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About Stuart

  • Birthday 09/13/1974

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  1. Aiguille Verte in winter. I burnt the porridge to the bottom of the pan on the second morning 'cos I fell asleep. All our water for the next 3 days smelt and tasted like an ashtray. Couldn't get much water down us after that. We were pretty much running on empty when we got back to Chamonix. My excuse was that I was wasted from being petrified the night before when my partner's crampon fell off (while we were roped soloing in the dark) up to the summit ridge. I was not a happy chappy when I figured out what had happened!
  2. Forrest Was up at Chair today. Wasn't any better today, but thanks for the tracks past the thumb tack. I wish you'd posted this yesterday so I hadn't had to wake up at 5 this morning! What you up to? Fancy climbing something? Cheers Stuart
  3. I'm heading out from Seattle on friday to try and get up something. Any takers?? Probably just going up I-90/Snoqualmie pass because I'd like to back for beers on Friday night. PM me Cheers Stuart
  4. Andy Good job on getting out. How's the research going? Cheers Stuart
  5. I've had good luck with the fit of the Scarpa Alpha's, especially with a decent footbed inside, but they have started to come apart at the rand (I've had 3 good years use out of them). The Scarpa Omegas are nearly identical fit-wise. No problems with crampons, and they seem to climb rock pretty well. I've tried the Civetta's and didn't have enough room in the toe box for comfort in cold weather. The Vasque 9000's just rubbed my foot on a bone spur I have and were agony as soon as I put them on, but looked like a good option overall if they fit your foot. Marmot in Bellevue seemed to have the best selection when I was looking into this exact same thing a few months ago. Did the old Koflachs fit? Could always go with them again...
  6. http://www.alhughes.tv/ This has just been converted to DVD. Absolute classic!!!
  7. Call me a cynic, but maybe BD are bringing out something to rival Metolius's anchor system. Is it worth shifting this to Newbies?
  8. I found a link to this over at Andy Kirkpatrick's website. Probably the best way to explain one of the potential dangers of daisy chains I've seen. http://www.bdel.com/videos/daisy.html Yes, its "work safe".
  9. I can help out with beta. PM me what you want to know.
  10. Tyler I've got some time off this week. Been away for a while too.I've got your number so I'll give you a call. I can't do tues, but weds onwards should be ok. I've still got those guides if you're interested! Stuart
  11. Got out yesterday and waded up South Gully of Guye Peak. Hard work through soft snow on the way in (no snowshoes) but improved on the way up. Some sluffs with the sun, but that soon disappeared behind cloud banks. Narrow corner system at circa 4750ft sporting rotten ice, so cut right through Peruvian style powder. Rapped off. Weather better than expected, some flurries.
  12. Yeah, wouldn't want life to be too easy now....... Cheers for writing this up Ade. I'll try and get the photo's scanned, but they are crappy. I reckon the cold messed up the shutter or something. Murphy's Law indeed.
  13. PM me details, especially the story behind it, and hopefully you can get back what's yours. Cheers Stuart
  14. I don't suppose anyone picked up the hand-placed piton at the bottom of the descent route? for return. Cheers
  15. Oops, my mistake . Haven't got the guides in front of me, but my addled brain thinks NYC007 has it right.
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