Snoqualmie Pass Conditions

[Alasdair]

Just an FYI:

Check the avi forcast before you jump off the couch this weekend.

 

FRIDAY-

Generally light winds with occasional light snow showers early Friday should lead to a further decreasing danger early Friday. Increasing winds becoming very strong late Friday and Friday night and increasing rain or snow at warming temperatures late Friday should lead to an increasing danger. Mostly unstable snow should develop overnight Friday. The strong winds should easily transport recent and new snow and build large unstable wind slab layers by early Saturday.

[DirtyHarry]

Craig and John are way too good for things like avalanches, snow, and common sense to slow them down.

[John Frieh]

You forgot good looking and taller

 

Check my original post... I was asking about Sunday/early next week.

 

And avy will dictate above all. Good heads up Alasdair

[gary_hehn]

I hiked to the top of Ingrid's Inspiration near the top of Armstrong's Express lift at Alpental yesterday. Can't remember the name of the seep. There was enough ice for some climbing. I suppose the weather forecast puts it's duration in question, but thought I would report that there is some ice at this time.

Edited February 8, 2006 by gary_hehn

[robert]

With all of the people headed up to Chair and the The Tooth last weekend I imagine that someone saw some ice along the trail. I am hoping to take my Camp Fire girls up for some top roped climbing and would really appreciate any ice beta.

[selkirk]

Was any up in the area over the weekend? How's the Snow/Ice? Is there any ice left to be found?

[selkirk]

Any thoughts on whether or not the NW Gully on Guye will be in? And if so does anyone know roughly what the grade is? I'd hate to get in too far over my head.

[gyselinck]

Craig and John are way too good for things like avalanches, snow, and common sense to slow them down.

 

Who? When? Where? said I was doing what? I'm glad others are planning my trips for me. Wanna carry my pack too?

[kurthicks]

did you go up there this weekend Craig?

[gyselinck]

My senses tell me that it snowed over a foot. No I didn't go wallow up at Snoqualmie Pass.

[Stuart]

Got out yesterday and waded up South Gully of Guye Peak. Hard work through soft snow on the way in (no snowshoes) but improved on the way up. Some sluffs with the sun, but that soon disappeared behind cloud banks. Narrow corner system at circa 4750ft sporting rotten ice, so cut right through Peruvian style powder. Rapped off. Weather better than expected, some flurries.

[kurthicks]

saw some climbers on what I think is Bryant Buttress left today climbing some ice.

 

Chair NE Buttress is still in, though a little wallowy on the approach. good skiing in the Chair Bowl.

[MCash]

The central couloir on the North Face of Kent is not in. Too much sugar and breakable crust. A very nice looking face though, I'll have to try it again next year.

 

[jstreet]

Those climbers you saw climbing some ice on what you thought was Bryant Buttress left on saturday was Glen and I. We saw the climb a few weeks ago while passing thru the area. Without a clue to what it was we went up and attempted it. While leading the 2nd pitch, when I was half way thru the longish WI 4/4+ crux section, I got clobbered by a train of spindrift avalanches, about one a minute. I tried to wait them out but after about 10 of them I was just about to freeze to death so I lowered off. I consulted with Alex Krawarik (co-author of the WA Ice book) and here's what he told me...

 

The climb is called "Flow Reversal" and its been climbed twice before, first about 5-6 years ago by Andreas Schmidt

and partner, and then more recently by Roger Strong and partner, both times in the very early season before the first pitches (what you term a long snow field) become completely buried in snow. In early season conditions is rated WI5 R or X.

 

... that sounds about right, because it was fairly challenging and the protection was generally poor. There was just enough ice (not alot though) but it was aerated, and hollow.

[kurthicks]

While leading the 2nd pitch, when I was half way thru the longish WI 4/4+ crux section, I got clobbered by a train of spindrift avalanches, about one a minute.

 

I saw that spindrift. It looked absolutely miserable.