Recommendations: Ice tools for a 2nd season female

[jesselillis]

I'd like to hear some opinions (hopefully some female ones) on a good ice tool for beginner women. Looking for primarily single pitch waterfall ice use. She has used the Vipers (didn't like them), Quark Ergos (didnt like them) and Aztars (thought they were ok). She's pretty set on buying a set this season, but there really aren't stores around here with a broad selection and there definitely aren't ice festivals (or much of an ice climbing scene) in the neighborhood. I know this is sort of shooting in the dark and anticipate most responses reading something like 'buying a tool you haven't used is like {doing something else dumb}', but I'd still appreciate whatever constructive advice is out there...

thanks

[fern]

If she thought the Aztars were OK then why not just get the Aztars. They're a fine tool. Pretty much all current model tools are light and have small enough grips to fit the girlies.

 

FWIW I have Quarks which I like fine, though I think the Vipers have a nicer swing. I have also cranked with old style Rambos. There isn't a "female" opinion. It's all individual.

[l0930]

I am a female climber who didn't really like any of the mentioned tools either. I like the Ty'coons better, but then I tried a set of Cassin's X-Files and loved them. The weighting, shape, and throw is similar to the Grivel Ty'coon, but they were more manuverable and didn't overstick for me. They also have an awesome leash system that is like a mini caribiner. I looked for these for a year (no more cassin ice distribution in the US) and then randomly found them yesterday on Sierra Trading Post. $195 a piece, sweet tools.

[John Frieh]

Get her what she likes. Don't make the mistake of telling her what she should/will like... it will suck if it turns out you were wrong. You will find this lesson applicable to many aspects of relationships and dating . Far, you will, go if you master it.

[tomtom]

My gf likes my Alpwings.

[Dru]

They also have an awesome leash system that is like a mini caribiner.

 

those carabiner style clipper leash systems are sooooo suck. especially the way they clank every time you swing

[rhyang]

They also have an awesome leash system that is like a mini caribiner.

 

those carabiner style clipper leash systems are sooooo suck. especially the way they clank every time you swing

 

Deal, or deal not, there is no suck.

 

Ahem. So anyway, just another datum - the quark (non-ergo) grip is about the same diameter as the aztar. Something else for her to try out.

[Alpinfox]

Get her what she likes. Don't make the mistake of telling her what she should/will like... it will suck if it turns out you were wrong. You will find this lesson applicable to many aspects of relationships and dating . Far, you will, go if you master it.

 

Thanks Dr. Phil.

[Cobra_Commander]

The quarks are dynamite. I can't think of a situation where I would rather have aztars.

[DirtyHarry]

Do the smart thing and get her what YOU want. That way if/when she doesn't like them, you will have the tools you always wanted. Perfect.

[David Trippett]

Get her what she likes. Don't make the mistake of telling her what she should/will like... it will suck if it turns out you were wrong. You will find this lesson applicable to many aspects of relationships and dating . Far, you will, go if you master it.

 

Sounds like somebody learned the hard way.....

[ajm]

I am a female and have gone out twice with Black Diamond Rage tools. I loved them. I have been DTing and ice climbing a couple times with other brands (Quark, Aztar, BD Prophets) and didnt like them as much. Hope this helps. You know John Frieh is right - get her what she wants because if you buy her a pair that doesn't suit her needs you might be buying a second pair next season.

Edited November 23, 2005 by ajm

[Steddy]

perhaps better suggestions come with her reasons for nixing the tools mentioned in first post?

[FFCS]

I could take this opportunity to make a shameless plug for my CFBP Tools (on sale in the yard sale section of this web site) but, I won't. My wife climbs with the Quarks and has climbed with grivels and black diamonds. The typical problems women have with tools is weight and grip size. The Quarks are both light and have a low volume comfortable grip. And as far as swing goes, they stick themselves into the ice, very user friendly. My suggestion is to go down to a shop that has a variety, and dry swing the different models(with gloves on etc.). You can get a pretty good feel for a tool just by doing this. Good Luck!

[FFCS]

Oh, I forgot to mention, my wife wouldn't part with her Quarks now for anything.

[glassgowkiss]

leashless are better. get her ergos. every female ice climber liked these tools.

[Alex]

but the ergos climb ice like crap compared to any ice tool (i've discovered).

 

std quarks are the e-ticket.

[glassgowkiss]

for pure ice i preffer ergos to quarks. ergos are the foremost ice climbing tool, hence i used them on climbs like curtain call, french reality, pilsner. after 2 full seasons with them all i can say: they climb on ice just fine.

[FFCS]

Glassgow, I agree with you, the ergos are nice, I used to own a pair. I just couldn't justify owning a set when I never used them on anything harder than WI4 leads, when I am leading WI5 I like having leashes. I just never got comfortable with them, paranoid about dropping one, or sliding off a grip. If your going to go leashless, why get the dated ergos, go for the new Nomics by Petzl Charlet. Has anyone tried these beautiful looking tools?

[glassgowkiss]

nomic are not in stock and most likely they won't be in n. america for sale this winter. i had a chance to look at these puppies and they might be more dry-tool then ice-mix. i just compared ergo vs quarks and they are identical up to the bottom grip.

i have never heard about anybody just slipping off the tools. i think you actually have a better chance dropping one with leashes then without. on pure ice i place the tool in ice, on mix i clip them into my ice clippers.

as far as slipping off the tool this is my take: with gloves and a couple of sleeves on your wrist i think your hand would come out of the leash anyway.

a couple of weeks ago i was seconding klatu verata n. the pitch was about M6. i started with leashes and ditched them after a few moves. my hands were getting colder and leashes were creating a total cluster fuck.

remember long slings between the harness and the tools? do you see anybody still using them?

[John Frieh]

remember long slings between the harness and the tools? do you see anybody still using them?

 

Yup. Grivel double spring/spring thing (whatever they call it) + custom drill job. PM me for details if interested.

 

Edited November 29, 2005 by John Frieh

[NYC007]

Mtn Gear here in Spokane has them in stock they are pretty nice, more extreme bend the the Ergos. The rubber tape on the upper grip is sweet and I heard at Mtn Magic that Petzl will be selling it soon too which would easier on our gloves..

[John Frieh]

US Outdoor (a cc.com sponsor!) in PDX has nomics in stock too

[glassgowkiss]

remember long slings between the harness and the tools? do you see anybody still using them?

 

Yup. Grivel double spring/spring thing (whatever they call it) + custom drill job. PM me for details if interested.

i'd rather lose a tool then have an abdominal puncture wound.

[John Frieh]

 

How would you get a puncture wound? The elastic is cut long enough that you don't accelerate/pull them towards you any faster than a pair of tails would. I add a 12" runner in between my harness and the harness clip to ensure I never hit the limit of the elastic.