chucK Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 5.0-5.4: the second number indicates the maximum distance (in feet) between good holds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 4th class is 4th class. 5.0, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3 5.4, and 5.5 are all 5th class Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 what about 5.2c R? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 What about R2D2? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 4th class is 4th class. 5.0, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3 5.4, and 5.5 are all 5th class  Always so helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 Well, shit, anything more precise would require a venn diagram Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrogers Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 Second the recommendation for Klahanie crack- bring lots of .75-2" pieces. Urine Too Deep is a 5.8 just further up the hill and worth doing if you are in the vicinity- I remember some wierdness with the walk off. Park in the Shannon Falls lot and then head south on the bridge- the climbers path will be obvious on the East (lefthand) side of the rode. Â Octopus Garden is a nice shady alternative and has a wide variety of grades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 Octopus Garden ... has a wide variety of grades. Â you mean like 10 5.8 climbs and one 11b is a "wide variety"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted May 27, 2005 Author Share Posted May 27, 2005 Is the squamish airport forecast on weather.com really accurate? It says it will be like 92 degrees Sat and Sun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mec Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 perfect weather for slab climbing on the apron!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted May 27, 2005 Author Share Posted May 27, 2005 mmmmmmmmmmm greasy slab Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted May 27, 2005 Author Share Posted May 27, 2005 Maybe suggestions for shady crags would be in order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mec Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 any climb after 9 pm... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 Maybe suggestions for shady crags would be in order.  BulletHeads  Someone wanna tell me how to start up this 16 pitch 10a/b linkup Dru was sprayin about?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 i am going to squish this weekend (sun/mon) so stay away you washington wankers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 reminder: falcon closures  I heard a rumour that the closure area may be expanded to include parts of the Grand Wall, as it was a few years back when the birds nested in the Flats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 trog, there aren't a whole lot of great moderate sport climbs in squamish, but ZOE is a fun single-pitch 5.10a over at murrin park. (pretty short walk from the parking lot.) as suggested above, i also highly recommend KLAHANIE CRACK as a must-do. long-ish hike but it's through nice woods and really a fun easy 5.7 hand crack. squamish has a multitude of nice moderate multi-pitch trad routes. maybe it's time to convert your partner to the more enjoyable side of climbing! i hope you have fun up there. that's where i learned to climb cracks and multi-pitch routes, and it is one of my favorite places in this world. also, if you can find someone to give you directions, go up north a little and do STAR CHEK - you drop over the side of the hwy and rap down to the chekamus river and climb back out. (i think it's about 3 pitches or so of up to 5.8 sport - i can't remember for sure.) highly recommended on a hot day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 As I understand it, Star Chek and all the routes in that area are highly NOT recommended right now due to damage to rock and hardware from highway construction: loose rock and general sketchiness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted May 27, 2005 Author Share Posted May 27, 2005 How long is the approach to Klahanie? I figured we'd stop there first on the way up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 dude you ask too many questions. you should just chill out and have an adventure learning your way around squamish yourself. Â the approach to klahanie crack is about 10 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 Climb on the apron in the early am and you'll be in the shade if you keep moving. Enjoy the early summer weekend! Â Hey Fern you back from the road? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 if you can find parking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 There is no fucking shade anywhere at Squamish. You will shrivel up like worms under a magnifying glass. Beware. Go to WA PASS instead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 As I understand it, Star Chek and all the routes in that area are highly NOT recommended right now due to damage to rock and hardware from highway construction: loose rock and general sketchiness. sorry, fern; i didn't realize that was an issue. i guess it will be an ongoing one for some time, eh? sucks to be on the way to 2010. oh, well ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted May 31, 2005 Author Share Posted May 31, 2005 Had a great weekend cragging at squamish. Thanks for all the input. Aside from shannon falls, we didn't encounter too many people surprisingly. Climbed at neat and cool for half the day on Sat, Shannon falls and Alexis Cracks on Sun, and Penny Lane on Mon morning. Managed to climb many of classics I had noted in the McLane guide. Almost everything we climbed (except Alexis Cracks) I'd consider among the best single pitch I've done. Neglecting the handful of not-so memorable routes we did, these were all exceptional in my opinion:  Cat Crack Flying Circus Local Boys (1st pitch) Klahanie Crack Quarry Man 10C slab next to quarry man (TR) Penny Lane  Cardhu crack was really nice also, but didn't quite compare to the beauty of Klahanie. Can't wait to go back and climb some longer routes, as well as explore more of the bluffs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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