dberdinka Posted March 13, 2008 Posted March 13, 2008 The dirt and bushes don't have a chance. This should get somebodies panties in a wad. Europa Quote
tradclimbguy Posted March 13, 2008 Posted March 13, 2008 More power to them. If they have the energy to clean that much crap off the rock and put up a new line I applaud them. It does look though like it runs right into Millenium Falcon at around pitch 5 but it's hard to tell looking at the picture. Quote
StevenSeagal Posted March 13, 2008 Posted March 13, 2008 And Beyond? Immediately at the top of Europa is a third-class trail to the start of Shaved Bum (.12a) and Colon (3p .8, .8, .9). A scrubbing of Colon could provide a moderate link-up to the top. Sounds like a colon scraper to me! Quote
Blake Posted March 13, 2008 Posted March 13, 2008 (edited) It was responsible for lots of crap all over Millenium Falcon, Rutageba, etc last year. Evidently there have been some issues as well with other route development higher up, bumping into a new route that follow more natural/(quality?) line. The guy spearheading the project seems friendly and courteous. Something that seemed rather odd to me was in the discussion of the route it states "Pitch 4 - This pitch starts with a large and very helpful tree that provides a route up what would otherwise be a section that is stiffer than the climb is supposed to be." I think any climb is "supposed to be" as difficult as it takes to climb up the rock. Otherwise you are engineering a climb/route to fit a predetermined level of difficulty. If you only climb 5.7, is climbing to the top of the Chief on a 10+ pitch route really on your tick-list? Perhaps it is, but I'd guess that most folks with their sights set that high probably have technical abilities that will make this route seem like a mundane or pedestrian dirty jungle. Edited March 13, 2008 by Blake Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted March 13, 2008 Posted March 13, 2008 I wonder how much we could raise to napalm the trees that were cut to the malamute. Quote
jmace Posted March 13, 2008 Posted March 13, 2008 If you only climb 5.7, is climbing to the top of the Chief really on your tick-list? umm ya..have you ever seen the traffic on The buttress, UE or Upper Echelon It was responsible for lots of crap all over Millenium Falcon, Rutageba, Yup and he came back and cleaned them up I climbed on or around those routes a few times last year the only real problem with this route is that it lies in the falcon closure and may not get the traffic it needs to keep it clean..then again there are alot of 5.7 climbers that this will appeal too, so we will see Quote
stinkyclimber Posted March 13, 2008 Posted March 13, 2008 If you only climb 5.7, is climbing to the top of the Chief on a 10+ pitch route really on your tick-list? Perhaps it is, but I'd guess that most folks with their sights set that high probably have technical abilities that will make this route seem like a mundane or pedestrian dirty jungle. Well, witness the popularity of all the sub-9 routes on the Apron, and of the Butress (which by pulling on gear can be climbed by almost all by the newest leader, and for parts of it is quite jungle-like). Europa is not a step up or down really from the 9s on the Apron, nor the Buttress. What it may do is help spread everyone around a little more and keep down crowding. Also, one of my favourite routes of all time is the W ridge of Pigeon, and it is "only" 5.4. I love it and it is always on my tick list even though it is well below my abilities. Europa may be the same to many other people. Topping out on the chief or any large formation is usually fun for all but the most jaded uber-climber. Quote
jmace Posted March 13, 2008 Posted March 13, 2008 Pitch 4 - This pitch starts with a large and very helpful tree that provides a route up what would otherwise be a section that is stiffer than the climb is supposed to be." Ya like climbing trees in squamish is so unheard of..like the tree on tantalus wall to over come the roof, or the old start to angels crest.. I would rather see big cedar trees stay and get rid of the bush Quote
gertlush Posted March 13, 2008 Posted March 13, 2008 Still no explanation what is that thing in the picture, Flamethrower? Jetpack? Quote
dberdinka Posted March 13, 2008 Author Posted March 13, 2008 It's a 140lb air compressor for.... god knows what? 8,000 Dollars !!! Quote
jmace Posted March 13, 2008 Posted March 13, 2008 For tools and maybe for removing tree stumps that the other new router decided to chop but not remove I think its above 10 000 dollars now, unfortunately most of the story is missing this has been going on for quite a while now. Quote
dbrannon Posted March 13, 2008 Posted March 13, 2008 pneumatic drill. Its a new compressor route. Quote
dberdinka Posted March 13, 2008 Author Posted March 13, 2008 (edited) 10,000 Dollars !!! Edited March 13, 2008 by dberdinka Quote
olyclimber Posted March 13, 2008 Posted March 13, 2008 Wow, I can't imagine going to a Bank officer and saying..."hey, I need $4,000 so I can put up this new route". Maybe if you were going to have a toll booth to get on the route.... Quote
KingsMM Posted March 13, 2008 Posted March 13, 2008 If they want to put out the effort I'd say more power to them. Quote
hafilax Posted March 13, 2008 Posted March 13, 2008 I'm surprised nobody's jumped on the bolt ladder on the 6th pitch. Apparently the slab under the crack goes at 10c or so but I'm not sure that anyone has freed it yet. It's hard to imagine good climbing coming out of something called Crap Crags. If it isn't nice it will be hard to keep the Europa name attached. I just hope the monumental effort involved is worthwhile and that it doesn't turn into a White Elephant. Jeff must have felt that once the project was started that it must be completed. I hope he gets some of the $6000 back. There's no way I would ever take out a loan to clean up a route but to each his own... Quote
tradclimbguy Posted March 13, 2008 Posted March 13, 2008 I thought about mentioning that right off the bat but thought it a worthless endeavor into the land of spray. The Grand has a bolt ladder on it yet it goes free. Right or wrong, it is what it is, right. So I figured since the route isn't finished and since I've not been on it I'd reserve comments and/or assumptions until it was finished. My gut feeling is that it's sort of lame to put up such a new route and toss in a bolt ladder unless its grade 5.whatever... but thats subjective to how hard you climb and to what level you feel a bolt ladder is justified. If it is truly a 5.7 then I probably shouldn't belittle the ladder even if 10c, as you say, is about as easy as a 7 anyway for me. So I'm going to continue to leave this one sit and pass judgement on it after I get on the route and see for myself. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted March 13, 2008 Posted March 13, 2008 I am not sure I can wait until I get on the route to pass judgement! Quote
jmace Posted March 13, 2008 Posted March 13, 2008 It's hard to imagine good climbing coming out of something called Crap Crags Ive heard good things about Crap Crags from folks who have climbed it..sounds like a grand adventure Quote
John Frieh Posted March 13, 2008 Posted March 13, 2008 5.7? 10 pitches? Built for newbies? Sounds like the future home of 8,000 dollars worth of booty! In the first year alone! :laf: Quote
jmace Posted March 13, 2008 Posted March 13, 2008 all said and done there is something like 4-6 weeks that its probably dry and open for climbing so... Quote
fern Posted March 13, 2008 Posted March 13, 2008 Crap Crags was a fine adventure route. The trees made for consistent shady belays on a sunny exposure, the 5.7+ grade was fair compared to WA Pass or Snow Ck Wall, but not consistent with Smoke Bluffs grading. I think it is misguided to think that trees need to be removed en masse to create or improve a route. Quote
hafilax Posted March 13, 2008 Posted March 13, 2008 Ive heard good things about Crap Crags from folks who have climbed it..sounds like a grand adventure Adventures... make you late for dinner. -Bilbo Baggins I only know a couple of people that headed up there and they turned back quickly. I'll give it a go at some point. I'd hate to see all that effort put to waste and I guess it's the most logical line with the goal of an easy climb up the Chief. Quote
billcoe Posted March 13, 2008 Posted March 13, 2008 Looks like a great line with plenty of natural stuff to tie off! I think Canadians just have a different mindset somewhat. I remember being up there in the 80's right after they'd drilled the 1-2" diameter holes that huge Columbia (?) Boulder to manufacture an entire 40 foot route on an otherwise overhanging featureless boulder face. Then they'd taken 2 x 4's and run them out over the top and covered it with plastic to keep it dry, and then they rap bolted it:-)! Then they put out a guest book where you could sign in and put who you were, where you were from, and what your comments were. Invariably all the Americans had comments that ranged from "this sucks you dickheads" to "How could you do this as this sucks very big you dickheads" or comments generally along those lines, while almost all of the Canadians were supportive and had positive comments. Sort of a precursor to the OJ thing where it seemed like most blacks thought he was innocent while most whites thought he was guilty. Nice to see they are only cleaning vegetation out here, thats a massive effort for sure - good luck with it! Quote
gertlush Posted March 13, 2008 Posted March 13, 2008 May I also recommend the North Gully? Suitable only for the most discerning of adventurers, you won't be disappointed Quote
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