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About new2ctownclimbr

  • Rank
  • Birthday 07/12/1974


  • Occupation
    making people salivate
  • Location
    under your skin
  1. Descending from Madsen's Ledge

    Got on the first pitch of Sisu yesterday. Although I didn't manage to send all the moves I was still able to french free to the top. The anchors at the top of the first pitch were bomber but consisted only of two bolts with hangers and three dried out and faded slings without any kind of rap rings or chains. I ended up leaving a new sling and a couple of biners. Wondering if anyone knows of a better way to get off the ledge? I would be willing to add some chain to the hangers if anyone thinks that is a good idea. Also, anyone with stories/personal experiences on this route please feel free to share. Thanks.
  2. Winkie Dinkie Cliff Index

    My dog and I scrambled up to the winkie dink cliff via k cliff last summer. It wasn't bad at all. I thought he wouldn't be able to make it up the steep section just up and right ot k cliff but he charged it. Still, unless you need to bring your dog up there it's probably better to just climb the GNS.
  3. Beginner Trad Rack

    Besides the rack I would suggest studying John Long's books on climbing anchors. Learn how to use your gear properly and efficiently as well as starting out on climbs that are within your limits. Maybe do them as topropes first. However, onsight climbing is the most rewarding and unpredictable.
  4. Index tomorrow?

    The weather looks good and I have day off. Would also consider going to Leavenworth. I can drive. I would be up for doing something on the UTW. D.H.L.A, Heaven's Gate, Tempituous, or whatever.
  5. Eliminating a P.I.T.A. on Astro Monkey

    That seems like a handy tip for sure. Thanks. I'm glad you like my optimism Kat, I'll take your advice then.
  6. Eliminating a P.I.T.A. on Astro Monkey

    Thanks for everyone's participation. Although I would have liked to see more pictures;) I'm going to try and complete my knowledge as a climber so I'm not going into things overly optimistic. Here's a picture of the 3rd pitch
  7. Eliminating a P.I.T.A. on Astro Monkey

    I only rappelled to the lip of the roof but was close enough to grab her and help her reach some decent holds. I was able to pull the slack through the belay device that was fixed to the anchor 40 feet above because I had the other side of the rope she was tied to. I could have pulled in the slack as she continued to the anchor or climbed up first and then pulled the slack through the belay device like I had been doing before she was stuck. I opted to return to the anchor first and continue belaying her from there. After you passed the roof the climbing was only maybe 5.6. I guess the situation is a little confusing. If you had climbed the route before you would have an easier time visualizing the situation. BTW, I would recommend this route to anyone who has 5.11 crack climbing skills. The 3rd pitch was exciting and exposed with good protection. Just make sure your second is prepared.
  8. Eliminating a P.I.T.A. on Astro Monkey

    That's probably the easiest solution but she wasn't prepared for that. I had a couple of Tiblocs in my pack but I left them on the ground. I used our trail rope to rap down to her since she was locked onto the belay. After that it's a long and complicated story. It only took about 10 minutes once I reached her to get her over the lip of the roof. I was able to yard her up while she grabbed my hand. Sorry for the vagueness. Basically it would have been easier if she was able to ascend using the tiblocs or prusiks but we hadn't discussed it beforehand. I know it sounds silly. Thanks for your help.
  9. Climbed the first 3 pitches of Astro Monkey at Smith Rocks on Saturday. The route starts at the base of the west face. 11d, 9, 11a to Bonn Street, trad with a few bolts on the 11d pitch. The trouble occured on the 3rd pitch. An overhanging, left leaning 11a crack. I was aware that if the follower fell after cleaning a piece she might have some trouble getting reestablished in the crack to continue upwards but for most of the way she would be able to friction off the left wall to pendulum herself back into the crack. At the end of the crack you have to pull through a short roof with a bolt just past the lip of the roof. She fell after cleaning gear from the crack and ended up dangling about 4 feet below the roof and below the bolt. I was belaying about 40 feet above the roof and couldn't see her but knew she wasn't making any progress. I had her belayed on a Black Diamond Guide which is similar to the Petzl Reverso. The belay device was fixed to the anchor so I used the extra rope to rap down to her and assist her in surmounting the roof. Whew! Long story short, we both made it to Bonn Street but I was wondering if anyone has any tactics for avoiding said mini epic. Feel free to ask any questions for a clearer picture of the scenario. Nothing dangerous occured but it took a while to sort things out. Thanks everyone!
  10. medium patagonia shirt at Index

    I found this shirt on a ledge near the start of Tatoosh. If you describe the color I would like to return it. PM me for more info.
  11. Sport v Trad

    Trad climbing's fun, sport climbing's fun, bouldering's fun. Just count yourself lucky to be climbing and not worrying about getting your next meal or a roof over your head. If you have a problem with someone's preferred method of fun simply because you think what you do is superiour then you're an asshole who doesn't deserve to have any fun. If you're enjoying yourself then you might enlighten others but if you take yourself too seriously you're only going to isolate yourself. Unless that's what you want to happen.
  12. Resoling Climbing Shoes

    The Rubber Room in Bishop, CA. Rubberroomresoles.com Just got 3 pairs back from there for 110 bucks and it only took 2 weeks. It might be more money if you need rand work but check the website for details. Anyway, I have used them for almost 14 years and they always do good work.
  13. Index on Tuesday

    Anyone want to go to Index tomorrow/today? I can drive. I'm hoping to leave by noon. As far as climbs go I would be up for single or multi pitch, have my own rack, and lead up to upper 11's, trad or bolts. I also have a cool dog that will be coming with.
  14. Exit 32 weekday mornings

    I'm looking for someone who wants to climb at exit 32 during the week. I have work at 2pm so we would have to leave there by 1 or so. I'm hoping to go once a week. Otherwise I have sunday and tuesday off for a full day of climbing. I've been doing a lot of climbing at Index but am hoping to climb one day a week at exit 32 because it's closer and I want to climb more than two days a week. As long as you are a safe climber/belayer I don't care what grades you climb. I have a car and would be willing to do the driving.
  15. Index Tues- Wed. 8/7-8/8

    I'm going out there tuesday afternoon if all goes well. I'll look for you if you haven't found a partner yet. I've only climbed one route at the UTW so far, "Heaven's Gate", very nice route. I'm up for whatever but have a few routes at the LTW I would like to try.