Sleeper Rock Routes

[Peter_Puget]

Body & Soul at Castle Rock. This is a fun crank thru a roof.

[olyclimber]

Deju vu? Its not just for strippers!

[Peter_Puget]

Oly I'm not talkin' Alpine routes I'm talkin' crag routes. You know those routes that pack in all the goodness of a long alpine route into a pitch or two. Routes that would be great alternatives if your first choice was in use.

Edited November 8, 2005 by Peter_Puget

[slaphappy]

Pinky and the Starfish - 85' of 18" squeeze chimney with a perfect handcrack inside that continues up a steep bubbly face after exiting the squeeze. 150ish feet of perfection.

[Dru]

Papoose One! While the hordes are queueing up Centrefold you can be permanently damaging your knee in the flared chimney next door. Then you get not one, but two traverses, a slab, and sweet hand cracks too.

[ScottP]

West Face of Peakaboo Tower.

[bobbyperu]

"pinky and the starfish" first pitch is 4 stars all the way...probably the cleanest ground-up pitch i've led up in the Great Polish Towers...if not anywhere. the rest of the route up Cameltoe Tower is finger-lickin good...

[billcoe]

Kunza Korner at Smith always seems empty/devoid of lines and hordes of climbers and brings me great happiness. That and I can often show up radiacally out of shape and crank it anyway. That fact alone always adds a star or 2 in my mental book.

 

Must be the long 1/2 mile of flat trail-extreme hiking which keeps people away.

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

Most of Shipwreck Wall...rarely crowded, always quality (except for FotPSB -- ).

 

How about also Bloodshot & Crack Babies. If those weren't stashed up on the high side of Cocaine Gully, there would be non-stop traffic on both.

 

 

Go send a tuff gem, friends!

[chucK]

I've always been partial to Old Gray Mare -> Crack of Doom at Castle Rock. Is that one uncrowded enough to qualify?

 

And of course Free at Last, aka "Tatoosh", at Index. It's never crowded!

Though you may get the crowds at the base of Thin Fingers whispering and tittering behind your backs as you launch up ol' "Steep n' Dirty".

[Orange_Julius]

I recommend Projet Hexcentrique on the wall behind the school. Phenomenal splitter handcrack and pretty easy at 5.9.

[specialed]

Where's that? Renton Community College?

[sexual_chocolate]

Das Muzak on Castle Rock comes to mind....

[Orange_Julius]

Where's that? Renton Community College?

 

yeah near there. sounds like you have been on some of those lines. they are a lot cleaner now that they've seen some traffic. thanks to whoever put the chains up there to save the trees up top.

[Dru]

The gully to get down there is getting friggin' trashed, though.

[Orange_Julius]

yeah people try to go down there when it's wet so it's become a little sloppy. Since the roof is just slightly overhung you can climb there in a light rain. There is some dry tooling potential over in the chossier stuff to the right as well. Reminds me a bit of Haffner Creek (w/o the sweet ice routes, that is).

[jmace]

"pinky and the starfish" first pitch is 4 stars all the way... probably the cleanest ground-up pitch i've led

 

This imperative whenever heading to the starfish!!!

 

 

On a serious note Papoose 1 is a good climb especially now that its been cleaned up.

[Peter_Puget]

I recommend Projet Hexcentrique on the wall behind the school. Phenomenal splitter handcrack and pretty easy at 5.9.

 

How can an area with 2 or 3 routes have a sleeper!?!?!!?!

[Orange_Julius]

Not really a sleeper, but it doesn't seem like many people know about those routes in general. There could be a few more routes there if people wanted to do some cleaning, but they would not be as nice as what is already set up there. There could be a good number of bolted dry tooling lines if someone had the time and energy.

[slaphappy]

West Face of Peakaboo Tower.

 

Agreed.

[bwrts]

Hey bp or sH, are the great polish towers where the coyote tower and "the route" reside? Or are you referring to another place for stupid human tricks?

 

The Cave route on Icicle Butt is a fun alternative to R&D's typical queuing...course, the route finding is a bit more tricky.

 

Snow Tick Crag:

MJ Dihedral instead of Orbit.

RpM instead of Outerspace.

 

Condor buttress....bring a rack and climb one of the gear routes (to the climbers left) instead of clipping the bolted highway, that is condormorphine addiction...

 

BirdNest Overhang, Idiot's Delight or finishing the Fault route to Loggers ledge instead of Catapult or the bone.

 

Blood Transfusion or clean Love instead of Mr clean or Smut.

 

Winter Solstice instead of Midway.

[bobbyperu]

"pinky and the starfish" first pitch is 4 stars all the way... probably the cleanest ground-up pitch i've led

 

"This imperative whenever heading to the starfish!!!"

 

 

maybe... but its more like you expect a bit of "dirt", and are cool with that. then pleasantly surprised to slide on out of the polished slot sqeaky clean...with bottlenecked hand and fist jams and perfect pro

 

 

and bwrts; to answer your question...i don't really know but its up high, south-facing, and has the good stone.

 

whats "coyote tower"...?is that near dandome..?

Edited November 10, 2005 by bobbyperu

[jmace]

[bwrts]

coyote is the obvious tower in the middle towards the skyline as you begin the deathmarch upwards and yup by dan's dome.

is your tower in this area?

[slaphappy]

Oh, Dandome, I've seen that... cool cracks. Isn't Jizz Ridge just east of there?

 

bwrts- sounds like you are renaming The Strayhorn?

 

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