Rad Posted August 23, 2007 Posted August 23, 2007 I've been wanting to do the grand wall for some time now, but am not strong enough to lead sustained trad 11a yet. Perhaps Triggerhappy may be for me what Hansel is for Porter DHLA is not as long as you might guess. p1 is 90ft. p2 is 100ft (we strung them together with a 60m rope. p3 is about 110ft (that's why people have trouble rapping it w/a single 60). p4 is 70-80ft. p5 is slightly longer, and p6 (5.9) is about 50-60ft. Next time, I'll probably link the last two pitches, though standing on that last ledge Quote
olyclimber Posted August 24, 2007 Posted August 24, 2007 No doubt I'm lucky to climb with Jeff. To be clear, what I mean is I want to be able to follow the Sword cleanly. Quote
Drederek Posted August 24, 2007 Posted August 24, 2007 Following the Sword is much easier than Perry's, be sure to practice your bomb bay OW skills in advance! Quote
pope Posted August 24, 2007 Posted August 24, 2007 Without Cruel Shoes, the Grand Wall is kind of ho-hum. Only the Split Pillar really stands out as spectacular. The best part of the Sword is the 5.8 face climbing between the crux and the belay. Then you're on a bolt trail up to another bolt trail undercling, then you're on a huge ledge which detracts from the exposure. If 5.10+/5.11- is beyond your abilities, climbing Mercy Me and the Split Pillar will allow you to sample the best of the Grand Wall. Otherwise Cruel Shoes definitely makes the Grand Wall a superb climb. Davis Holland to Lovin' Arms is a better 5.10+ climb, especially after pitch 3. Once on Lovin' Arms, the climbing is SPECTACULAR with great rock, solid gear and airy views up the Skykomish. Climb it in late September/early October when the air is crisp and Mt. Index has a dusting of snow for a little bit of preobituary Heaven. I heard second-hand that Dave Morales soloed this route. That's crazy! I've only done the Grand Wall once. Mark Pratt and I climbed via Cruel Shoes with one 45m rope and a pint of water. Five hours later, while I studied the exit at the end of the Belly Good ledge, I saw a blur of light behind me. Apparently Mark was impatient and jumped from a position behind me over the void into the trees with his flip-flops. Quote
TeleRoss Posted August 24, 2007 Posted August 24, 2007 There is no "sustained" 5.11 on the Grand Wall. One move on the Sword pitch, and Perry's is nothing more than 5.10, but that one is sustained, and pumpy. go get on it....it is one of the best routes around. Quote
Rad Posted August 25, 2007 Posted August 25, 2007 Roger that, Ross. Hopefully Squamish in September! Quote
David Trippett Posted August 25, 2007 Author Posted August 25, 2007 There is no "sustained" 5.11 on the Grand Wall. One move on the Sword pitch, and Perry's is nothing more than 5.10, but that one is sustained, and pumpy. go get on it....it is one of the best routes around. agreed!!....just did it again today with a newb in tow and its pretty damn rad... anyone hemming and hawing that leads mid 10s should just go for it Quote
Blake Posted August 28, 2007 Posted August 28, 2007 A couple DH-LA questions... I did it with Avitripp and got to lead the first 4 pitches which were a blast, but he took the last two and I want to go back again soon and lead it all. Is the ".11b" free move to avoid the A0 some total sandbag, or a trick we did not see? How does one do the .10c option above that? (pro in there?) On the last pitch, after the bolt, should you go left or right? Avi went up right and basically ran it out to the top after the bolt. I don't remember hearing anything about the climbing being run-out, so I'm guessing there's a different option. Quote
David Trippett Posted August 28, 2007 Author Posted August 28, 2007 Blake, ....for the 10c variation I think you continue up the chimney a few meters from that belay at the top of the 4th pitch and then bust out right into that horizontal crack, there was plenty gear in it for sure, the first time I did it a couple years back we did it that way..... Good luck if you try the 11b! Why not check out that route Tyree was mentioning? STP? I don't know about the last pitch.....but I know you love big run-outs Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted August 28, 2007 Posted August 28, 2007 The last pitch is supposed to be a bit run out, but you can move left a bit for more pro opportunities. Quote
AJScott Posted August 29, 2007 Posted August 29, 2007 dood, ur pm's are full blake. Wana goto index tomorrow?? give me a call if you get this before I wake up in the morning and call you. I might sleep late if nobody calls me. I sent dan-o a msg too...im up for whatever, but index would be neat. Quote
Cairns Posted August 29, 2007 Posted August 29, 2007 The best part of the Sword is the 5.8 face climbing between the crux and the belay. I guess you mean from the belay to the crux. It isn't face climbing and you are one weird dude. Quote
RuMR Posted August 29, 2007 Posted August 29, 2007 no...he's right...i think he's talking about the climbing after you pull onto the ledge and step out right around the corner on JUGS...its sure as hell not crack climbing...and hell, even the two cruxes aren't really "crack" climbing...your liebacking...the technique of no technique... Quote
pazzo Posted August 29, 2007 Posted August 29, 2007 freeway is the shit, probably my favorite route anywhere. i like the Daily Planet better and Cruel Shoes - Grand Wall - Upper Black Dyke is probably one of the best long climbs in Squamish. Quote
Kat_Roslyn Posted August 29, 2007 Posted August 29, 2007 I like the wonderful thing about tiggers there.One of my favorites anywhere. Quote
Rad Posted August 29, 2007 Posted August 29, 2007 Blake, On the last LA pitch just follow your nose. After you clip the bolt you can go straight up and then left a bit, finishing about 6ft right of the leftmost tree. That's where the bolts/rap station are. There is plenty of pro available for that pitch so I don't think it's R now that it has the bolt. On the second to last pitch of LA, the upper traverse is obvious, as is the lower one. There is plenty of pro. The lower traverse bolt has a nasty sling on it (for A0 or bailing?). We just did the upper traverse. Lastly, you could easily link these two pitches of LA, as they are not that long. Have fun! R Quote
David Trippett Posted August 29, 2007 Author Posted August 29, 2007 freeway is the shit, probably my favorite route anywhere. i like the Daily Planet better and Cruel Shoes - Grand Wall - Upper Black Dyke is probably one of the best long climbs in Squamish. the Planet is ok , Freeway's better..... Cruel Shoes to the Grand to The Roman Chimneys is the way to go Quote
RuMR Posted August 29, 2007 Posted August 29, 2007 how is the planet after the first pitch? that is all we did...it was ok...certainly not 3 or 4 stars though... I honestly thought that little 12a crack to the left of the planet was a better pitch...but whatever... Quote
pope Posted August 31, 2007 Posted August 31, 2007 no...he's right...i think he's talking about the climbing after you pull onto the ledge and step out right around the corner on JUGS...its sure as hell not crack climbing...and hell, even the two cruxes aren't really "crack" climbing...your liebacking...the technique of no technique... I remember after the Sword crux looking up at a knife-blade crack, thinking it looked 5.12 or harder. I didn't even know the route was supposed to stray out of the corner, but it goes out left for some very exposed face climbing on hollow blocks/jugs. Best part was getting back into the corner, just before the belay. I remember placing something blindly around the corner and being freaked out by the fact that I couldn't see it. Somebody told me there's now a bolt protecting the corner re-entry move. True? Shame if there is. That was the coolest thing on the Sword. Quote
David Trippett Posted August 31, 2007 Author Posted August 31, 2007 no...he's right...i think he's talking about the climbing after you pull onto the ledge and step out right around the corner on JUGS...its sure as hell not crack climbing...and hell, even the two cruxes aren't really "crack" climbing...your liebacking...the technique of no technique... I remember after the Sword crux looking up at a knife-blade crack, thinking it looked 5.12 or harder. I didn't even know the route was supposed to stray out of the corner, but it goes out left for some very exposed face climbing on hollow blocks/jugs. Best part was getting back into the corner, just before the belay. I remember placing something blindly around the corner and being freaked out by the fact that I couldn't see it. Somebody told me there's now a bolt protecting the corner re-entry move. True? Shame if there is. That was the coolest thing on the Sword. The bolt after the crux on the sword was placed as part of the belay for the Free Grand, it's not a chicken bolt. There is a reason it's right next to a perfect cam placement and has not been chopped... Quote
pope Posted August 31, 2007 Posted August 31, 2007 I was told there was a bolt right in the area where this fellow is climbing. Tell me it ain't true! Quote
RuMR Posted August 31, 2007 Posted August 31, 2007 i don't recall a bolt there...plenty of gear on those (or around those jugs)... Quote
Sol Posted August 31, 2007 Posted August 31, 2007 it aint true. the bolt protects the move from the ledge above the crux out onto the exposed face climbing with the same blind placements to get back into the corner. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.