David Trippett Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 The Grand Wall proper(from the top of Mercy Me to Belly Good) has been touted as one of the classic hard moderates of N. America. IMHO, as a line the Grand Wall leaves a lot to be desired, no one will argue the classic nature of several pitches....but as a line DHLA takes the prize, the view is fantastic, the climbing consistently steep and high quality...and no bolt ladders. If you're climbing 13s then perhaps a different argument could be made.....but you're not, or you would be out climbing and not reading this garbage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 What is DHLA? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Davis Holland -> Lovin Arms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 But how would you rate the individual pitches between the two? I haven't climbed the Grand Wall yet, but the Pillar and the Sword look pretty nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Trippett Posted August 23, 2007 Author Share Posted August 23, 2007 Pillar and Sword are 5 star....and better than any individual pitches on DHLA .... IMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lithophiliac Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Having done both several times, there is no way that DHLA beats the Grand, especially if you do Apron Strings and Cruel Shoes. Only the second pitch of DHLA even comes close to the Sword or Apron Strings and the Split Pillar pitch can't be beat by any pitch on the West Coast IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Apron strings first pitch definitely is fun to climb. Overall, I do have to admit I like the Upper Town Wall setting better though just because it is a little more rural...and also because I'm an Index homer. But the rock quality is another topic, and I can't wait to get up to the Pillar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lithophiliac Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Porter, you should get on that one asap. It is the most amazing pitch as well as perfectly placed in a sea of incredible granite!! If you try to lay back the whole thing its supposed to be quite rad, I've always whimped and started jamming despite other intentions at the start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Trippett Posted August 23, 2007 Author Share Posted August 23, 2007 The point here is not to slag off on the Grand, but to credit what a fantastic route is DHLA.....The Grand is great..... and my opinion is not shared by many, but DHLA is a better line....one of the best on granite at the grade in the west.... Adding Cruel Shoes/Apron Strings and the Chimneys makes for a super classic day.....but they're not part of the Grand proper Every pitch on DHLA is arguably a classic, whereas the Grand is puncuated by bolt ladders and jingly-jangs that , for me, detract from the overall quality of the route. At any rate....You can't go wrong with either route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hefeweizen Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Would it change your opinion if you started the Grand with cruel shoes and finished up the roman chimney's? I know that may change the scope as the chimneys go at .11d or something, but it would be a much more aesthetic finish then squirming off at Bellygood (which is what I did). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Porter, you should get on that one asap. It is the most amazing pitch as well as perfectly placed in a sea of incredible granite!! If you try to lay back the whole thing its supposed to be quite rad, I've always whimped and started jamming despite other intentions at the start. I will, but gotta get ready for that sword pitch. I don't want to totally flail up it...just minor flailing would be much better. Still recovering... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lithophiliac Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Well you already know where I stand. But I have always wanted to do the roman chimneys as well. I thought there was an .11a variation to avoid the .11d? Either way, talking to my friends who have done the entire thing (Cruel shoes to Grand to Roman Chimneys), they shouldn't be missed, you just have to have the gumption to keep going instead of bail off bellygood as I have always done also. Someday.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Trippett Posted August 23, 2007 Author Share Posted August 23, 2007 yes, and I think that's the best way to do it.....but those aren't part of "the Grand" no shame in taking Bellygood off....that's a classic pitch! Try it facing out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lithophiliac Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 BTW, not to hijack the thread but... I had the chance to do Freeway a few years back and that, while much more sustained than either the Grand or DHLA, is another incredible line. Probably my proudest send to date. I must admit that DHLA is an incredible route. I did it about a month ago and am still beaming from the fun. My buddy lead the second pitch of Davis Holland as his first 5.10 trad lead. Talk about starting at the top!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hefeweizen Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 How long does it take car to car to do DHLA if you're in reasonable shape and can onsight .10+ trad? I'm trying to determine if I can fit it in after work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Trippett Posted August 23, 2007 Author Share Posted August 23, 2007 freeway is the shit, probably my favorite route anywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Trippett Posted August 23, 2007 Author Share Posted August 23, 2007 BTW....has DHLA been soloed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 How long does it take car to car to do DHLA if you're in reasonable shape and can onsight .10+ trad? I'm trying to determine if I can fit it in after work. If you didn't know this all already: It's six pitches, four tens sandwiched between two nines, almost exclusively gear protected, bolted belays. Twenty to thirty minute hike, rappel descent. You should be able to figure it out from that I hope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lithophiliac Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Yes, DHLA has been soloed... by Gregg Child I think, but don't quote me on that. I know it was back in the late 80's/early 90's but I can't remember by who. I think Smoot talks about it in the old Washington Rock Book. As for DHLA we did it in 6.5 hours and that was moving slow as I was with my new trad leader friend. Definitely take the Lower Town wall approach, not the rail road track one as for Centerfold. If you had head lamps, the decent wouldn't be too bad if it was after dark I don't think. I wouldn't want to have to lead that last 5.9 in the dark however. I do know you could easily bail (rap w/ 2 60 m's) from anywhere but the last two pitches if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Trippett Posted August 23, 2007 Author Share Posted August 23, 2007 a single 70 will get you all the way down without problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/index/itwfa.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lunger Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 i hear-tell that a certain superdave has those wheaties for breakfast, then walks off... the comparison is tough, what you give up on Grand (continuity of line) is made up for by the length, and ***** climbing on many pitches. as said, both are awesome; but for us Puget Sounders, access to DHLA scores it points too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Trippett Posted August 23, 2007 Author Share Posted August 23, 2007 they're both 6 pitches...yes? I bet they're roughly the same length. Grand=traverse, pillar, sword, perry's, flats, sail flake (+bolt ladders) DHLA=5.9,10a,10c,10b,10c(high traverse),5.9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyree Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 The way to make DHLA "better" is to do the 2p.(11b/c,11a) Sensless Thoughts of Paranoia variation. Travese right from the top of p.3 of DHLA to some hard face climbing on bolts to a 5.11 crack. Then the next pich starts out thin crack to a bulge then more fun face climbing on bolts. Very good, I recomend STOP as a good alternative to the regular DHLA if you are up to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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