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Everything posted by bcollins

  1. Brought back memories. This route was also my first alpine route, about 25 yrs ago!!! I led the first real pitch, grabbed this monster rack and took off. I might take my daughter up there next year.
  2. I have memories of solo'ing up the Black Pyramid to lessen the risk to the rest of our team, the view between my legs was incredible. It was also a long.....way......down. RIP fellow climbers. Sincere condolences to family/friends. We're all very sorry for your loss. Barry
  3. FYI: Snowshoer missing on Rainier

    As someone who's spent an unplanned night out on the slopes above Paradise, I'll weigh in. A winter AT trip on the Muir snowfield. Weather deteriorates quickly below Pan Point, me and a 17 yr old newbie get disorientated and veer east, down the fall line, despite trying to follow a due south compass bearing. By 10 pm my headlight fails, so we radio into buddies at Paradise and dig in. Next day we skied out to Paradise through 14 inches of powder and single digits. I learned this: *Bring exta dry glove liners, my wetted out gloves froze into bricks. *Waterproof matches. Even in the dead of winter, below treeline we could have built a fire. *Emergency bivi sack. Light weight and would have been oh so nice. That's about it. We had extra layers, we kept a cool head, dug into a small clump of trees and stayed warm by doing squats, step ups all night. We were in communication via radio, ate the last of our food and water, and counted the minutes until first light. Of course it's not practical to bring everything on a day hike/ski, but it's possible to survive in good spirits and not endanger others with a little forethought and basic survival skills. Barry BTW so glad to hear that Mr. Kim is ok
  4. Kautz conditions 6/7/09

    Heard from my buddies who summitted today. (Love the cell service up there). They solo'd the ice pitches on the Kautz cuz it was too soft for screws. Bluebird day with a sea of clouds below, water at "Wilson Beach" as mentioned prev. One day of rest and then they're off to hit Stuart. Damn to be in my 20's again.......... Oh yeah they agreed with Jimbo's assessment of the "Fan" or Hourglass, they said it looked horrible up there, stay on the west edge of the Wilson.
  5. Beta on Mt. Baker North Ridge route

    I usually try to grab one of those electric scooters from Wal Mart. If you get one from the back of the line with a full charge you should be good to go for the Baker road approach. Go light or you're milage will suffer. Good luck.
  6. It's Alive, but it looks like Moab Brown Chalk!

    Definately Moab chalk. Lately the weather's been hotter/drier in the Deception Crags area than the Utah desert, so the mudclimbers have been heading north. Scoop some of that up into your chalkbag and get crimpin.
  7. Kautz conditions 6/7/09

    Good news! Is the Wilson Beach bivi the one just below the Turtle? What's this talk of a rap from Camp Hazard down to the Kautz? Anchors? In years past it was just a scramble......I have a couple buddies heading up 6/13 so was wondering. Thanks Jimbo.
  8. [TR] Mt Stuart - Complete N. Ridge & Gendarme 6/1/2009

    American made BD quality! I tied off that cam while leading the 2nd OW pitch away back in '01!!
  9. Hey are the panties still under the roof at the pitch 4 anchors??? I girth hitched those to the hangers on that trip with AlpineH. I believe that was a dynamic thong, full strength rated to 12 kn.
  10. Best U.S. Climbing Towns

    Right..........shitty and boring. I put over 8K on my motorcycle since march and have ridden in the rain ONCE!! Just got back from a glorious ride up the Big Thompson to Estes Park to scope out routes for tomorrow at Lumpy Ridge. Come on cj if it was boring here for you that's cuz you spent too much time indoors making up shit you know nothing about. People don't rave about Pierce County, they just move there.......... Was it the Alpental ice comment that got you worked up??? Surprised you haven't said anything about the Rockies.........
  11. Best U.S. Climbing Towns

    Hey you'll be thanking the good people of Longmont around the end of Nov. when your nawing on the end of a drumstick. After dinner I'll be planning a trip up to El Dora ($25 all day tickets) or perhaps cruising up to Eldo for some world class climbing in the SUNSHINE. It seems I can afford to take Friday off cuz the COST OF LIVING is low! I do miss standing at the base of some moss-covered lichen infested slab up at Exit 38, squinting into the mist and rain while my stereo get's jacked from my truck. Oh BTW, when's the annual thread start on CC.com called "Any ice up at Alpental?"
  12. Best U.S. Climbing Towns

    I solved the Boulder blight problem by simply moving 12 miles away to Longmont. Hiking today in the sun on a bluebird day I scanned for ice routes that will soon be in up at RMNP. Tomorrow I'll drive 20 min. for nice granite in St. Vrain canyon, then Monday it's 40 min. to Eldorado for literally hundreds of routes to choose from. I was raised in Seattle, yea it's a great place but the weather shuts you down way too much. Hard to go back after living with over 300 days of sunshine per year, and enough rock within an hour to keep me busy for years. Oh yea I skied over 30 days of BC last winter too. Got it all right here!
  13. Skiing Volkl Mountain 170's, Garmont AT boots, I'm 170 #'s, 6 ft. tall. Silvretta 404 AT bindings Basically what's the sequence for setting these bindings? Adjust heelplate fwd/bkd with pink rotating lever THEN heel and lateral release settings?? My boots are Mondo 28's. I'm skiing 80% BC and 20% lift served. Thanks, Barry
  14. 3 Lost on Mount Hood

    If not a climber, it's difficult to understand how much gear is essential to get up a technical route on a big mtn. Besides clothes, food, fuel, bivi sac and sleeping bag, you really shouldn't forget: Harness Helmet Ice screws (6-8 total) Pickets (3-4) Ropes (usually 2, 60 meter 9 mil) Slings to set up belays, anchors Carabiners (many) 2 technical ice tools each Crampons There's more I'm probably forgetting at this late hour. My point is that this isn't a hike!! It would be impossible to lead a pitch of 60 degree ice with 2 weeks of "extra" food and fuel. To suggest such is just plain ignorant of what Kelly, Brian, and Nikko were attempting to accomplish. We are surly now, I'm beginning to feel like our lifestyle is being questioned or put on trial by a gaggle of "expert" naysayers. I stand by our buddy's gear list, have no reason to believe that I'd have done or taken anything other than what they did on this trip. This is how these mtn's are climbed, period. Generation's of climbers world wide have perfected these techniques. On every piece of gear we buy there is a disclaimer that starts with, "Climbing is dangerous............"
  15. 3 Lost on Mount Hood

    Sad news indeed............ My condolences as well, sounds like a valiant effort at survival was played out just below the summit. Thanks SAR personnel for all your effort, there's more work to do though. Hoping for the best for the others.
  16. 3 Lost on Mount Hood

    6 a.m.?????
  17. 3 Lost on Mount Hood

    Packing up for a backcountry tour in the Front range today. Brian, Kelly and Nikko, it's a beautiful day for a rescue! I'll be thinking of you every minute of the day..........
  18. tennis elbow

    Sure your self diagnosis is correct?? Pain on the "inside of the elbow" is not a common complaint with tennis elbow (lateral epicondilitis). That's usually more on the top of your forearm.
  19. New REI Bitch Thread

    I still go there for the cheap soft goods now and then....... Neptune actually didn't have a decent selection either, they're least expensive boot was $220. Just like in the Seattle area, cross country skiing hasn't grown much in popularity over the last 10 yrs.
  20. 3 Lost on Mount Hood

    PM him directly........
  21. New REI Bitch Thread

    I now live near Boulder, Colorado. Went in to the Boulder store in early October to buy NNNBC cross country boots. They had ONE pair of boots to purchace for a woman, period. In Boulder this happened and there was SNOW IN THE MTN'S. However I did notice in my handy catalog that I can get a marshmallow rifle!!! Luckily Boulder has at least 6 other gear shops to choose from..............
  22. 3 Lost on Mount Hood

    * MT HOOD AREA- Moderate to heavy rain or snow decreasing and becoming more showery later Monday afternoon and evening. Moderate to occasionally heavy rain or snow showers increasing late Monday night and early Tuesday, decreasing and becoming mostly moderate snow showers Tuesday morning. Light to moderate snow showers decreasing mid-day and Tuesday afternoon with some partial clearing. Light to moderate rain or snow redeveloping Tuesday night, increasing and becoming moderate to heavy late Tuesday night and early Wednesday. From the NW Avy Center forecast.........could be the window needed for teams to summit or get a chopper up there........
  23. Becky sighting

    I know this is an old post, but thought I'd mention that a buddy and I ran into Fred in the Valley around the 2nd weekend in October. He was strolling down from Curry Village, said he'd just been hanging around..........we invited him up to do the Royal Arches route with us but he declined. He looked great.
  24. 3 Lost on Mount Hood

    God help them through the night. The weather's gonna break tomorrow..............warm thoughts and prayers from Colorado
  25. Ouray Ice Park News

    Was at the park 3/10-3/14 (other than a side trip to Telluride on Monday) Ice conditions were awesome with cold temps and snow flurries. The park was about 80% fat, also got up Camp Bird Mine road for some climbing at Skylight. Ouray rocks!