Doug T Posted May 11, 2007 Share Posted May 11, 2007 Someone stole one of the hangers/chains from the top of the Davis-Holland/Lovin' Arms. I know that the person who did it must have had a real good reason to endanger everyone else who wants to climb the route. Those climbing the route should be warned that although you can rap with the glue-in bolt and separate chain, it does create a shock load situation AND your knot can get stuck on the bare bolt that's sticking out without a hanger (like it did to us today). Maybe this is old news, but I haven't been on the route this year until today. Sad to see dirtbags still find Index as a place to steal hangers and chains for their own lame projects. Doug T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted May 11, 2007 Share Posted May 11, 2007 The anchors were in place last October. Ripping off that hanger and chain is totally lame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted May 11, 2007 Share Posted May 11, 2007 :tdown: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted May 11, 2007 Share Posted May 11, 2007 Are you talking about the top of lovin arms, i.e. something that is accessible from the top of the wall (by a non climber)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug T Posted May 11, 2007 Author Share Posted May 11, 2007 It is the top of Lovin' Arms, accesible by non-climbers, but this was a climber who stole it. A non-climber would have taken both chains. As much as I like Index, there is at least one person with sociopathic tendencies who feels stealing half sets of anchors is an acceptable practice, and lessons the experience for others. I'd bet money it was the same lame-ass who stole half the Jap-Gardens first anchor. The lesson here is to place anchors with bolts like the Petzl Long Life that have no nut to unscrew. Over the years I've learned that there are bad people involved with every hobby and passtime that I participate in. They do bad things. Nothing I say will change their behavior. I take solice in the fact that they don't limit their bad things to their climbing (or other hobby) practices and that their bad judgement pervades their lives. These types end up losing half their pensions and homes in divorces, spend time in jail... you know, typical loser stuff. If you know who did this, toss his rack in the trash and introduce him to paragliding or surfing... anything that stops this wreckless behavior towards others. Doug T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backcountrydog Posted May 11, 2007 Share Posted May 11, 2007 maybe one of the quicklinks was loose or something (at least easier to take) and they couldnt loosen the 2nd to take it? i saw some non climbing folks up there over the weekend, which makes me think its possible that it was not climbers. theres a LOT of people that get to the top via atv's. i dont think its unrealistic to rule out non climbers...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted May 11, 2007 Share Posted May 11, 2007 that's weird Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted May 11, 2007 Share Posted May 11, 2007 It is the top of Lovin' Arms, accesible by non-climbers, but this was a climber who stole it. A non-climber would have taken both chains. (snip) inference (n)-the reasoning involved in drawing a conclusion or making a logical judgment on the basis of circumstantial evidence and prior conclusions rather than on the basis of direct observation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted May 12, 2007 Share Posted May 12, 2007 I take solice in the fact that they don't limit their bad things to their climbing (or other hobby) practices and that their bad judgement pervades their lives. These types end up losing half their pensions and homes in divorces, spend time in jail... you know, typical loser stuff. Getting divorced is something that some incredibly honest, caring, disciplined people have to go through. One can't always keep a marriage together by the strength of his/her own moral character. It takes two. I've never been divorced, but I resent your "typical loser stuff" comment. A little off topic, aren't we? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug T Posted May 13, 2007 Author Share Posted May 13, 2007 How about I say it this way... "I take solice in the fact that because they don't limit their bad behaviors to their climbing practices, these types end up losing half their pensions and homes in divorces because they only care for themselves , spend time in jail ... you know, typical loser stuff." Again... I'm reminded why I rarely visit this site. I make some posts to let folks know about a potentially dangerous situation and mock the person who made it dangerous. In return I'm scolded for possibly offending people who read my statement meaning "divorce is for losers" in stead of "I take solice in them losing half of their pensions and homes". To those out there who are of strong moral character and have divorced, I did not intend to call you a loser. To those out there who steal anchors, Your future misery makes me happy. Doug T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted May 14, 2007 Share Posted May 14, 2007 (edited) Doug T thanks for the heads up. This is lame but maybe there should be a marking on the bolts and anchors so that is a climber is stealing them (can't belive that a fellow climber is so lame) that if some one finds it on a new route/project they can then take them back and put it where it belongs. No matter what it is lame that you can't leave anything and expect it to be there. It does not take a rocket scientist to figure that bolts on a rock in a known climbing area might be important. Edited May 14, 2007 by letsroll Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted May 14, 2007 Share Posted May 14, 2007 Lucky and Yoder routinely engrave their hangers as a result of having them stolen in the past. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 Anchor status? Heading out tomorrow am. Actually, hangers sold at MEC say Lucky on them (including ones I've placed). No engraving required, just change your cc handle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Draagun1 Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 Anchor status? Heading out tomorrow am. Actually, hangers sold at MEC say Lucky on them (including ones I've placed). No engraving required, just change your cc handle. I'm a fairly new climber and while at Leavenworth this weekend,looking up at all the anchors and bolted hangers I had one thought. For those that took the time , effort and expense(not a small one either)to make things nice for the rest of us. Thank you and Bless you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lizard_brain Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 I may be naive, but why would someone just take one anchor? Especially a climber? Just to be an a-hole? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 could have been they didn't have a wrench, but one of them was loose. doesn't matter though, bottom line it is asinine thing to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRep Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 I'd go up right now and replace it, but i'm currently on the DL. less talk more action!! what are we going to do about this? lets contact the Washington Climbers Coalition @ http://www.washingtonclimbers.org and voice our concerns. everyone who climbs in washington should be a member of this, it's free to join and it's our LCO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 DH to LA today. What a fabulous route! Scrumpdelicious day! sickie All anchors are >= 2 bolts + chains. There is one hangerless stud in need of a wench and some screwing at the very top of the cliff on Lovin Arms, but there are 3 other bolts nearby, 2 with chains. Also, there is a bolt 1/3 of the way up the '5.9R' last pitch of LH. There are also opportunities for natural pro on this short pitch so IMHO the R rating is no longer warranted. btw, the walkoff is easy as pie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lithophiliac Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Nice update Rad. I must be getting to old, but there never used to be any bolts on top to rap from that I remember. You always had to walk/rap way off left. Perhaps its the revenge of an old timer (not me). I was plesently suprised to see the chains when I last did it - makes getting down so much nicer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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