Liberty Crack Rack

[selkirk]

I'm interested in taking a shot at Liberty Crack eventually (possibly this fall?) I'm not worried about the free climbing sections, but I was wondering what sort of aid gear I need to fix the first three pitches?

I'm assuming some of the standard stuff

2x aiders per person, 2x ascenders per person, 1 or 2 fifi hooks per person, 1-2 daisy chains (or equivalent personal anchors) per person.

 

My real quesion is .... What aid-pro will I need? micro nuts, ball nuts, cam hooks, regular hooks, this part I have no idea on.

 

I'm planning on doing some practice aid pitches before trying it of course to get familiar with the gear so I oculd also use some recommendations on good pitches (Vantage, Leavenworth, or E-38)

 

Thanks in advance all.

[Alpinfox]

From the stuff you listed, it sounds like you don't know how to aid. (e.g. Two ascenders/person? Might as well bring the portaledge while you are at it.) Go try a few one/two pitch aid routes at Index with your partner.

 

I also wouldn't underestimate the free pitches up higher. You should be a solid 5.9/10- trad leader if you hope to do the route in a day, even with fixing the first three pitches.

 

As for the aid rack, some offset nuts, small nuts, offset aliens (nice but not required) and one bathook should be all you need in addition to a typical free rack. Cam hooks will speed you up, but they take a bit of practice and some faith.

[Dru]

Cue "Slow party on Lib Bell" rant post in September.

[selkirk]

Cue "Slow party on Lib Bell" rant post in September.

 

damn straight! I have no clue how to aid! Which is why I wanted to try to aid at least a few pitches before I take a shot at it.

And yes, i'm a reasonably solid 5.9/5.10- climber, at least in the gym anyways!

 

As for the gear....

So what you recommend for gear to take in addition to free climbing gear?

 

Any prefered brands of offset nuts? And for the small nuts do you mean small but standard BD's or DMM Peanuts, or something else?

 

Thanks

[Cobra_Commander]

And yes, i'm a reasonably solid 5.9/5.10- climber, at least in the gym anyways!

 

I hope this is a joke.

[slothrop]

HB Offsets are the best. Take small (#1-3) standard nuts if you have them, but don't go out and buy them just for this one route.

 

Go and aid City Park and Iron Horse, then run laps on Godzilla. If you can't run laps on Godzilla, I'm guessing Liberty Crack will kick your ass.

[shapp]

Two sets of regular stoppers and cam hooks, in addition to your standard free climbing cam rack is all you need. The cam hooks are the single best thing you could bring to speed your aid on LC as long as you know how to use them.

[John Frieh]

Day 1: Fix pitches 1-3 with 2 60 m ropes tied together. 2 60 m ropes will easily span the distance. Rap the lines and return to the car.

 

Day 1 rack: 2 full sets of stoppers; double set of cams up to 3". 2 1/2" cam hooks, 2 3/4" cam hooks. 1 1/2" angle, 1 #4 bugaboo. (pins are only if pins are missing from the route) 12 - 15 runners (including at least 2 tie offs). Hammer. 1 set of aiders per person (1 daisy per aider), 1 fifi per person, 1 set of ascenders for the team (you won't need 2 pairs until the second day).

 

Day 2: Jug lines to top of fixed line. Climb route to top.

 

Day 2 rack: medium to large trad rack to 3"s

 

By climbing all the aid the first day you can then leave all your aid gear (hammer, pins, etc) at your car the second day and take a standard free climbing rack. This will save you weight and speed you up the wall quickly.

 

If you can't lead solid 5.10 trad you shouldn't get on this route.

 

Recommended presequites:

- both aid routes on monkey face (ideally both in a day)

- some link ups (in a day) that makes you practice swapping leads quickly... a few to consider: orbit/outerspace, west face/nw corner of NEWS, east face of lexington/SEWS SW rib (the 5.9 option), etc etc

 

Breaking up the route over two days and not sleeping on the wall allows you to avoid hauling and being able to leave all your aid gear the second day.

 

The make or break for this routes is being speedy... you can gain time by practicing a ton with you cam hooks, your jugs and cleaning gear (unless you want to leave some gear) before you go.

 

Liberty Crack was my friend Brock's 3rd multi pitch climb he did great because he praticed all those things before he went.

[John Frieh]

From the stuff you listed, it sounds like you don't know how to aid. e.g. Two ascenders/person?

 

Ummm... how else do you propose to ascend the rope? Bite the rope with your mouth while you slide the other one up? 2 ascenders per person is standard.

[Alpinfox]

From the stuff you listed, it sounds like you don't know how to aid. e.g. Two ascenders/person?

 

Ummm... how else do you propose to ascend the rope? Bite the rope with your mouth while you slide the other one up? 2 ascenders per person is standard.

 

One wants two ascenders/team (not person) dumbshit.

[matt_m]

From the stuff you listed, it sounds like you don't know how to aid. e.g. Two ascenders/person?

 

Ummm... how else do you propose to ascend the rope? Bite the rope with your mouth while you slide the other one up? 2 ascenders per person is standard.

 

One wants two ascenders/team (not person) dumbshit.

 

Two ascenders per team ONLY if you're not hauling in which case you most certainly would want two ascenders per person - one cleans while the other hauls. Way too quick on the dumb-shit call there tough guy...

[selkirk]

From the stuff you listed, it sounds like you don't know how to aid. e.g. Two ascenders/person?

 

Ummm... how else do you propose to ascend the rope? Bite the rope with your mouth while you slide the other one up? 2 ascenders per person is standard.

 

One wants two ascenders/team (not person) dumbshit.

 

So how exactly would 2 people ascend the fixed lines on the second day with only 1 ascender each?

 

If you were short fixing and completing the climb in one day from the ground up then you'd only need 2 per/team as 1 person is always on lead and 1 belaying the jugging.

 

But if you fix the first 3 pitches on day 1 you have 2 people jugging on day 2 which certainly seems like it would require at least 2 ascenders each.

[mattp]

I think a pair of ascenders per climber is fairly standard, Mr. Fox. Yes, you could leave one pair behind if you are not going to be doing any hauling and if you are not going to fix any ropes.

[Alpinfox]

True. If you are going to haul () or fix pitches ( ), you might want another set of ascenders. However, for hauling, a minitraxion (one-way pulley) would be preferable. Then the hauler only needs one ascender. For jugging (at least on LC), the first can lower the ascenders down the fixed line to the second to avoid carrying more shit than necessary. Keep in mind if you fix the first three pitches, you have to carry an extra rope over the route or drop it to the base and pick it up later. Either = a lot of extra work.

 

Whatever. Good luck.

 

 

 

I didn't base my "dumbshit" comment purely on NOLSe's post here; I arrived at that conclusion only after months of observation.

[tomtom]

From the stuff you listed, it sounds like you don't know how to aid. e.g. Two ascenders/person?

 

Ummm... how else do you propose to ascend the rope? Bite the rope with your mouth while you slide the other one up? 2 ascenders per person is standard.

 

One wants two ascenders/team (not person) dumbshit.

 

So how exactly would 2 people ascend the fixed lines on the second day with only 1 ascender each?

 

Body hoist. Duh.

 

But this means you are carrying two Grigris.

 

Of course, ascenders can mean Tiblocs.

[glassgowkiss]

ok let's just end this wank fest. a competent party can climb this route easy in a day at 10+ A1. if you can climb at 10+ there is a whole 40 ft of aid on this climb plus couple of other A0. it's 12 pitches long with a lot of 8/9 higher up. so it's an hour a pitch. just fucking go, do some training climbs, then go and do this one and stop this nonsense on this bb of tortured sould wank fest. you can do it with a set and a half of cams, some stoppers and a few brass nuts. people were climbing this climb for a few decades now, it's in at least like 4 guidebooks. so stop playing sherock, and start training. the amount of time people spend on this bb vs training is so out of whack- it's just plain stupid. just shut the fuck up!

[tomtom]

I thought you quit?

[John Frieh]

I didn't base my "dumbshit" comment purely on NOLSe's post here; I arrived at that conclusion only after months of observation.

 

While you're backpedaling would mind explaining how you can "arrive" at a conclusion about someone that you have never even met? Or do you feel someone's online behavior on a CBB is a good judge of character?

 

Bob's right... 1 day is plenty if you have your shit dialed. However we all remember how our first wall went... I think 2 days is a good plan. Have fun

 

And one other gear item! A shit tube or wag bag (or both!)... The amount of rotting turds at the base of that route is disgusting.

[Ireneo_Funes]

What in the name of all that's holy is a "wag bag"?

[Alex]

a blue bag

[Ireneo_Funes]

I guess I figured that, but why "wag"?

[rbw1966]

Waste and Garbage

[Ireneo_Funes]

Oh. That makes sense.

[dberdinka]

ok let's just end this wank fest. a competent party can climb this route easy in a day at 10+ A1. if you can climb at 10+ there is a whole 40 ft of aid on this climb plus couple of other A0. it's 12 pitches long with a lot of 8/9 higher up. so it's an hour a pitch. just fucking go, do some training climbs, then go and do this one and stop this nonsense on this bb of tortured sould wank fest. you can do it with a set and a half of cams, some stoppers and a few brass nuts. people were climbing this climb for a few decades now, it's in at least like 4 guidebooks. so stop playing sherock, and start training. the amount of time people spend on this bb vs training is so out of whack- it's just plain stupid. just shut the fuck up!

 

FREAKIN CLASSIC!!! AND THE BEST ADVICE HERE IMHO