TrogdortheBurninator Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=333051 I'm sure some of you already saw this, but it is a pretty interesting situation. Lots of key players chiming in with their response. Seems that the yosemite crowd and the CO/UT crowd have pretty different opinions/allegiances. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Trippett Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=333051 I'm sure some of you already saw this, but it is a pretty interesting situation. Lots of key players chiming in with their response. Seems that the yosemite crowd and the CO/UT crowd have pretty different opinions/allegiances. Pretty screwed up. I wonder how the Argentines feel about all of that chicanery. OH YEAH! BTW..... I'm going to chop all the bolt ladders on the Grand Wall today.....since it can be freed at a moderate .13b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 Chopping the route is like trying to rewrite history for the sake of personal agrandisement. It's wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 Didn't someone remove the compressor on the "Compressor Route" and the locals got pissed and had a chopper put the thing back up there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 Yeah, besides that, it makes a good place to stand while you belay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 No! Colin made that up for his own amusement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 that post is crazy, those boys end up sounding like losers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted March 6, 2007 Author Share Posted March 6, 2007 Here is a telling quote from Wharton (from climbing.com) “I’m glad we climbed so much of the route without bolts. I’m also excited to see that the 120-meter headwall (in better conditions) will go with perhaps only 30 meters of aid—20 of which are the legitimate aid climbing of the Bridwell pitch. And I thought we did a great job struggling onto the top in horrendous weather. I’m disappointed, however, that in the end we took the easy way out, using the bolts to gain the top in what would otherwise have been unclimbable conditions. Human laziness and coveting the easy way to the top is a sad piece of the Compressor Route story, and although Zack and I nearly avoided this path, in the end we fell just short.” A proud ascent, but as far as I'm concerned any further ethical debate about chopping the compressor route is completely hypocritical if it originates from either of these two climbers. If their ethics were genuine, they should have bailed when they could no longer proceed without Maestri's bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 From your post it sounds as if they continue to use words that convey they made the top..which alpinist corrected in their original posting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 no cumbre no ruta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raindawg Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 How about cleaning up our own messy crags at home first before going on overseas adventures? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 those guys where trying to chop it to make some big statment and in the end couldnt even climb the route with out the bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 How about cleaning up our own messy crags at home first before going on overseas adventures? Reminds me of "BEFORE WE PERFECT ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE, CAN WE PLEASE SOLVE HUMAN STUPIDITY?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 Chop, Chop, Chop. Don't ever stop. Anything that wasn't put up in perfect style should be chopped. If you were stupid enough to try to climb it in EB's you deserve to have your route chopped. Wankers. shit........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 Chopping the route is like trying to rewrite history for the sake of personal agrandisement. It's wrong. So it should stand....what, as a reminder of what can happen when greed for the summit becomes more important than respect for the mountain's natural defenses? Are you saying that once a mistake is made it shouldn't be corrected? Sounds like you have more respect for the bolt trail than for the mountain itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 Chopping the route is like trying to rewrite history for the sake of personal agrandisement. It's wrong. So it should stand....what, as a reminder of what can happen when greed for the summit becomes more important than respect for the mountain's natural defenses? Are you saying that once a mistake is made it shouldn't be corrected? Sounds like you have more respect for the bolt trail than for the mountain itself. Hey Pope when are you gonna head over to Colorado and fill in the carved bucket holes on Otto's Route with red-coloured cement? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 Chopping the route is like trying to rewrite history for the sake of personal agrandisement. It's wrong. So it should stand....what, as a reminder of what can happen when greed for the summit becomes more important than respect for the mountain's natural defenses? Are you saying that once a mistake is made it shouldn't be corrected? Sounds like you have more respect for the bolt trail than for the mountain itself. Hey Pope when are you gonna head over to Colorado and fill in the carved bucket holes on Otto's Route with red-coloured cement? Hey Dru, your brain is on vacation and your mouth is working over-time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 You don't think some American dude chopping huge bucket steps and installing a metal pipe via ferrata to a Colorado mountain is more worthy of your clean-up skills than an Italian route with a couple bolts and an in-situ compressor on a Chilean/Argentinian mountain? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 You don't think some American dude chopping huge bucket steps and installing a metal pipe via ferrata to a Colorado mountain is more worthy of your clean-up skills than an Italian route with a couple bolts and an in-situ compressor on a Chilean/Argentinian mountain? It's all bullshit. I don't have the time to correct either mistake. Shame on these a-holes, and shame on you for the worn-out cliché: this one is OK since that one is worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 Hey Dru, your brain is on vacation and your mouth is working over-time. Thus spake the great Mose Allison, a wise and witty man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted March 7, 2007 Author Share Posted March 7, 2007 So pope, what solution would you propose? 1) Leave it be 2) Chop it 3) Clean the "unnecessary" bolts (not sure who makes that decision) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 I'm not sure what the best thing is. I view that route as a historical marker to the old days. Obviosly it wasn't done in the best form, but maybe it should stay there as a reminder of bad things done in the past. whether you like it or not it is a bit of climbing history. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawkeye69 Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 that post is crazy, those boys end up sounding like losers no sheeeet, nothing like the MENSA of climbing forums, cc.com. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawkeye69 Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 Chopping the route is like trying to rewrite history for the sake of personal agrandisement. It's wrong. So it should stand....what, as a reminder of what can happen when greed for the summit becomes more important than respect for the mountain's natural defenses? Are you saying that once a mistake is made it shouldn't be corrected? Sounds like you have more respect for the bolt trail than for the mountain itself. no. it should only stand until someone climbs it with fair means (whatever that is) by not using the bolts. otherwise, the climbers are more hypocritical than ever. you ever clip a bolt pope? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Choada_Boy Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 I don't have the time to correct either mistake. Right. I'm sure that, if you had the time, you could just head right up the thing and start a choppin'. Your arm-chair morality lessons are meaningless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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