grade discussion

[glassgowkiss]

well, mike's post is drifting into spray- so i think let's leave the route description to fa party and move this into spray.

josh wrote

I was not referring to your take on the grade, but rather your angry insulting of everybody for not climbing like you, or how you think everybody should climb.

 

i think there is a huge difference between reading another stuart nr tr and a new route description. discussing grades is always healthy. another write-up about wank fest on some moderate classic isn't.

[Dru]

Even though this route is a VI on American scale its probably only D+ or TD- on Euro scale due to ease of bailing... discuss.

 

The quality of the route has nothing to do with the grade, but the chestbeat factor is more associated with the grade than the quality.. discuss.

 

Everyone but me is a whiny little bitch and you all suck: discuss.

 

[glassgowkiss]

dru is a cunt- discuss

[EWolfe]

It seems that traditionally in the traverses of the North Cascades, they are given a difficulty of a "single push" grade in the FA's style.

 

Sure, that can be lessened by bailing, but it still represents a level of preparedness one must assume to repeat the feat.

[layton]

my shit this morning was a grade VII b/c it took multiple pushes

[Dave_Schuldt]

Well mine was a grade Vlll so top that!

[kix]

grade whores

[Dru]

my shit this morning was a grade VII b/c it took multiple pushes

 

Who was pushing your shit and did he leave you a tip? or draw you a mustache

[glassgowkiss]

my was a tripple coiler- top that biatch!

[EWolfe]

my was a tripple coiler- top that biatch!

 

 

Isn't it a little early in the season?

[glassgowkiss]

never too early to lay some fresh track on the back of the bowl.

[wayne]

3-coil Cornbacked Rattler

[JoshK]

Well, good to see this one fell to shit so quick

 

It does pose an interesting point tho...should two long mileage ridge traverses, one where you are always one rap from reasonable scrambling/walking ground and the other where it is majorly hard to bail from be the same grade? Doesn't seem like it - and it seems most agree. That is why I was more than willing to say the N pickets was a VI - there is almost nowhere on that ridge where it is easy to get off, and even once off the ridge it is extremely difficult to get back to anything remotely resembling safe ground. And, for the final kick in the nuts, you have to get out of the range entirely. I imagine this WA pass traverse is easier to bail from (mike, comment?) but offset by significantly harder technical pitches. Most all, peeps gotta go and repeat all these!

[olyclimber]

okay so jay z has much much more money than nas. and he has more fame than nas. also, he's gonna be president/ceo/whatever of def jam or universal. but NAS in my opinion, is the better lyricist, better rapper. but jay z, i liked reasonable doubt and dynasty. nas i liked illmatic, i am, some off it was written and stillmatic.

[lummox]

i got an f in physics. i dont want to discuss that grade.

[layton]

here, let me end the discussion.

The Washington Pass Traverse is a grade 6 ridge traverse, not a grade 6 wall route.

 

you can bail at any point you want on any climb with a crack on it. in fact, many grade 6 wall routes have fixed anchors. and if they didn't, you could drill a bolt and rap off that. would a grade VI wall route next to a gulley not be a grade 6 b/c you could swing over to the gully and walk down? i don't think you could call a "link up" anything more than the grade of the hardest route, but this wasn't a link up, it follows an "obvious line" just like any other "route"

 

Finally the word of peter croft holds one million times more weight for me than lookie-lou's hypothosizing about a truly useless number from their keyboard.

 

i can't believe i'm posting this. i hate grade and ethics discussions. they are for boring meetings, people doing new things with the sport, and old retired climbers. i'd delete it if i didn't spend several wasted moments of my life typing this.

[Stefan]

Many of you have responses and passion about grades like some people have responses and passion about speed climbing or hiking.

[olyclimber]

No, I just do it for the sheer enjoyment. I don't time or rate my spray. Your post, however is an S4.7B+E. Your daring reference gives it the + rating, but the E is for your noted lack of passion even though you use the word "passion". the peanut gallery sends its regards.

Edited September 22, 2005 by jon

[archenemy]

No, I just do it for the sheer enjoyment. I don't time or rate my spray. Your post, however is an S4.7B+E. Your daring reference gives it the + rating, but the E is for your noted lack of passion even though you use the word "passion". the peanut gallery sends its regards.

I give it a C-

Edited September 22, 2005 by jon

[olyclimber]

your effort at grading is a B+. Keep up the good work.

[Dechristo]

I give it a C-

 

It is better to give than receive.

[archenemy]

your effort at grading is a B+. Keep up the good work.

Your commentary on my grading is a 3.4

on a 4 point scale.

[olyclimber]

Your use of the 4 point scale, on a scale of 3 to 8.5 is a 7.4. But the effortless style requires a different measure, because style is something quite a apart from the appropriate use of a scaling system. The amazing ease, the look, everthing has come together for you.

[olyclimber]

Perhaps we should have Paula Abdul grading all climbs independantly, from now on.

[Dru]

I think we should use the euro grades.