sketchfest Posted August 10, 2005 Posted August 10, 2005 I'm looking for an all day climbing shoe that is #1 comfortable to wear all day and #2 has some performance value and does not feel like it is built like a board. I would use this shoe for mostly multi-pitch climbs in the .10a-b range. Anybody got any suggestions Quote
mattyg Posted August 10, 2005 Posted August 10, 2005 I've had pretty good luck with the Scarpa Marathon. The heel is padded and has dotted traction on it. A very comfortable shoe. Quote
catbirdseat Posted August 10, 2005 Posted August 10, 2005 The Montrail Splitter is a very comfortable shoe. Friends who have the shoe have told me they find them comfortable too. Quote
thelawgoddess Posted August 10, 2005 Posted August 10, 2005 i use my la sportiva mythos. they rock. some people prefer more support, but i prefer the feel and i've worn them quite comfortably all day. Quote
kioti Posted August 10, 2005 Posted August 10, 2005 I second the Marathon. Unlined, cushy heel, holds up pretty well. just turns your feet yellow. Quote
selkirk Posted August 10, 2005 Posted August 10, 2005 I've got some splitters i've been pretty happy with. They can certainly outclimb my lazy ass and i've had them on up to 8 or 10 hrs at a stretch and haven't lost any toenail Quote
mattyg Posted August 11, 2005 Posted August 11, 2005 I second the Marathon. Unlined, cushy heel, holds up pretty well. just turns your feet yellow. I broke my pair in by putting them on, getting them wet and then wearing them until they were dry. My feet looked jaundiced for a week! Quote
Crack Posted August 11, 2005 Posted August 11, 2005 just buy shit that fits comfortably -with climbing shoes that would be BIG. screw sizing them smaller than your street wear, or soaking them in water overnight, etc. if you're gonna hang in them all day climbing easy/moderates, size your shoes a half or whole size larger than what you normally wear. 5.8 for life! Quote
plexus Posted August 12, 2005 Posted August 12, 2005 Mad Rock Flash. Good all-around slipper that is the first pair of shoes that don't kill my feet (I have Morton's toe) since my first pair of Scarpas. Wouldn't do any serious jamming in them, but was surprised at how well they edged. Plus they cost as much as two tanks of gas. Quote
iain Posted August 13, 2005 Posted August 13, 2005 The Mythos cycle is fun. A new pair is great as a thin sporty climb shoe when agonizingly tight. They stretch out a bit and enter a sweet spot period for a few weeks where they are really comfortable and work well on anything. Then finally they become roomy, the wear-all-day shoe, but still perform great. I've no idea why they cost as much as LS' latest designs though. Seem a bit overpriced at retail for a shoe that has been around since the late 80's or so. Quote
darrington_ghetto_climber Posted August 13, 2005 Posted August 13, 2005 I would love to met the genius that sold the idea of wearing climbing shoes a size smaller than your street shoes to improve your rocks skills. Comfortable shoes equals comfortable climbing. I either have the skills and the stamina to accomplish a pitch or I dont. If I attach clothes pins to my testticles so they hurt will it make me a better lover? (I tried and it didin't) Quote
Don_Serl Posted August 13, 2005 Posted August 13, 2005 one more vote for the Mythos, sized so you can get sox into them. buy 'em fairly tight to begin with - they stretch... cheers, Quote
kioti Posted August 13, 2005 Posted August 13, 2005 If I attach clothes pins to my testticles so they hurt will it make me a better lover? (I tried and it didin't) I wear a 45 regularly but my marathons are 43.5 and fit great, couldn't imagine going bigger. I have a pair of 5.10 slippers that are 45 and I can't wear them. Anyone want to buy a pair of V10s? Quote
Dru Posted August 19, 2005 Posted August 19, 2005 I got a pair of Boreal Diablos on closeout, they are the same size(9) as my Aces but for some reason way more comfy to wear all day long and have become exclusive mountain shoes. Quote
Alpinfox Posted August 19, 2005 Posted August 19, 2005 I bet those Diablos (all black) are great on hot sunny days on the slabs eh? Whatever shoes fit you comfortably will be good all day shoes. I had high hopes for the scarpa marathons, but they don't fit me very well. I have a narrow foot. My boreal aces (now rotten and retired) were probably the best all day shoe I've used. If they still made the Huecos with the heel padding (like MisterE has), I think that would be a great shoe if they fit you. Quote
sketchfest Posted August 19, 2005 Author Posted August 19, 2005 Boreal Aces. If you can find them. Is that what your climbin in Rob? I saw some recently and thought they looked a little clunky....maybe that's just my huge flipper feet and not the shoe Quote
rbw1966 Posted August 23, 2005 Posted August 23, 2005 Is that what your climbin in Rob? I saw some recently and thought they looked a little clunky....maybe that's just my huge flipper feet and not the shoe Yeah--its what I climb in for most stuff, but I'm not a 5.13 climber like you. I've worn them all day and never whimpered--not something I could do with my other shoes. Quote
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