Eliminating a P.I.T.A. on Astro Monkey

[new2ctownclimbr]

Climbed the first 3 pitches of Astro Monkey at Smith Rocks on Saturday. The route starts at the base of the west face. 11d, 9, 11a to Bonn Street, trad with a few bolts on the 11d pitch. The trouble occured on the 3rd pitch. An overhanging, left leaning 11a crack. I was aware that if the follower fell after cleaning a piece she might have some trouble getting reestablished in the crack to continue upwards but for most of the way she would be able to friction off the left wall to pendulum herself back into the crack. At the end of the crack you have to pull through a short roof with a bolt just past the lip of the roof. She fell after cleaning gear from the crack and ended up dangling about 4 feet below the roof and below the bolt. I was belaying about 40 feet above the roof and couldn't see her but knew she wasn't making any progress. I had her belayed on a Black Diamond Guide which is similar to the Petzl Reverso. The belay device was fixed to the anchor so I used the extra rope to rap down to her and assist her in surmounting the roof. Whew! Long story short, we both made it to Bonn Street but I was wondering if anyone has any tactics for avoiding said mini epic. Feel free to ask any questions for a clearer picture of the scenario. Nothing dangerous occured but it took a while to sort things out. Thanks everyone!

[dan_forester]

if I was hanging in space & couldn't get back on the rock I'd think about using my prussiks to get past the difficulty.

 

how exactly did you (on rappel) help her get over the roof?

[new2ctownclimbr]

That's probably the easiest solution but she wasn't prepared for that. I had a couple of Tiblocs in my pack but I left them on the ground. I used our trail rope to rap down to her since she was locked onto the belay. After that it's a long and complicated story. It only took about 10 minutes once I reached her to get her over the lip of the roof. I was able to yard her up while she grabbed my hand. Sorry for the vagueness. Basically it would have been easier if she was able to ascend using the tiblocs or prusiks but we hadn't discussed it beforehand. I know it sounds silly. Thanks for your help.

[Alex]

a prussik or two could have helped her get the few feet up she needed to get.

[spotly]

How'd you get back over the roof? If she was unable to make it back into the crack following, how'd you do it on rappell? Who belayed whom back up the 44 feet to the anchor...and how?

 

I'd think the best option would be for her to prussik over the roof. Short of that, since you were only 44 feet above her, set up a pully system and haul her up - that would suck.

 

Why wasn't she able to ascend the rope on her own?

[new2ctownclimbr]

I only rappelled to the lip of the roof but was close enough to grab her and help her reach some decent holds. I was able to pull the slack through the belay device that was fixed to the anchor 40 feet above because I had the other side of the rope she was tied to. I could have pulled in the slack as she continued to the anchor or climbed up first and then pulled the slack through the belay device like I had been doing before she was stuck. I opted to return to the anchor first and continue belaying her from there. After you passed the roof the climbing was only maybe 5.6. I guess the situation is a little confusing. If you had climbed the route before you would have an easier time visualizing the situation. BTW, I would recommend this route to anyone who has 5.11 crack climbing skills. The 3rd pitch was exciting and exposed with good protection. Just make sure your second is prepared.

[hafilax]

I've never tried it but I found this at 8a.nu while procrastinating one day.

 

Circus Rope Trick

 

Seems to require being able to do a rope pullup to get it started though.

[catbirdseat]

Damn, she's hotter than a pistol!

 

So when you rapped down after the Guide locked up, I assume you tied a back up knot?

[ivan]

having some sorta prusik material on both climbers when doing multi-pitch stuff is pretty basic safety advice - the follower needs to be able to prusik is exactly those sort of situations, and the belayer needs to be able to tie off/escape the belay in order to render help/first aid too.

[Kat_Roslyn]

new2ctownclimberer,

I had this kind of thing happen to me, the belayer was also using the guide and I swung on the an overhanging face, and couldn't swing back and make the move. With no slings on the gear I had cleaned, Fortunately I had a belt made out of webbing on that I took off & used to prus up. I still don't carry prussiks.

[pms]

Kat Roslyn you rock!

[MCash]

I like the chalky pants, really compliments the outfit.

 

[new2ctownclimbr]

Thanks for everyone's participation. Although I would have liked to see more pictures;) I'm going to try and complete my knowledge as a climber so I'm not going into things overly optimistic. Here's a picture of the 3rd pitch

[ivan]

new2ctownclimberer,

I had this kind of thing happen to me, the belayer was also using the guide and I swung on the an overhanging face, and couldn't swing back and make the move. With no slings on the gear I had cleaned, Fortunately I had a belt made out of webbing on that I took off & used to prus up. I still don't carry prussiks.

very innovative - at least you didn't have to take your shoes off and try to use the laces!

[counterfeitfake]

very innovative - at least you didn't have to take your shoes off and try to use the laces!

 

James Bond stylee!

[counterfeitfake]

I like the chalky pants, really compliments the outfit.

 

She really got chalk everywhere.

 

[G-spotter]

Somebody got chalk on her, anyway.

[Kat_Roslyn]

Justin,

I like your optimism. I think you should keep it.

[dmuja]

Whoa! she gotz uber good upper bodski

[chris]

I sometimes add a single or double shoulder length sling to the first piece at or after a roof to allow my partner to french free/A0 through the difficulty. On a couple of longer routes I regularly climb I even bring an alpine aider to clip and provide a little more insurance.

 

[counterfeitfake]

Just climb with prussiks. Light, useful.

[fenderfour]

Just climb with prussiks. Light, useful.

 

quit making sense dammit. They are obviously too heavy and will botch the hard send.

[Billy]

Since you were using the ATC Guide, just throw a prussic or a klemheist on the loaded strand and you've got an instant 3:1 haul system. There is a bunch of friction, but I have done it before for short distances.

[northvanclimber]

Since you were using the ATC Guide, just throw a prussic or a klemheist on the loaded strand and you've got an instant 3:1 haul system. There is a bunch of friction, but I have done it before for short distances.

 

i'll second this one, although it's good to first rappel down and check out what's happening to the second. i was once in a similar situation where i was belaying my g/f from the top of a climb and couldn't see her due to an overhang. it was really windy so i couldn't hear her at all and only knew something was wrong when the rope stopped moving for quite a while. i rapped down and found she'd gotten off-route and was facing a big pendulum if she slipped. i managed to coax her back into the route and then re-climbed the rope before putting her back on belay.

 

if i'd simply started to haul her up without checking first, she would've been pulled off her feet and gone for a nasty pendulum for sure....

[new2ctownclimbr]

I sometimes add a single or double shoulder length sling to the first piece at or after a roof to allow my partner to french free/A0 through the difficulty. On a couple of longer routes I regularly climb I even bring an alpine aider to clip and provide a little more insurance.

That seems like a handy tip for sure. Thanks. I'm glad you like my optimism Kat, I'll take your advice then.