Stuart

Aiguille Verte in winter. I burnt the porridge to the bottom of the pan on the second morning 'cos I fell asleep. All our water for the next 3 days smelt and tasted like an ashtray. Couldn't get much water down us after that. We were pretty much running on empty when we got back to Chamonix. My excuse was that I was wasted from being petrified the night before when my partner's crampon fell off (while we were roped soloing in the dark) up to the summit ridge. I was not a happy chappy when I figured out what had happened!

Forrest Was up at Chair today. Wasn't any better today, but thanks for the tracks past the thumb tack. I wish you'd posted this yesterday so I hadn't had to wake up at 5 this morning! What you up to? Fancy climbing something? Cheers Stuart

I'm heading out from Seattle on friday to try and get up something. Any takers?? Probably just going up I-90/Snoqualmie pass because I'd like to back for beers on Friday night. PM me Cheers Stuart

Andy Good job on getting out. How's the research going? Cheers Stuart

I've had good luck with the fit of the Scarpa Alpha's, especially with a decent footbed inside, but they have started to come apart at the rand (I've had 3 good years use out of them). The Scarpa Omegas are nearly identical fit-wise. No problems with crampons, and they seem to climb rock pretty well. I've tried the Civetta's and didn't have enough room in the toe box for comfort in cold weather. The Vasque 9000's just rubbed my foot on a bone spur I have and were agony as soon as I put them on, but looked like a good option overall if they fit your foot. Marmot in Bellevue seemed to have the best selection when I was looking into this exact same thing a few months ago. Did the old Koflachs fit? Could always go with them again...

http://www.alhughes.tv/ This has just been converted to DVD. Absolute classic!!!

Call me a cynic, but maybe BD are bringing out something to rival Metolius's anchor system. Is it worth shifting this to Newbies?

I found a link to this over at Andy Kirkpatrick's website. Probably the best way to explain one of the potential dangers of daisy chains I've seen. http://www.bdel.com/videos/daisy.html Yes, its "work safe".

I can help out with beta. PM me what you want to know.

Tyler I've got some time off this week. Been away for a while too.I've got your number so I'll give you a call. I can't do tues, but weds onwards should be ok. I've still got those guides if you're interested! Stuart

Got out yesterday and waded up South Gully of Guye Peak. Hard work through soft snow on the way in (no snowshoes) but improved on the way up. Some sluffs with the sun, but that soon disappeared behind cloud banks. Narrow corner system at circa 4750ft sporting rotten ice, so cut right through Peruvian style powder. Rapped off. Weather better than expected, some flurries.

Yeah, wouldn't want life to be too easy now....... Cheers for writing this up Ade. I'll try and get the photo's scanned, but they are crappy. I reckon the cold messed up the shutter or something. Murphy's Law indeed.

PM me details, especially the story behind it, and hopefully you can get back what's yours. Cheers Stuart

I don't suppose anyone picked up the hand-placed piton at the bottom of the descent route? for return. Cheers

Oops, my mistake . Haven't got the guides in front of me, but my addled brain thinks NYC007 has it right.

Colin Good to hear your getting stuff done. I guess if you're in Cham, there's a chance that you'll be leaving some winter routes in the Cascades for the rest of us. Time for nit picking - Chere is on Tacul, I think you mean North face of col du Plan??? Next to Fils a Plomb?? Mega-jealous Stuart

For people thinking of doing this, stick to the tracks as they are solid. Cheers for the hard work guys. The route is good fun, but at least one of the pillars from the left wall has fallen into the gulley. You'll see it when you get up to it. And it has a nice tree move to finish!

Just in case people were thinking of heading here over the next few days.... Thick fog at the pass to about 4500ft. Temps not too warm at all in the fog (around freezing), but super warm above it. Water pouring from above so none of the ice lines low down are forming up. Checked out the south gully of Guye Peak - no snow in it at all. Ended up wandering up the East gully - really sloppy, intermitent snow once you get above the fog. At the summit you can see how little white stuff is left on the rock - Chair east face, the tooth etc, pretty much bare. Just way too hot up here. If the fog were thicker it would be different story. Roll on the winter proper...

I don't know how it compares to the Rockies as I've haven't made the trip up there yet, but the ice can be good in January. The cremerie involves no cable cars or trains, but is lower in elevation and all that goes with that - crowds at weekends, wet ice/no ice. The ice on the banks of the Argentiere glacier or the Mer de Glace are good bets, but have avy terrain above sections of them. There's also the stuff on Mont Blanc du Tacul (Chere couloir, Supercouloir etc) which is higher, still easy to get to, but longer on average (ascent and descent). I seem to remember that the new 2 volume version of Neige, Glace et Mixte is out in Europe, but haven't seen it over here. I haven't looked very hard though... Have fun wherever you go - lucky bugger.

psychovertical.com Only just found this, but looks like loads of info. Some interesting opinions for sure.

How about a topo system for photos? Have used this on another website and thought it was a cool idea.

About Joss Naylor, it was 38,000ft up and 38,000ft down. The route he took is loosely based on the Bob Graham round (28,500ft ascent and 70 something miles). 24 hours is the target time for that baby. Klenke, check out this link. It has a crappy map there of the Bob Graham round, and lists the route and splits Mark Hartell took in 97. http://www.bobgrahamround.co.uk

Looking for people to do some Alpine next tues and weds. Got plans but I'll be happy to get anything done (being relatively new to these here parts). Got the time off from work and no bugger to go with, so Email stootaylor@yahoo.com or PM

I'm free Tues thru Friday and looking to get out and climb some alpine stuff. Anything good considered. I'm in Seattle. PM me or email stootaylor@yahoo.com Cheers Stuart

Anyone got these days free, and want to get out? PM me or email me stootaylor@yahoo.com Looking at Maude/Baker/Shuksan, or rock if the weather picks up. Cheers Stuart