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Everything posted by remlec

  1. The Tooth is turning into a sport route

    Sorry. Lost as usual. I've always done the third "pitch" as a scramble. Are the pieces on the second or fourth? Maybe longer ropes and only three pitches? From the past: ten years ago, cam stuck on second pitch, three years ago, cam stuck on final pitch. Last summer cam stuck on last pitch. I thought it was just a good way to relieve onself of extraneous used gear.
  2. Adams--Battlement Ridge/Rusk Glacier

    Hmm That's a long haul. I assume you're coming in as per Mazama then traversing. Tried it in May a couple years ago and was blown off. Crevasses were providing interesting route finding to get to the ridge then so August ought to be a hoot. There is an interesting access to the high ridge if you're comfortable with some steep ice. Shorter than starting low but , again, by August It'd be tricky.
  3. Barrier Pk

    Add a bit of spice. Come in from Cayuse and Sheep Skull Gap. Do a traverse of the whole ridge. Suggest second car if you're also doing the needle and or Tamanos. North Governor's is a scramble but there is a distinct east and north east rock face with technical merit. Rock is sound for that area.
  4. Boot Beta

    How closely do you intend to follow the original route? That included several first ascents that are often circumvented now. In any case, fit is the most important thing. For some reason, ladies don't seem to fit well into the boots I normally see. I've heard a lot of really good field reports on various Zamberlain (spelling?) brand boots. I've run into several who took them treking in Nepal. Their comments were that the required almost no break in and gave good stability. These were from backpacker to mountaineering styles. You might take a look.
  5. where do I go for instruction

    Wouldn't NECESSARILY rule out mountaineer classes. Class size depends on branch and what you're really looking for is instructor to student ratio. Tacoma and Olympia run about 1 instructor to four students with rock weekends usually under 30 students per day. Also, it doesn't get a whole lot less expensive than that short of friends teaching friends. Good luck.
  6. Resole mountaineering boots

    Are Montrails really worth resoling? My only resole experience was with Raichle Eigers 'cause I loved them and thought they'd go a few years. One season was it. They next year they blew out three miles from the car and I had to tie the soles back on wrapping accessorie cord around the whole thing to get me back. That's my last resole on low end climbing boots.
  7. Ice tool knot's

    I believe in this situation, the water knot is woven back from the leash end and the rewoven knot is woven back on itself. Most people I know use the rewoven (both the leash and tail go the same direction)
  8. Eagle Peak Accident

    The last scramble from the trail end to the summit follows a ramp that slopes downward back on to the approach route through the brush. I would have thought more like 30-40' than 80. It's on the south side and the sun leaves a bit of water ice if the snow isn't real deep. It's not technical but I've had to leave a hand line for people that didn't want to follow. Above that, It's possible to trip off the east side but I don't think 80' is nearly enough there and in summer it's just talus quite a ways. So, he might have just slipped on the ramp.
  9. plowing to Paradise

    If you mean the gate didn't open till 10:00, that's not unusual. There doesn't seem to be any real uniformity to what they do up there. Sometimes the entrance is manned by 7:00 sometimes after 8:00. Go figure.
  10. Opposed prusiks

    When I was taught this it was because the climber could put one hand on each knot and use his thumb to release the knot and slide it up thereby always having a hand on the rope. In practicality, almost everyone uses both hands to release the knot so the point is moot and the emphasis on opposed knots is now somewhat passe.
  11. Governor's Ridge/Cowlitz Chimneys

    If you've got the time,try access via Cayuse Pass. Park in the wide spot just south of the pass and ascend obvious gulley to the notch. Contour through Sheepskull Gap and head for any part of the ridge which makes a long day to traverse from the north to Barrier. N Peak is 4th class rock. (Possible 5th class north face) Main is a scramble from east ridge or south gulley. Needle is 4th class (rock sucks) everything else is an easy ridge walk.
  12. Garfield

    I was wandering on Garfield (south route)this weekend and noticed the summit register had several claims of 2 3/4 to 3 hr car to summit. True? Should I just cave in and toss out my hikers now? It took me ... considerably ... longer. Also, any knowledge of the south face? Pete Doorish has a multi day 5.9 just right of the south ridge also noted in the register.
  13. Climbing Suggestions

    An interesting alternative on Lane's "Zipper" is instead of going over the shoulder and up the southeast side, turn right at the shoulder and follow a mixed lead to a somewhat knife edged ridge to the main summit. Some exposure.
  14. Stolen Gear

    There must be SOME outlet for the purloined gear. The weekend my car was broken into and gear stolen at Snoqualmie Pass there were twenty + similar incidents. If there weren't an outlet, it wouldn't be worth the effort. (only climbing gear was removed from the car, everything else, including a thinly hidden wallet remained.)The police say it's just too prevalent to follow up on. Do make sure you make sure that we and our friends buy used gear only from known sources.
  15. Avy, seven buried, one dead

    Just from personal experience, I've been on and lead quite a few Mountaineer trips and the trip leader ALWAYS has the choice of continuing or not. Seattle's branch seems a bit more goal oriented but in any case, I'm not sure I'd want to be lead by someone who chose not to turn around just because I could get some summit logged to finish a class. Death is pretty final.

    Freeman, not to worry. Most of us appreciate greatly the efforts of SAR (especially the volunteers) but are too self absorbed to admit it till a life is hanging in the balance.
  17. North Face VS South Face

    back to the crux of the question 'cause we were talking about it over the weekend. if it's true north routes are more severe here, alps, etc, are the south routes more severe in the southern hemi?
  18. almost got sucked in till i heard the wind whistlin' by
  19. newbie needs a guide

    Sorry Russ. I am sort of a newbie. Only been climbing for about 15 yrs and still learning teaching with the Monties for about 8yr. Still, I stand by the idea that if you have NO experience, how do you know that person you find on the rock or along the trail is experienced and safe? I've had both wonderful and disasterous experiences along these lines.
  20. newbie needs a guide

    Freeclimb9 has a useful approach if you have at least SOME background. If not, do you really want to trust your life to someone you just met along the trail who APPEARS to know what they are doing and MIGHT have good judgement? Do you know enough to make that determination? Heck, I wouldn't trust me if I just met myself.
  21. Redstone Peak

    Not much of an event in itself. Suggest doing it in summer and combine with Sluiskin Chief then scramble down the ridge to Redstone, an easy scramble. It's Rainier, rock almost always sucks.
  22. Wilderness First Aid

    I teach MOFA for the Mtnrs. It's the same course as the Red Cross WOFA (in Pierce County) but much less expensive. MOFA is required for graduation from all Mtnr climbing/scrambling courses and all climbing personnel from Pierce County Search and Rescue also run through and re-cert. I've have a lot of feedback on the value in real life situations. I highly recommend something on this order to all outdoor people. These are very basic and take 4 days (also includes Red Cross first-aid and CPR) but give you some place to start in an emergency and as importantly, some organizational priorities. First responder courses are more intense but are really spendy, take more time and you're still just giving first aid. Even if you're trained and licensed medical practitioner in town, proceedures change when you can't call 911. 'course, the best is to climb with a doctor who's a first responder.
  23. TR: Observation Rock/High Caliber Rifles

    JAT: Before we judge all the "hicks from the sticks" and especially since we're in hunting season, I've noticed during a lot of past experiences that there are a lot of wanna be Rambo types from the city that go out and just need SOMETHING to shoot at. Still rednecks, just where they come from.
  24. help a newbie out - Guye Peak

    Beckey does an ok set of descriptions of the routes on Guye. Don't let your guard down at that upper exposed area. This time last year while I bailed on a South Early due to an early wet snow, one of my climbing first aid students slipped there after doing the south ridge. He now views daisies root first. In summer, improbable traverse is nice (5.7).
  25. Renaming Route(s)

    imho, renaming a route in an oscure pile of rock (in the world view)does little for the memory of a truly world class adventurer. i've come across far too many memorial plaques and the like. most i haven't the faintest idea who or why they were paid homage. in a few years, this route renaming would be the same. wouldn't it be way cool if there were something more global say, starting a term movement like "kropping" a route or adventure? Hans Dulfer hasn't been around forever yet every alpinist knows of him from a dulfersetz rappel.