G-spotter Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 Ladders are aid, worse than bolts We received the following email from Kevin Thaw this week: At the end of April Everest from the N side is pending. Leo "Irvine" Houlding & Conrad "Mallory" Anker are set to recreate the original journey for a film, removing the ladder and sending the second step to hypothesize on possible conquest of original pioneers? Many layers of media are coming out of the journey: I'm the satellite guy (internet dispatches) & presenter (BBC & PBS) for a TV show on the ascent and making of the film. All being well should have a clear view over the world during the first week of June then back to the UK to hide from Summer heat. Kevin, JH, on yer marks get set.... GO! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 When I was there I got a kick out of watching these French guys who were out to set a speed record on the north col route chain smoking at advanced base camp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 That's pretty cool. Are they going to leave it down (best) or re-fix it after? I love a good this has legs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TREETOAD Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 When I was there I got a kick out of watching these French guys who were out to set a speed record on the north col route chain smoking at advanced base camp. The way the french smoke you would think it was a cure for cancer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 (edited) I got together with Conrad about some other, non-alpine business when he was in town last and he's as standup as his rep would suggest. I suspect if they take down any fixed stuff they'll leave it down. Edit: though, on second thought they may need that stuff to get the IMAX camera up with them, that thing is a cow. Edited April 15, 2007 by JosephH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 (edited) Better? Edited April 16, 2007 by ScottP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dechristo Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 panoramanator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstach Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 "Chop! Chop! Chop!..." - Alice Cooper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy_t Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 conrad is a good guy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 Kevin, JH, on yer marks get set.... GO! Why would this interest me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 You and JH like to battle over bolts why not up the fight to include ladders at crags. Tell us about the need for more ladders at craggs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 You and JH like to battle over bolts why not up the fight to include ladders at crags. Tell us about the need for more ladders at craggs. I do not think we are battling. We are having a disscusion. Ladders at craggs????? there is no need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Ladders at craggs????? there is no need. What about the chain ladder that provides access to Merci Me from the left? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Ladders at craggs????? there is no need. What about the chain ladder that provides access to Merci Me from the left? What about it? I am not aware of what you mention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 conrad is a good guy. Funny this came up. Recently we have had some bolting activity around bozeman that involves conrad. He is working on this area that is all basalt (not columns) edges, where you are only allowed to bolt ground up. There are some other rules I guess like on the first bolt you boulder up until you quiver and that is the high spot for the first bolt. Now before you bolt it, another person can challenge the route and by bouldering up higher and establishing a new high point for the route. It has turned out some pretty good routes as well as adding character to an area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 What about it? I am not aware of what you mention. Well, it's there, and God is killing kittens because of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Hopefully he's not forgetting the puppies while he's at it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Ladders at craggs????? there is no need. What about the chain ladder that provides access to Merci Me from the left? There's a chain ladder there now? How pussified is that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 conrad is a good guy. Funny this came up. Recently we have had some bolting activity around bozeman that involves conrad. He is working on this area that is all basalt (not columns) edges, where you are only allowed to bolt ground up. There are some other rules I guess like on the first bolt you boulder up until you quiver and that is the high spot for the first bolt. Now before you bolt it, another person can challenge the route and by bouldering up higher and establishing a new high point for the route. It has turned out some pretty good routes as well as adding character to an area. This is a ridiculous and stupid for establishing "sport" routes. Sounds like a fun, but scary, way to hurt yourself...and an ego stroke (of which most climbing is anyways). how hard are the established routes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Just a quick to ScottP for screwing the layout with his panorama. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 conrad is a good guy. Funny this came up. Recently we have had some bolting activity around bozeman that involves conrad. He is working on this area that is all basalt (not columns) edges, where you are only allowed to bolt ground up. There are some other rules I guess like on the first bolt you boulder up until you quiver and that is the high spot for the first bolt. Now before you bolt it, another person can challenge the route and by bouldering up higher and establishing a new high point for the route. It has turned out some pretty good routes as well as adding character to an area. This is a ridiculous and stupid for establishing "sport" routes. Sounds like a fun, but scary, way to hurt yourself...and an ego stroke (of which most climbing is anyways). how hard are the established routes? Dunno, sounds like they're attempting to insure there is actually some sport left in them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 hence the quotation marks. If it's going to be bolted, I'm all for that type of climbing and route development; I'm just curious how hard these new routes are? hand drill or power? pins, hooks, or other bolting aids OR drill from a stance? How high the first bolts are off the deck? inquiring minds want to know mr ice send-bot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Hand drill... hard men only!!!! Usually the first bolt is a good 15 feet off the deck and up to 20+. The ratings are mostly 5.10 and harder and up to an unfinished 5.13. Yeah apparently it is meant to be one of those areas where sport is actually sporty. They are great routes, long all over 100ft and vertical to past with edges the whole way. And I am a big fan of sporty sport routes, this last easter weekend I got on the route to the left of bloody fingers at the city of rocks called "my new toy" 100 ft four bolts 10bish it was fun, i like. Kurt if you are wondering it is the good rock out by the black magic wall and another reason the bolts are high is to try a stop people from Dry Tooling them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drater Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 I dry tooled once but then she cut me off for a month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Just a quick to ScottP for screwing the layout with his panorama. No shit. It's a nice photo but WTF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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