Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Need2Climb

Rack for Forbidden W. Ridge

Recommended Posts

Been on my ticklist for quite a while, and I'm finally going to get a chance to do it the last week of June. Most of what I've heard for what people used on their rack indicate something like -

 

"Lots of slings and nuts"

 

Anyone care to be a more specific on what worked for them on the West Ridge? Much appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the approach couloir isn't looking so hot already this season. just a heads up. no pics though, sorry.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Anyone care to be a more specific on what worked for them on the West Ridge?

 

Three #2 RPs, a #6 Wild Country Rock, a #6 BD Hex, a pink TriCam, a red Tricam, 8 biners and 4 slings. Two slings were shoulder length and two were double shoulder length. this is the ONLY summit rack that GUARANTEES success laugh.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Quit being a smart-ass Dru. You can get by with any rack you want. It is such an easy climb you can simul-solo the majority of it. If the snow couloir is sketch, don't rope up or place a picket. The rock is low angle and there is a ton of placements in the smaller stuff (less than 1") No need to bring anything bigger than a 1.5 or 2 bd cam.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If the couloir is dicey you can scramble easy ledges to the left of the couloir. Very light rack for the ridge. Easy to protect.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All climbs in the cascade pass region favor 1" or less pieces because of the compact rock.

How far can a guy drive up the cascade river road right now? Do the rangers have the gate locked?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

W. Ridge of Forbidden is not what I'd call the Cascade Pass Region, but I'd agree that a rack of sub 1" pieces would be fine.

 

Example: 6 nuts from BD4-10

 

Pink Trican

red(#1) camalot

 

10 runners

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would agree what has been said about the 1 inch unwriten rule, but the route will take any size. Getting on the route can be the most difficult part. When I did it, was late in the season and the most difficult rock moves of the day were the first 20 feet and required thin gear. Depending on your comfort level on that type of terrain and difficulty, should really be the determing factor on how much you bring. Cordelette are handy for sling big blocks along the way on the ridge.

 

Enjoy that is one beautiful route.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
W. Ridge of Forbidden is not what I'd call the Cascade Pass Region,

 

This was an interesting comment to me.

 

I'm curious where you draw the line? What "Region" would you say Forbidden is in if not Cascade Pass? Is Boston Basin it's own "Region?"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Example: 6 nuts from BD4-10

 

 

There are 7 nuts between 4 and 10 inclusive. Which 6 of the 7 should I bring confused.gifconfused.gifcry.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How far can a guy drive up the cascade river road right now? Do the rangers have the gate locked?

 

the road is gated about 1.5 miles before the Boston Basin TH at a hairpin. it should be open in a few weeks according to the rangers since there is snow just before the cascade pass TH and there isn't "enough parking."

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
it should be open in a few weeks according to the rangers since there is snow just before the cascade pass TH and there isn't "enough parking."

 

If any rangers are reading this: it is extremely LAME that the gate is locked. The road is in perfect shape beyond the gate. thumbs_down.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Exactly. Forbidden is indeed in the Cascade Pass area of peaks (see Green Beckey 3rd edition, pg 322) and I have yet to meet anyone besides Blake who would disagree with that. Some people think they have a lot more experience than they really do on this website, so you really need to take everything you hear with a grain of salt.

 

That said, if you haven't personally climbed the W Ridge of Forbidden, then what business do you have commenting on what constitutes a suitable rack?

 

As for my own opinion (and I have climbed the W. Ridge twice), you could easily get by with a set of stoppers to 1" and plenty of double length runners. If you're really concerned, bring along a few small cams. Also, I suggest descending the E. Ledges ... I think it saves time. It's about 5 raps from the summit then ~20 minute traverse, then a climb to an obvious notch which brings you to class 3 terrain above Boston Basin.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As for my own opinion (and I have climbed the W. Ridge twice),

 

That's so core, could you tell me what type of windshirt to use for this climb?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yellowsleep.gif

 

Not quite as "core" as 2064 posts on this website in less than 2 years though, right Napoleon? Who knows how many posts you have as other avatars. Take your lips off mommies tit and get outside.

 

Now that I have your attention, put your thinking cap on and reread what I wrote again and again until you can finally understand that I was attempting to clarify that I (unlike others on this thread offering advice on what to bring on the climb) have actually climbed the route.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tee hee. hahaha.gif

 

But you didn't tell me what type of windshirt I need or how I can be a hardcore cool-guy climber like you and climb the West Ridge of Forbidden TWO whole times. grin.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't mean to play shrink, Harry, but what exactly is the point of your post? Is it due to the size of your penis? Everyone knows you are a wee little guy, but now we're beginning to see how wee your wee wee is. hahaha.gif

 

BTW .. I like to use a cotton windshirt. No hard feelings?

 

EDIT: Get it? No hard feelings .. small wee wee!!!!! Ahh, forget it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Snaffle, I know of at least 6 people who have posted so far above (including myself) who have climbed it at least once. Sorry Harry, I don't know you so not sure if you climbed it or not.

 

W. Ridge is almost as populated as Sahale peak in the Summer. Wouldn't go so far as to call it the Mt. Hood of the N. Cascades like Sahale, but I would say that undertaking W. Ridge is a pretty common occurance even for newbies, as it is one of the easiest climbs in the range.

Edited by ryland_moore

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm quite sure that everyone posting in this thread thus far has climbed WRF at least once, with some illustrious posters having climbed in even MORE than twice!! OMG!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That said, if you haven't personally climbed the W Ridge of Forbidden, then what business do you have commenting on what constitutes a suitable rack?

 

The only instance I can think of is where one bails from the route due to an insufficient rack...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I love you too. You want to come over and watch the Care Bear Special on Tivo tonight?

 

BTW, I actually down-solo campussed the west ridge adding a down-sit start from the summit. In winter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  

×