Crampon Attachment Preferences

[Greg_W]

I am planning on buying my first pair of crampons in the near future and am looking for some insight on attachment systems. I am planning on using them for some moderate ice climbing and glacier slogging. Is a wire toebail preferred to a strap system or vice versa? I currently have a pair of plastics, but see where I am going to probably buy a pair of leathers for warmer season stuff.

 

TIA

 

Greg W

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

 

Nuff said.

[Highlander]

The plastic toe strap will fit more types of boots.

[Greg_W]

Sabertooth Clip

 

What about the sabertooth clip-type binding?

 

[ 11-07-2002, 02:54 PM: Message edited by: Greg W ]

[Greg_W]

quote:

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Originally posted by Highlander:

The plastic toe strap will fit more types of boots.

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That's what I was thinking.

[Cpt.Caveman]

Wire toe bails seem to be more prone to failure from my experience. They are great for vertical ice climbing.

 

I recommend something like this

 

 

I have the step in heel binding with the plastic toe but it's not much different. Works better on my plastics. Sometimes certain crampoons will not fit certain boots as well.

 

[ 11-07-2002, 02:56 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

[Highlander]

quote:

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Originally posted by Greg W:

quote:

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Originally posted by Highlander:

The plastic toe strap will fit more types of boots.

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That's what I was thinking.

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Stubai makes some nice crampons. I love my stubai allumniums, they even fit on my running shoes. I like my M10's for going vertical. BD Sabertooth looks like it might be a good workhorse crampon. You will soon find out that you will want a light crampon for the slogs, and an aggressive crampon for ice climbing.

[snoboy]

quote:

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Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

Sometimes certain crampoons will not fit certain boots as well.

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So make sure you choose boots first and try the crampons on them before you buy!!

[mattp]

Greg, I don't know a thing about those crampons. But I'd be a litle leery of a "new" Black Diamond product. I have a pair of the Stubai crampons like those pictured above (mine are steel, not aluminum, but the aluminum would probably be better for most general use). For alpine ice climbing, peak climbs, and moderate water ice (up to WI III or so), I like them. You suggested that you don't really plan on focussing on waterfall climbing, and something like that would probably be just fine.

[Cpt.Caveman]

I say go with steel. They bite better. I bent my aluminum poons in the Rockies!

[Greg_W]

Thanks for the input.

[Greg_W]

I was planning on steel. I kinda see the aluminums as a specialty item for going fast 'n' light on spring/summer trips, a la N. Ridge of Stuart, Forbidden, etc.

[thelawgoddess]

yeah, if you're going to want to do any ice, don't get aluminums; definitely go for steel. the "clip" doesn't look any different from the other universal-type plastic toe systems that other companies have used on their crampons for some time now.

[Dru]

Bolts the points to a golf shoe like the cool new wave mixed climbers do

[Greg_W]

quote:

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Originally posted by Dru:

Bolts the points to a golf shoe like the cool new wave mixed climbers do

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I sure would look aggro hiking Mt. Si in them to get in shape now wouldn't I?

[Geek_the_Greek]

I have the step-in sabertooths. They rock - total all arounders, even if they weigh a few grams more than aluminums and are a bit flexy for water ice. It looks like the new bail system is pretty simple and tried and true, even if it's a new item. If that's what you're looking for, a good all around crampon to wear with various boots, I'd say go for it. Looks like you still need the heel welt, though (for the rear step in part) so make sure you're not planning on using them with runners or anything really soft.

[freeclimb9]

Sabertooths would be a great choice for most of your intended use. With plastics and many leather boots, the step-in binding will work, and be easiest to use.

I have a pair of sabertooths, and use them for everything from low angle to vertical ice. Not too useful for glacier slogs, but no crampon is.

[arlen]

My crampons have the step-in toe bail with an additional metal strap that comes over the toe and hooks to the ankle strap. That allows it to catch a lot more snow than the inferior plain bail.

 

The plastic toe widget works on boots that have sticky rubber toe rands, which seem like they'd handle a nice range of summer climbs. I read on some UK board that they can fail if you kick a lot of hard ice.

[mtnnut]

I have a Stubai aluminum crampon with the same harness that Caveman posted the pic of. My conclusion is I would only choose it if you need the capability to use it on boots that that a clip-on binding wouldn't work. The Stubai harness entirely depends on the integrity of the buckle of the strap that you ultimately wrap around your ankle. I was out on a trip with the aluminum ones and the buckle got messed up so it wasn't gripping properly, and I was nearly S.O.L. I had to bend the buckle with a rock to make it work. That experience makes me think I might want to get a different aluminum clip-on to use with my randonee boots.

 

I hadn't seen that Sabertooth with the front yoke and rear bale until that link was posted. Looks like a pretty solid idea. I have one of the standard clip-on Sabertooths, and think it is pretty bomber.

[iain]

I have used the Charlet S12's w/ a wire bail in the front with zero problems for the past 5 years on leather boots, plastics and at's. I have climbed vertical to slightly overhanging alpine ice with them w/o difficulties, though they are marketed for lower-angle stuff. There is no flex if you use a solid shank boot. I highly recommend these crampons, or others like them (Sabertooth wire bail has a slightly more aggressive front 4, so should work even better on steep stuff). They're the only crampons I own, and unless you are doing a lot of extreme waterice (and that's not so common for all but the most dedicated ice climbers in the PNW) I don't see the need for the "new-wave" stuff out there (bionics, etc.) which weigh quite a bit.

[rbw1966]

I'm not sure what the criticism is concerning Sabretooth crampons and the step-in binding system. Its hardly a new design; I've had mine since 1998. They work wonderfully for glacier slogs, and I've used them successfully on vertical ice as well. I can see how on technical routes a vertically oriented front point design might be more beneficial, as well as a rigid crampon. However, for most uses in the PNW the sabretooth is more than adequate. I've never had the binding system fail in any way whereas I've seen the strap-on system fail if the ankle buckle loosens. I've used the sabres on Makalus, T2's and Invernos.

 

They go on quickly as well.

[Cpt.Caveman]

quote:

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Originally posted by rbw1966:

I'm not sure what the criticism is concerning the step-in binding system.

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The subject contains the word preference. And yes I have had the step in toe bail fail on me before.

[freeclimb9]

I've had the step-in sabertooth crampons "fail" in the sense that they've come off a boot when the heel lever wasn't tight enough. That would be "user error". I've never heard of the toe bail actually breaking, though.

[iain]

the main issues I have come across w/ the wire bail is when using a boot that has a very worn sole, leaving only a thin bit of rubber up front to keep the thing on. I've not had it fail, but it's been a bit dodgy at times. I have had a partner have major problems with the wire bail on a rainier climb a few years back. We ended up encasing her foot w/ duct tape to keep it on. That said, I have had zero issues on many different boots w/ the wires. I'm not married to them though, I've heard great things about the grivel system of abs plastic up front.

[mwills]

if you want to buy one crampon i'd vote for the sabertooth. though a bit on the heavy side (34oz), they can be used for everything - moderate/steep ice, snow slogging, mixed. you will see gadd pulling m10 or some weekend warrior front-pointing up the pearly gates.

 

step-in, new matic, or strap-on - that is up to you. depends on the assortment of boots/shoes you plan to where. if you only wear boots that are step-in compatible, get step-ins. i've never heard of the toe-bail "failing". i've seen crampons attached incorrectly, sized wrong, or bails that didn't match the welt on the boot - but no failures.