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Posted

Assuming your talking about the usual south face...

I would say that with the super warm conditions that we've been having that the rock would be pretty snow free, except for anything horizontal. Bring maybe one short axe for the long snow runout on the 2nd pitch 4th class bit, and bring your usual rack, for the climbing is much the same (especially if you climb it in boots during the summer).

Here's a trip report from a couple years ago. We left all our ice axes/pickets at the base and only brought about 8 pieces!http://students.washington.edu/dbb/toothwinter.html

[ 01-13-2002: Message edited by: dbb ]

Posted

I rapped down the south face on Saturday. As DBB postulated, there is a lot of loose snow on the ledges and blown into the nooks and crannies. No ice to speak of. Climbing would be gloved hands on rock or dry tooling, your choice.

There was a party getting ready to start up as we touched down. Maybe they'll post some info from their ascent?

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by Rafael H:
I saw pikas running up and down rocks with a great ease but suppose gym rats would have a hard time, wouldn't they
confused.gif" border="0

Yes those are the weakest and slowest rats I ever saw. [laf]

  • 3 months later...
Posted

quote:

Originally posted by dbb:

.....I would say that with the super warm conditions that we've been having that the rock would be pretty snow free, except for anything horizontal. Bring maybe one short axe for the long snow runout on the 2nd pitch 4th class bit, and bring your usual rack, for the climbing is much the same (especially if you climb it in boots during the summer)....

I was dissapointed to see this is still good advice as of yesterday afternoon as I sat attop the first pitch in my rock shoes trying to figure out how to use a big hex to chop steps.

 

If you are planning on going anywhere around here, bring some type of floatation devices for the approach.

 

Also surprised that we saw nobody above Source Lake on a sunny spring day [Confused]

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