[TR] Buck mountain Failure...Buck Creek Basin shwa

[tazz]

Trip: Buck mountain Failure...Buck Creek Basin shwack

Date: 7/18/2007

 

Trip Report:

My plans were to climb Buck Mountain. It is a great trip for me to try solo. I got some great beta and was completely comfortable doing the trip solo. I failed! No, not due to skill level or physical level. It was a bit of stupidity, no drive and no enthusiasm for a solo climb. This is my first solo off trail scramble. I have no trouble posting trs about my failures (I learn from it), so I figured I would share it here cause I got some OK images. Here is the report...

 

Solo sucks! I loose all motivation to climb. Solo is just no fun for me. I will hike solo but will never again do a climb/scramble solo. It is so boring and lonely. I always have partners but my partners where either busy with other climbs, life , or sick as hell. Starting Friday night I was seriously thinking about not going solo. Sat morning I had the same thoughts. My heart was just not in doing a solo climb. I sat around and dilly dallied trying to decide. . I kept telling myself “it will be good for ya to do a challenging solo.” Finally decided to leave the house. WAY to late for this trip but I figured hey even if I get the route finding and bushwhack done then that will be a good accomplishment. I didn’t start down the trail till after Noon!!

 

I hoofed It up the flat ass Buck creek trail listening to my ipod.

 

 

 

 

 

Around 4300-4400' it is time to cross the creek. I was a bit worried about how I would do this as I had no beta on a log or a jam and it was full and moving fast. I trashed down to the river and spent a bit of time looking for a safe place. Headed down stream then back up stream till I found an friendly old log jam.

 

Crossed it easily and then the fun begins!

 

 

Some class 3 root, duff and rock scramble to get up over the small cliff/embankment. At the top of I turned to get a look at where I need to come back down to find the logs again. As I turned to head out I run smack dab into flagging. Sweet, that will help on my way back! Now the shwack begins.

 

Heading South I work my way to the East ridge of Cleator. The brush and downfall got worse and worse the closer to the ridge. It took me a good amount of time picking and thrashing my way through it. Then once on the ridge proper the going gets a bit better. I headed west strait up the ridge. Reaching it at 4700'. The going was not bad but it was steep and slow with the pack and weaving through the forest.

 

At around 5800' There is a way off the ridge from an old camp to access the basin. This involves brush. I missed the camp at first, mainly cause I was going to explore higher. I had beta the there is some class 3 gullies to gain access to the basin up higher. This avoids the brush. I figured I would head up to see what the gullies look like. As I reached 6000' it opened up in to meadows with great views. Around 6200' I found a gully and then another and another. Some are very sketch but a couple of the others looked to be not that bad. The only problem I had was I could not see the bottom. I didn’t want to scramble down with a full pack and then get cliffed out and have to climb back up. Not!

 

I took a long break here. The views of the North face of Buck are incredible!

 

 

 

I did notice the place that I was headed for camp still had a lot of snow. I was hoping it would be thawed.

 

 

I checked out the route. I could see the ramp I needed to get around the E. Buttress of Berge. Sweet! The hard part was over now.

 

I was bored as shit! Nothing like being truly ALONE in the middle of the mountains. Yuck! I sat for a while trying to decide which way I was going to take. I decided not to push my luck. I packed up and started to descend to find the camp. After some thrashing in steep forest and brush. (Next time stay to the left not the right!) I found the old camp at around 5775. I reached for my camera to take a pic of the tarps. WHAT THE FUCK! No camera! Good time to be solo! I think I called myself every name in the book! This idiot left her camera sitting 400' up on a rock . I was pissed and it was getting later. At this time I had plenty of time to make it to camp but If I retrieve my camera I might be pushing it with time. So I figured I would climb back up the ridge get my camera and camp up there. I really liked the views and that way I can get up early and do a light and faster accent from here. I liked idea of not having the heavy pack for the ramp. So it was decided. I would camp on this ridge. This camera deal is what burst my climbing bubble.

 

I set up my bivy and took my dinner and scrambled up a few more hundred feet to a great spot. This is a really nice ridge with some incredible views all around.

 

 

 

Sunset was fizzling due to too many clouds. I decided to head back down to camp. The ipod and whiskey made this solo crap a bit easier... I hit the sac a t 10:30pm. I was still planning on climbing but my heart was still not all in it. It was hard to shake that feeling.

 

I woke up around 5:00 and watch a great sunrise display over Seven Finger Jack.

 

 

 

I was tired and I decided to lay down for maybe another 30-60 minutes. I never sleep past 6-7 anyways. This was a huge mistake. I woke up at 10am ! I NEVER sleep that late. Not since friggen high school. I am huge morning person. I was pissed and baffled that I slept that long. Good thing I was solo at the moment the F bombs where flying! I still had to make breakfast, break camp and head back down the ridge to the 5800' camp and unload my pack. Dammit this completely took the wind out of my sails. If I pushed hard I might be able to pull it off but I really didn’t want to rush and push it in the terrain I was in. That is when I would make a mistake and get hurt. Again my heart was not all in it. I had no problem canning it. Yup I said screw it....SAD! I did want to at least get into the basin to explore the route more. I ate breakfast and headed down to the old camp.

 

There is a tiny path that does a descending traverse along the ridge. It is hard to keep the path. I had no problem running into it again and again though. The brush is not bad at all. After going through a swath of alder you are deposited in an incredible basin Waterfalls and flowers everywhere!

 

I climbed up to 6300' where one would start to traverse the basin to the E buttress of Berge. I filled my water and took a very long break. What a beautiful place.

 

 

It was time to go!

 

I headed back the way I came and found my overnight gear where I left it at the camp. Packed up and was on my way. The ridge for some reason seemed harder to navigate on the way down. Especially down where it starts to broaden. I had no troubles but it was time consuming. I had no trouble dumping myself right back at the log crossing. Took a break and took the damn boot off and wore my keens to the TH!

 

Although disappointed in myself for not finding the drive or enthusiasm. It was a really great trip out. I learned a lot about myself this weekend so maybe it is good I went solo. I learned to NEVER go solo again. It sucks and loose all motivation and drive that I normally have. Set my friggen alarm! I am able to navigate off trail in the mountains quite well. This was my first solo bushwhack/ off trail trip. I am happy that I had no trouble staying on route at all. I admire those who can go out there solo and not go crazy from boredom! I like solitude but climbing is where I have to have partners around.

 

I want to Thank Tom Sjolseth for the idea and beta. I will be going back in sept or oct for the larch display. With partners !

 

I saw not ONE person on this trip...not even on the 4.5 miles of trail.

Edited July 18, 2007 by tazz

[i_like_sun]

Yeah, the swack up to Buck is MURDER. I've found it all worth it however. Seriously, that area is so beautiful it could be considered a "shangrala" in my book!

 

I'm sorry you were so "bored as shit". I think a solo up there could be a beautiful time! Each to thier own though. Good companionship is really what makes climbing such a great thing.

[Telemack]

We all have had non-ascents like this, welcome to the club.

I find it often gets me motivated for the next effort, whether that turns out to be a similar goal or not. Keep on pushin'.

[goatboy]

Great photos. The rock up there looks great! ???

[jordansahls]

Yea, sounds familiar. I went out with a couple friends to climb Buck via the King Lake Route. We only got maybe 300 feet up the bush whack when we were assailed by a whole swarm of ground bees. We got the shit stung out of us. Needless to say it was a bad, yet very funny trip. Better luck next time!

[jcocci]

Wow, Buck looks like a great place, may have to add that one to the list. I know what you mean about being bored when by yourself. I have done many hiking trips solo and usually have no problems with it. I had Monday and Tuesday off so I decided to go for a hike up to Robin Lakes solo to spend the night on Monday and had the same feeling. There wasn't anyone around for miles which was a cool feeling as well as a bit eerie. Got pretty bored after a while as well. It didn't help that the bugs were relentless and you couldn't sit still for more tan 2 seconds without being absolutely swarmed.

[Toast]

You're still a rad chica

[telemarker]

Kyle Flick and I climbed Berge a couple years ago, looks like the similar approach. We found it relatively straight forward. If you hike below Berge, you can scramble up easy slabs to the col between Berge and Buck. From there, it's a nice pumice field up the backside of Buck Mtn. Beautiful area! Nice pictures!

[dbconlin]

Thanks for sharing. Great photos!

 

From my own (and few) solo adventures, I have noticed that I tend to second-guess my decisions a lot when alone, usually in regards to route finding or objective hazard assessment. When there is someone else there to kind of double-check what you are thinking it makes it so much easier. "Yeah, we agree, lets do it!" versus "should I or shouldn't I" or "this way or that" all by yourself.

[Blake]

That ridge on Buck looks so classic! too bad it just isn't...

[plexus]

Looking at the photos you took, I don't think your trip was a failure. You just reassessed your objective, that's all.

[tazz]

Thanks all!

 

yeah that bushwhack to the ridge is a bitch! On the ridge it is much easier going.

 

telemarker...That is the route I was on. The crux of the entire climb would have been getting around the E buttress of Berge on an exposed ramp. That would have been the sketchiest part, if at all. It is a good strait forward route.

 

Goatboy... Not sure about the rock. It does look good and I have been told it is. But then I have also read it is loose on certain routes.

 

Jordan...Hi! Hey how was the King Lake route (other than the bees...heh)? Isn't that C4-5. It looks like a fun route.

 

Toast...Ahhh your sweet!

 

db...That is exactly it. I would second guess myself the whole time. I was comfortable with my route finding but it is so much better when ya got a partner to share it with.

 

I will get back up there for this puppy! The area is incredible.

Larch season it will be spectacular!!

 

[i_like_sun]

That ridge on Buck looks so classic! too bad it just isn't...

 

 

 

Well, Blake, hmmmm, actually, it is! I know Buck isn't the most epic rock climb in the world, but dude, it is SOOOO god damn beautiful up there! I have never in my life seen medows so pristine and untouched......... seriously, you NEVER see any footprints up there.

 

 

My buddy the ASS MAN can attest to this.

[Kat_Roslyn]

Awesome Trip! & Funny!!

 

I'd love to go up with you to see the Larchies turn!

[tazz]

You bet Kat! Lets do it!

 

I will let ya know when we are planning on it.

 

Thanks!

[ZONK]

Nice !

[AllYouCanEat]

Nice work Tazz. I find on solo trips, the only way I have fun is to keep myself busy. When it comes to risk, often it is afterward that I look back and reasses what I did right and wrong. Overall it helps me learn to think about decisions more, to really think about them. Not just agree with others. Risk is so much more real when alone in the middle of nowhere. I've so much enjoyed the fear and is a reason I go and will go out solo at least once or twice a year on a multi-day trip. It makes me a better climber and teaches me to come better prepared (there's no one to lean on). Not every solo trip is good though, but neither are trips w/partners. Ha. Like you though, I think that I like having others around. It is nice to have someone to share the adventure or misadventure with.

[tazz]

It makes me a better climber and teaches me to come better prepared (there's no one to lean on).

 

This is exactly why I forced myself to go. I did learn a lot about myself and my abilities on a solo. I am already thinking of another solo.

 

Thanks Jason!

[AlpineK]

I didn't look at this TR till just now. I'm a slacker.

 

That looks like a really cool spot to hang out at even if you didn't send.

 

Nice pictures.

[spotly]

Nice work Tazz. Solo does suck sometimes. And sometimes it's perfect. I've gone through that whole lack of motivation thing numerous times. Anymore I just have to remember how much money it cost in gas just to get to the trailhead. Lacking a partner, that'll help motivate me

 

Sounds like you got a great trip out of it.

[TREETOAD]

Talent is best nurtured in solitude.

 

Goethe

 

Good TR and really nice photos.

Looks like a great spot to be with yourself. People usually need lots of practice to be alone.

[wolffie]

Odd. I do lots of solo trips, mostly 'cause all my old friends saw the writing on the wall and fled Seattle in the late '90's, plus few like to do things my way.

 

I can't ever remember being bored on a solo trip. Au contraire, it seems more intense: no distractions, no compromises, nothing to pay attention to but my surroundings, I have to make all the decisions, can't lean on my partners' motivation and courage, no talking, so I see more wildlife (sometimes I talk a lot so I DON'T see certain wildlife). My friends sorta stood me up in Canyonlands once, and I was rewarded with 12 days solo, and I loved every minute of it, a marvelous trip! Nowadays, it's often different with one of my canine companions: solitude plus company.

 

STRONG HINT: leave the ipod at home. How can one get to the mountains if you take the city with you? Why not take the cell phone, blackberry and filing cabinet, too? Betcha you missed the Townsend's solitaires singing, pity. Recorded music when you have a live concert all around you? Leave the machine at home and rely on your own resources; you'll find you can make better noise inside your own head. All this technology can be a crutch. Our minds did not evolve with automated entertainment. Once you learn to define it as mind pollution, you'll see how hard it is to keep away from it in this society. Try memorizing your own songs, or making them up, and learn the birds. Like in the old days.

 

 

This info is useful. I'm having a hard time following some of it; maybe it'll be easier with a 7.5' map. Trying to decide if I want to bring some less-experienced folks in there. I'm going there one way or another; might go over Little Giant Pass, up the Napeequa and up Louis Creek, much longer but it's open.

 

Note: you write "Heading South I work my way to the East ridge of Cleator". Do you mean Berge?

 

[JoshK]

Tazz, that's no failure at all! I have done lots of trips solo, but I often can't find that drive when alone either. The same thing happened to me on Clarke mountain a month or so ago as you describe. I was just never really "feeling" it and after some disappointing weather overnight I couldn't rally to climb the mountain even though I was plenty capable of it. It happens! You got some great pictures of an awesome area. Most people wouldn't even figure out how to get through the 'shwack!

 

Leave the iPod at home, wolf? Ha, no thanks! Music is enjoyable many places, outside being one of them. Sometimes I like it on, sometimes I don't, but it's hardly "bringing the city with you."

[wolffie]

Thanks, this post helped me decide to use the much longer but more corgi-friendly Little Giant/Louis Creek approach instead on a 3-day loop trip 9/6-8/08. We weenied too; got up there and Buck Mtn. looked a lot bigger than it had in my imaginiation, and my partner has 6" legs.

 

Little Giant Pass had the only berries I've seen this year. FYI there is reliable water high in the basin.

 

The Louis Ck approach is almost 100% alder-free if you do it correctly: go about 5 min. past Louis Ck (buggy campsite nearby) to where the steep meadow touches the trail. Ice axe very handy, even when it was dry. Above, there is a track, might be hard to find. Animal tracks above.

 

Much recent bear sign in the Louis Ck basin, tracks, scat, and a 1'-diameter larch that had been recently girdled completely by a bear. Glad I'd forgotten my food-hanging line. This basin looks like a lake that was completely filled by the pumice (anybody know the date for this eruption?). This place will be gorgeous in October.

 

We did the cross-country high route to High Pass. Bivvy there. Navigation might be tricky in poor visibility. Would've been possible to cross High Pass without an ice axe but it was handy elsewhere. Out Buck Ck. Stunning views of Suiattle Vy & Glacier Pk. Just walkin' the dog.