G-spotter Posted November 17, 2002 Posted November 17, 2002 “BigWall Rocky” and my own self, headed up to Alpental on Saturday morning quite early, just when Sun arose if we could have seen her. We headed up the Snow Lake trail to the Source Lake junction and then followed that as it made its way to the end of the basin and above Source Lake. In about 90 centimeters of newest snow, quite wet and unassuming, we crossed and then headed up the talus fields, keeping a lookout for rock piles poking out from the snow, and a few wands were placed; sometimes there is a trail that follows the left portion of the talus field on steep dirt and roots, but hardest to find under all the new flakes. After you gain that dirt headwall and have ascended talus, you get a good view of the Tooth, if not the clouds have come in like had done to us. Rocky called this then sucker hole. So it was time, we follow the talus fields all the way until below the Tooth and then head up the second gully left of the tooth, as the first one is a rap gulley from Pineapple Pass. We gained the gulley system and then went around the back of it following the trail, although in Europe there would be more chains and ropes for a real trail good for people to follow. Here you must step over a meter high rock ridge and head up a small seven meter chimney with tree roots, and then down a trail and up the 3rd class system that gets you to Pineapple Pass. There is room for half a dozen climbers up here, perhaps one day we should have a party, with portaledges and DJ music. There is another rap station below the pass, but it was not the best that I have seen. So we climbed up, there was no ice and we brushed snow off the holds then placed our tools and crampons with care so as not to break anything, for rock is bad, like Julian Alps. The first pitch heads up the ramp, up a large crack or diedre, and then up to a tree belay that is wrapped with old garbage slings. I forced myself to kneel and clip-in for belay of Rocky. Only one piece of gear went on the 1st pitch (II UIAA) it should have more as it is dangerous, but perhaps Americans do not care of such things. From the 2nd belay we headed right and then up some dangerous loose blocks, and past a snag to a large belay tree. I implored Rocky to think about placing as bolt, as trees and blocks and such are not approved CEN anchors, but he unkindly told me to shut-up. From there we climbed together, it was too easy to rope and not exposed but slippery with snow and rain, we were quite humidity. The last pitch heads up some scary loose flakes (UIAA III or M2 if dry tooled) to the last belay tree, that is on the summit. It was the most enjoyable pitch, and I wish it would have lasted longer, but by that time we were standing on the summit. It was now past noon and we were all alone up there, it was cold but too wet for good ice, and although I had been maybe the first to winter-climb it leashless, it was not something I should bark about, because in Europe nothing of the sort is bothered to report, like lake beds in Canada. We were alone as the other persons we had seen were lost in rubber boots back down by the lake, with large dogs and shotguns we had not talked to them. It was cold and wet, so we decided to start the decent. The rappel is not safe, being on old slings and not chains, so we climbed down solo, it was fairly tedious but not hard as we had come up and could see our own marks to follow.. From Pineapple Pass we jumped and slid and then down the Talus slopes. Before we got down out of the basin it had turned to heavy rain mixed with fog and we were navigating the steeper boulder fields like blinded men. We got back on the Source Lake Trail and out of there quite quickly, and came back here for beers. Rocky said it was a good climb but I was disappointed there should have been more fixed gear and steeper climbing. Perhaps a modern route with fixed anchors on the steep East face would bring more serious winter climbing to this summit. [ 11-16-2002, 05:11 PM: Message edited by: G-spotter ] Quote
bcollins Posted November 17, 2002 Posted November 17, 2002 Not quite sure what to say about all this. I'm glad that there aren't fixed ropes and crap to negotiate around to Pinapple Pass. That part isn't hard at all, and if your pissing about that then what are you doing climbing in the NW? And you could have placed more gear on the first pitch.........one piece isn't enough but that's your fault, not the fact that theres no fixed gear. And the tree at the top is bomber, I've rapped that a dozen times and so has a million other climbers, so throw another sling on it and move, I can't believe anyone would downclimb that pitch, let alone do it solo rather than rap, are you crazy? And if you even thought of placing a bolt on the tooth then you really need your European head examined, cuz that just ain't done around these parts my friend. These here are real mtns for real men so suck it up buddy and quit whining. Geez, bolting the So. face of the Tooth...........come on! Barry Quote
russ Posted November 17, 2002 Posted November 17, 2002 pull, tug, reel, reel faster, use the net, use the net! Quote
Al_Pine Posted November 17, 2002 Posted November 17, 2002 Yeah!!! You Europeans are all a bunch of whining pasty cowards that say "brilliant" all the time. I HATE THAT !!! Love those death flakes eh dude. The Tooth Rules . Very glad you enjoyed your stay. Please come again! Quote
allthumbs Posted November 17, 2002 Posted November 17, 2002 "Quite. Well I've finished my biscuit and must get back to my hoovering". Quote
Dru Posted November 18, 2002 Posted November 18, 2002 This is one of the best TRs I have seen in a long time. The pathos...the humor...the Euro take on Cascade mountaineering... Compare it to the recently posted TR for the same route on scott'teryx site. Very educational! Quote
North_by_Northwest Posted November 18, 2002 Posted November 18, 2002 It's good to see a little comedy, creativity and opinion go into a TR instead of the same deadpan climbing stuff. I actually read all of yours. It would have been a little better if you'd have made it a full-on Eiger Sanction parody though. "There is room for half a dozen climbers up here, perhaps one day we should have a party, with portaledges and DJ music." I hear they do that on this face in Arizona every year. We need a similar but alpine style party. Maybe a Boston Basin kegger or a Stuart summit bivy rave. Quote
mvs Posted November 18, 2002 Posted November 18, 2002 That was a great read! I hope you brought some biscuit tins and Nutella for tea. At one point on that climb I threaded a tape around a sturdy bush, attached a snap-link, and abseiled directly. (I've now used all my Euro-words) Quote
remlec Posted November 18, 2002 Posted November 18, 2002 almost got sucked in till i heard the wind whistlin' by Quote
Thinker Posted November 19, 2002 Posted November 19, 2002 I climbed the Tooth this year with 2 German friends. The best line from them on that trip was this (as they were looking quizically at a can of cheez whiz on the summit): "made with 10% real cheese...what is this. Ist das nicht Kase?" I guess you had to be there, it was hilarious, esp the expressions on their faces. [ 11-18-2002, 04:36 PM: Message edited by: Thinker ] Quote
G-spotter Posted November 19, 2002 Author Posted November 19, 2002 This person scotteryx sent me PM complaining my TR was much too like his so I look again on his site www.nwog.org. I think they have important points of difference but are maybe somewhat alike maybe since we are describing same features on same mountain, I dont know. What do you think? Perhaps just you should call me g-spot'teryx now from on. I dont try to make fun of him but I see on Muir is Saturday thread he upsets easily? Quote
iain Posted November 19, 2002 Posted November 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by G-spotter: I dont try to make fun of him but I see on Muir is Saturday thread he upsets easily? Actually the guy quietly absorbs more abuse than Gandhi. Quote
BigWallBigBallsRocky Posted November 20, 2002 Posted November 20, 2002 Gastel is like the worlds biggest whiner "OH GOD PUT IN THE SPIT!" he's yelling all the way up. Apparently Spit is Euro speak for bolt. He does have a point about the leashless thing though. Quote
DPS Posted November 21, 2002 Posted November 21, 2002 quote: Actually the guy quietly absorbs more abuse than Gandhi. Don't believe it. He may not respond publicly because he knows he'll get shouted down, but he'll send you emails threatening to kick your ass. If I had not seen photos of him, I might be frightened. Quote
Son_of_Caveman Posted November 21, 2002 Posted November 21, 2002 You're shitting me DPS. Lil' snotty scotty actually threatened you? Bwahahaha What's he gonna do, hit you over the head with his limp biscuit? Quote
Dru Posted November 21, 2002 Posted November 21, 2002 DPS what did you say to get the nasty PM? I wanna get one too! Quote
Son_of_Caveman Posted November 21, 2002 Posted November 21, 2002 You get them from me all the time, you putz. Quote
Dru Posted November 21, 2002 Posted November 21, 2002 You, sir, are no Scotteryx. For one thing you dont have your own self-promotional website all about what routes you saw someone TR! [ 11-21-2002, 10:58 AM: Message edited by: Dru ] Quote
Son_of_Caveman Posted November 21, 2002 Posted November 21, 2002 True, but I'm annoying as hell and strive to piss everybody off at least once a day. Quote
G-spotter Posted June 4, 2003 Author Posted June 4, 2003 Hello Friends! Summer is now coming to here! When should we have our portaledge Love Parade on the Toothie? I dont think too many new bolted anchors will be required. Mr Gowans may invite all the women he knows and Fence Spitter too. Between the two of them, that might be one girl! Quote
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