "moderates" but split hairs? Lets see the thread about "favorite hard climbs." Nope. No disagreement or posturing there!

 

Remember: we're all just wasting time at work. (Who's autosig was that?)

[John Frieh]

What else are you going to do when faced with a cc.com thread about "moderates" but split hairs?

 

I dont know... you could list some climbs you thought were cool and add the disclaimer "mileage will vary" perhaps?

[dberdinka]

I'll chime in on the climb I'll never do.....The Doug Scott Route (5.9 A1?) or maybe Line of Credit (5.10 A1) on Mount Asgard. 4000+ of mostly moderate climbing on perfect granite. Maybe not moderate like da toof but certainly lacking the objective hazards of say slipstream.

 

Yes that looks as cool as they come.

 

 

 

[mattp]

John: I did: The Tooth, W Ridge of Pidgeon, and High Exposure.

 

I have seen where folks on this bulletin board posted about how they didn't think these were worthy, and one guy even posted "what's the big deal about the West Ridge of Pigeon." In my opinion, the guy needs therapy if he likes alpine rock and can't find a way to enjoy the incredibly easy stroll that the West Ridge of Pidgeon must be because he just soloed Watchtower -- but your mileage may vary.

[John Frieh]

Nice Darin! Now we are talking!

[Lambone]

East Buttres of Middle Cathedral Rock, Yosemite

North Butress of Mt Stuart, Wa

 

my two most favorite longer moderate climbs, will repeat them over and over.

[tanstaafl]

Defining moderate as climbs I actually enjoyed while I was on them, instead of climbs that seemed great once I was back down sitting around a fire with a drink in my hand:

 

Cragging:

Davis-Holland/Lovin’ Arms – Index, WA

Something of Value/Last Moon/Moonraker – Blouberg, South Africa

West Face – North Early Winters Spire, WA

Camp Farm – Cochamo, Chile

Hyperspace – Snow Creek Wall, WA

Buch Goin - Refugio Frey, Argentina

 

 

Alpine:

North Ridge – Forbidden Peak, WA

East Ridge – Wolf’s Head, WY

Lost Marsupials – The Throne, Little Switzerland, AK

Squash Head/Backoff – Santaquin Canyon, UT

Triple Couloirs – Dragontail Peak, WA

 

[eric8]

mine would be

Supercouloir Mt. Blanc du tacul

Beckey Chounaird- south howser

West ridge of prusik

 

As far as the whole whats moderate. Most weekend warriors can obtain 5.11 and wi5 in a couple years but few of these ever climb this level on grade VII or even grade VI. I think if your going to include grade VI routes you should probably drop it done to 5.10 A2.

[fenderfour]

As the cutting edge/edge of the envelope gets pushed further and further to me what is "moderate" becomes harder and harder...

 

I call bullshit. "moderate" has little to do with what the world's best athletes are doing. "moderate" has to do with what a majority of the athletes are doing. A synonym of "moderate" is "average".

 

The world's best marathon runners can finish in a little over 2 hours. By your definition, a "moderate" finishing time would be around 3 hours. After all, 3 to 3.5 hours is achievable if you train. In truth, less than 10% of marathon runners finish in less than 3.5 hours. The average is 4.5 hours to finish.

 

Sorry, I had to bring some logic into the discussion.

 

Using slipstream as an example the majority of the climbing world doesnt find WI4+ hard... just all the NW punters

 

5.13 doesnt make the mags anymore because more of the population is climbing it... as standards rise so does (or should) the ability level of the "next generation"

 

Point successfully missed.