markwebster Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 My wife and I spent last weekend climbing in the Peshastin Pinnacles in Leavenworth. We saw two other climbers all weekend. It was sunny most of the time and looked clouded over up the icicle. We couldn't figure out why no one was there. Does the new generation of climbers hate sandstone or something? I'll have to admit that I started climbing there in 1977 when it was the only place to go early in the spring. The icicle and castle can be drizzling, and the pinnacles can be hot and sunny. We went to the pinnacles because my wife is trying to get back into climbing, and the Pinnacles has tons of easy routes, bolted and cracks. I was hesitant to take her there as I would have to lead them all, and the friction run outs can be scary. I was therefore surprised to find myself actually enjoying the run outs. We did Martian Diagonal: 5.6 with a few bolts and some trad gear. Up on the ramp, it's run out for 50 feet,but it's only 5.4 so I just hiked it...nervously...and of course my wife loved the easy climbing on follow. The first bolt on sunset slab is 60 feet up. I took up my cams and placed 4 on the way to the bolt. Some were manky, but it's so easy up there it was actually fun. Beautiful friction climbing, just what a couple of rusty has beens needed. We also did west face grand central, very close bolts for 80 feet, though run out at one point on 5.4 with a ground fall potential. Potholes at 5.7 must be one of the best protected bolt routes around...need a couple 2 inch cams for the exit chimney. It's really weird, and cool how you can get comfortable with run outs, it focuses the mind, gets you in the zone. I love that feeling and look forward to heading back there. Can't wait to get back on washboards and take some good sliders. There are lots of trad climbs there as well, vertigo, empire state, lightning, etc. I'd forgotten how much stuff is there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 Vantage is getting all the rainout traffic that Peshastin used to get 15 years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 I don't climb sandstone when I can climb damp granite. I have had two pieces pop due to the softness of the rock at Peshastin. I would gladly go there to climb the routes you are describing but I would be very careful about pushing myself into a fall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendershot Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 I saw the heading of this thread and wondered why more people don't climb the REI Pinnacle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanstaafl Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 I was at Peshastin weekend before last; it was coooold. It was actually really nice in the Icicle last weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 I think it's deserted because the climbing there isn't very good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 I think it's deserted because the climbing there isn't very good. I would have to agree. That being said, Peshastin's routes are better than the crack/trad routes at Vantage. ------------------------- Vantage has had some very cool bolted lines opened as of late. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZONK Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 Peshastin is better then Vantage any day anytime of the year ! You met better people there and you don't have to fight for a route. Most every route at Vantage is the same as the last and there is no adventure. But to each his own, There is lots of rock out there, Thats the joy and appeal of this Love of mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 I think its diminished popularity is due to the fact that you might have to climb 10 or 15 feet between bolts, which means that you have to climb a little more honestly. Instead, one can climb at Frenchman's where very little is required. Just pull on the jug, look around for all the chalk, grab the next jug, clip the bolt. Then call "TAKE" and shake out while you pretend you're really doing something. Don't forget to bitch about motocross riders and their attack on the environment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 I'm with ZONK and markwebster on this one. I love Peshastin. It's not near as bad as every one makes it out to be. I've taken some pretty good whippers there, too. Landed on my belayer while going for the first clip on Slender Thread. It's like a 20-footer. Yikes! And I've been thrashed more than once by the squeeze on the first pitch of Lightning Crack. Ouch! And all the run-outs on Martian Slab, Austrian Slab, and the climbs to the right of WF of GCT (some serious pebble-pinchin') are what keep me coming back. For run-outs, it just doesn't get any better than Peshastin, except for Lightning Dome over in Idaho... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 I would have to agree with markwebster, zonk and sobo on the peshastin pinnacle props. I suppose my affection towards the pinnacles is due to historical significance, quality of thought-provoking climbing and overall ambiance. But, it also has to due with the close proximity to Leavenworth. On crappy canyon days similar to current weather patterns it was and is WAY cheaper/closer to go to than Frenchmans Coulee, which I also agree is unvaried and boring yet worth going to visit. Things that have always irked me about the Peshastin Pinnacles is the size of the parking lot, seasonal closure despite closed days being the best days to climb at Pinnacles and overall idioic managment practice for the park. Oh and the stupid gate at the road. IMHO, Climbs worth doing over and over: DinoTower- Potholes Direct direct etc., Washboard; Sickle Slab- Windward direct, Testicle Fortitude; GCTower- Vertigo, Lightning Crack and nearby Wface routes; Martian Slab/tower- Martian Diagnol and nearby routes, Graham Cracker; Austrian Slab- Fakin it, Cajun Queen,Slender Thread and of course the uber classic and very rare "Ice Climbs" which form on the Darryl Slab behind GCTower. HEY PETER PUGET how are the rock climbs on the slab near GCTower maybe vulture slab?? anyone have stories about climbing the martian tower? specifically the butter brickle, west face or graham cracker routes. Also anyone have experiences with any of these Dinosaur tower routes: StonedAge man, Caveman or Cro-Magnon??? All these routes have always looked intriguing to me and was wondering if they have many repeats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe_Poulton Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 I went there in 2002ish. I enjoyed it a lot. However, on a recent trip...I forgot where the damn thing was...so I looked for it over by Smith. Utterly confused I say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 HEY PETER PUGET how are the rock climbs on the slab near GCTower maybe vulture slab?? anyone have stories about climbing the martian tower? specifically the butter brickle, west face or graham cracker routes. I haven't been near Vulture Slab or Church in many years and I have never climbed any of the routes routes on them. As far as the Martian Tower routes, Graham Cracker is a good route with a short crux. Well worth climbing. Butter Brickle I can't remembr at all although I think I have climbed it; same with the West Face. Don't climb the West Face. Instead try the Frostback Follies route. The photo in the latest version of L-Rock shows the route going straight up above the "AA." I believe the route actually moves left under the overhangs to join the West Face. This traverse is fun and uses many small pebbles which have been known to blow out. This was one of my fav Peshastin routes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwebster Posted April 9, 2008 Author Share Posted April 9, 2008 I have done cro-magnon, but it was too many decades ago to remember the details other than a big hole/pocket at the crux. I'd have to agree with what several of you have said, the Pinnacles is more manly than vantage, though I enjoy both places. We used to always spend the first few trips there in the spring. By the time we'd warmed up to washboards and fakin' it, we were ready for anything on the granite around Leavenworth. Some of the sliders you can take on routes like washboards and potholes direct are fun as hell! Nothing to hit, just a zoom down the cliff and hysterical laughter...then you jump back on it. we can't wait to go back, you guys are welcome to the crowds at Vantage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 b/c i don't want to drive 5 hours to climb sandstone slabs - i like cragging for practicing alpine skillz, and i've yet to encounter peshastin like rock in the high country of warshington! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 I did Butter Brickle years ago, it was the first time I placed a Big Bro as I remember (in a hueco?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 I believe that both Beckey and Tabor have reported that Mt. Higgins near Darrington is made of the same stone as Peshastin. I've never been up there, but from the road it looks like there are lots of vertical corners in addition to a massive tilt-up slab. --- I think part of what makes Peshastin scary is that, being so different from what we generally climb, it takes some getting used to. Most of us will go there one day when maybe we got rained out of Leavenworth but few go to Peshastin a couple days in a row or a couple days in a month. I agree with Ivan about generally not finding a lot of sandstone in the alpine areas, but runout slab climbing and poor pro is common on alpine rock climbs from the Stuart Range to the Tetons or the Bugaboos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateF Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 A few reasons I've never visited are because if you look in Kramer's guidebook it seems like every other route has an R or an X next to it and there's a little confusion (in my head anyway) about seasonal access. When you only get out that way a few times a year, it's pretty easy to choose a different location. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 I believe that both Beckey and Tabor have reported that Mt. Higgins near Darrington is made of the same stone as Peshastin. I've never been up there, but from the road it looks like there are lots of vertical corners in addition to a massive tilt-up slab. --- I think part of what makes Peshastin scary is that, being so different from what we generally climb, it takes some getting used to. Most of us will go there one day when maybe we got rained out of Leavenworth but few go to Peshastin a couple days in a row or a couple days in a month. I most definitely agree... --if One thinks Pinnacles is hard and scary go try climbing some quartzite in Baraboo, WI or try some big limestone in Marble Canyon. Both areas have become 'easier' feeling after multiple days or pitches... Hey DruL did you take pictures on Butter Brickle. That crack looks very cool... any shady details? Hey Darryl Cramer- what gives with the slab routes near GCtower? I think I read about them somewhere else stating you as the creator of the routes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raindawg Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 My wife and I spent last weekend climbing in the Peshastin Pinnacles in Leavenworth. We saw two other climbers all weekend. Is that a bad thing??? Do you really want to be around a bunch of climbers? Peshastin is a very pretty place, the less people, the better. We couldn't figure out why no one was there. Does the new generation of climbers hate sandstone or something? There was a time when it was as crowded on the weekends as Vantage and Exit 38. Before the parking lot, you'd have to park along the orchard road and sometimes it was so busy that cars were lined up alongside Hwy. 2! Those days are fortunately over. If you want to climb at Peshastin, you have to be willing to make long run-outs on climbs that were put up from the bottom up with a minimum of bolts (with a few exceptions...e.g. the W. Face of Grand Central Tower is way over-bolted) or place your own pro., sometimes in clever ways. Some of the run-outs are so long that on some routes we used to have the belayer prepared to run down hill to take up the slack to avoid a ground fall. Why doesn't the "new generation" of climbers go there and prefer places like Vantage/38 instead? I think the answer is obvious. It ain't like this: So, stay away. Peshastin is ugly, the routes suck and the rock is nasty. Keep driving...nothing there for you, mister.... P.S. re. "Butter Brickle". I've done it many times. It starts as an exposed overhanging handjam and ends up as a full-body off-width and then you crawl out of that and do some face-climbing up the pockets. Awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 [quote=bwrts Hey Darryl Cramer- what gives with the slab routes near GCtower? I think I read about them somewhere else stating you as the creator of the routes. I'm not Cramer and I'm not even convinced this is what you're talking about, but "slab routes near GCT" is close enough for me. If you're looking for some new and obscure-ish slab routes near GCT.... http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Main/34089/Number/463679#Post463679 I love the pinnicles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 ...if you look in Kramer's guidebook it seems like every other route has an R or an X next to it... But that's what makes Peshashtin so damned much fun. The uncertainty of whether or not you're coming home in a body bag! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 I thought what made Pechosstin so much fun was knowing that the towers you climb will soon fall over like Triggerfinger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 well, yeah, there's that, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwebster Posted April 9, 2008 Author Share Posted April 9, 2008 yeah, you are cool (and old) if you have a picture of yourself on triggerfinger before it fell over. I'm both. those skull symbols on Victors book assume you are a bolt climber who is used to the bolt spacing of vantage. Some of those routes are so badly bolted no one climbs them, it's obvious from the ground that only a free solo artist would even consider it. But those are not the norm. Many of them may have a skull rating, but come on, it's only 5.4, are you really going to fall off? That is some fun stuff, and you can warm up your friction skills on safer routes until the run outs on easy ground are a non issue. I'm the biggest pussy out there for run outs, and I had a blast. Another place where run outs are common are the apron at Yosemite, and Joshua tree. I've been to both recently, and suffered because I didn't serve my spring apprenticeship at Peshastin. Learning to keep your cool when high above a bolt on friction is a valuable skill, Pinnacles is a great place to learn it...and they are not all runnout. Many are very safe...and no lines. I was glad I had my stick clip on gray whale...yikes, that was scary...call me a pussy, but one broken ankle is enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.