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Posted (edited)

I think the thing is, Minnesota guy, (or anyone) that you need to not be GOAL oriented, but process oriented. Especially in the winter where the weather can just suck donkey balls.

 

If you come out here from Minn with a goal of summiting, you may be tempted to squeeze in the summit and elevate your risk by ignoring things you need to be paying attention too, like the fellas last year.

 

If you come out to hang with your bros and to enjoy some climbing, and are thinking "process" and not "Goal", then you (in my mind) increase the odds that you'll have a balls deep time of it and beautiful memories for years to come. It's like the guy Anderl says to Jonathon in the Eiger Sanction, "Jonathan, you're very good. I have enjoyed climbing with you."

 

Dude is all about enjoying the climbing, the process.

 

I don't know if that made sense.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Maybe I should say it again?

 

How about just hooking up with an existing CC.comer some of these dudes seem to get up there all the time and survive some heinous shit (search for recent Hood trip reports from which will shrink your testicals).

Edited by billcoe
Posted

To wit: last December, weekend before the "Lost Climbers on Hood" storm-of-the-year began, conditions couldn't have been better than the styrofoam snow and clear blue skies at the SS ...

Hood_HB5_Christina_Dec_3_06.jpg

Hood_HB2_Dec_3_06.jpg

Posted

Drive out in the afternoon, post up in tilly jane, rage a fire and stay for free and leave really early in the morning up coopers spur or the sunshine and ski snow board down the south side through the old chute. DUuuhhh!

Posted
Can someone recommend a good source for Hood weather and avalanche conditions?

 

Thanks

the "articles and resources" button at the page-top *might* be a good place to start :P

Posted (edited)

Does anybody know if there is much avalanche danger on that south route? Obviously not much next to the lifts, but what about above? In the hogsback/pearly gates area?

 

i.e.: Is it a good/safe way to get a climb in when avy danger forecasts are high?

Edited by PeterfromLFP
Posted

That would be a solid "No". The avi conditions on the SS are a little more mellow, but that don't make it a good idea when there are poor conditions. Hood's fun, but not worth dying for. Let shit settle up a bit then giv'er.

Posted

The east face of Crater Rock is the hairiest part of the climb. That's just as you enter the Devils Kitchen area. I believe the elevation is around 10200. The route runs right up against Crater Rock on the left and the snow is frequently deposited deeply on a 35° slope just above the route.

 

The crazy thing about the Crater Rock/Chute area is the loading can vary drastically during the course of the day, since the wind shifts around in there depending on the prevailing winds on the mountain. So the east facing slopes and SW facing chute can be totally loaded or bomber depending on the recent precip and wind patterns.

 

There are really no safe routes right after a decent storm. You can probably sneak over the south shoulder of Crater rock if you have to, but it's best to let it settle after a big dump. Now, if it's a small dump on a solid base then take your skis.

 

 

 

Posted

Wow! Its amazing how fast the Hogsback is reforming and things are filling back in. It was pretty decimated this past summer and I thought the "old chute" would be the new route for years to come. Thanks for the pic.

Posted

Good info on ava for the NW @ this site http://www.nwac.us/products/SABNW

 

Gotta have your shit together to do a winter ascent of mt hood and survive it. Especially this year...

 

"Currently living in Minnesota has limited my resources. Also, what are some possible ski/snowboard decent routes? Past trip reports, etc?

"

 

Some good climbers met their end up there just last year. They were from out of town too.

 

Here we go again...

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