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pazzo

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Everything posted by pazzo

  1. Sky Pilot Gear?

    Below are a couple of pics of the Stadium Glaciar on Aug 6th. I brought Kahtoola Microspikes and an axe, but ascended the glacier fairly directly (further left and steeper) compared to other GPS tracks I’ve seen posted online. Without my axe I would have gone for a pretty long ride. I wish I had brought my aluminum Grivel crampons.. Here’s the line I took: And here is the glacier to the right of previous pic: I’m not sure if that helps at all.. good luck!
  2. Mercy Me to the Split Pillar

    For the record you can get descend from the base of Perry's Layback to the ground on a single 70m *There is one steep rap in there but it's quite manageable.
  3. Bwahah. That was FAST ^^
  4. There is NO fine line between a talented music person and a horrible one. Unfortunately one can not say the same about art.
  5. Separete Reality beta

    I’d rather FreeBASE [video:youtube]
  6. Bwahaha. I second your opinion. Granola eating drummers We motel it in Redmond for a reasonable price. Hot showers, Wi-Fi and movies all night make for a comfortable stay.
  7. [TR] Squamish - Freeway 7/15/2011

    Here’s a cool internet photo of the crux roof pitch. It’s not nearly as bad as it looks and is VERY short.
  8. Split Pillar

    Yes you can rap off the top of the Split Pillar (and the Sword and the top of the bolt ladder for that matter) and get safely back to the ground with a single 70m rope. The Split Pillar is around 32 or 33m long if I remember correctly. Start by rappelling off the Pillar to the chains at the base. Then rap to the other lower anchors 20’ down (the bottom of the three-bolt ladder and the belay for the Left Side .12a). From there you have to make a crazy diagonal (climbers left) rappel to a belay on Genius Loci (keep your climbing shoes laced up and be careful as it is quite a sharp angle). From the belay on Genius Loci you rap diagonally left again to the p1 belay on Merci Me. From there you rap to the Flake, where you walk down. Total of five rappels and a scramble down the flake.
  9. new boulder problem near Lions Bay

    That fence that caught the boulder was the best part. Wow. I thought those fences were just there for show and to make the people happy.
  10. The long sling is not required. Just clip each bolt and grab the draw and stand up on the bolt, repeat... The bolt ladder is fairly low-angle and is not hard in this fashion.
  11. barefoot 13d free solo

    Meh. It would be a different issue if he were barefoot soloing a hard crack.
  12. Are you familiar with the “French free” technique to get up the bolt ladder? It is about 30x faster than using aiders and won’t hold up any parties below you. You basically rack your quickdraws on your harness as if you were going to “sport” climb up the bold ladder, but instead you clip the bolt and grab the draw on the dogbone (webbing between the biners) and yard up and clip the next bolt. In between bolts for those big reaches, you step on the bolts like a ladder. You can clip every third or fourth bolt if you want, for protection, or clip every single one if you are scared. You can rest on any of the bolts by clipping the draw into your belay loop once you have yarded up to it. Easy. And best of all you don’t need to bring any extra gear than you have already brought for the Grand. The bolt ladder above the sword should take no more than two minutes to complete if done in this fashion.
  13. Aiders? You weren’t kidding. I can honestly say I’ve never seen that on a free-climb of the Grand. Good job though.
  14. 5.13 Trad Vid

    If that
  15. No it doesn't help. Facebook sucks and many of us aren't on it **Picture an angry mob of climbers marching down the road** PICS OR IT DIDN'T HAPPEN...PICS OR IT DIDN'T HAPPEN...PICS OR..........
  16. Pics or it didn't happen.
  17. Bugaboos conditions

    Crampons?
  18. On lead, placing all gear? Yes.... I should hope so.
  19. Lol. I had a feeling that's what you were talking about
  20. CLASSIC SANDBAG! lol Freeway was a sandbag because he was tired after freeing U-Wall and running down the backside. It is definitely not a sandbag when you're fresh.
  21. Now you're focusing on the real stuff. This climbing will make you tough - falling off Bruce Lee vs... will not
  22. Dude your focus right now should be on feeing Cobra Crack. How can you find time to waste on this climb when you should be on that? You have some stiff competition right now back there on Cobra (TC and AH) gunning for the 7th and 8th ascent(?). Get to it
  23. Nobody here is picking on Marc. We were just bugging him! I am sure he is a great person and super stoked for others to try his projects As for releasing the topo, etc... Who gives a SHIT about that. We are all lucky that there is even a new moderate route to climb which actually tops out on the Chief. If the FA party want you to stay off the unclimbed stuff then STAY OFF IT. Simple as that. For those of you who haven't read this article by Chris Sharma, give it a go... http://englishdailaojeda.blogspot.com/2010/03/first-respect-first-minute.html He goes on about showing respect towards those people who first cleaned/equipped a climb and are about to FFA it. It's a pretty good read if anything.
  24. No. You are from Agassiz and people from there are not allowed to try this route until further notice Mike and I are going to work it when he gets back next week
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