Squamish on Memorial Day Weekend

[chucK]

5.0-5.4: the second number indicates the maximum distance (in feet) between good holds.

[Dru]

4th class is 4th class.

5.0, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3 5.4, and 5.5 are all 5th class

[olyclimber]

what about 5.2c R?

[Alan]

What about R2D2?

[Blake]

4th class is 4th class.

5.0, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3 5.4, and 5.5 are all 5th class

 

Always so helpful.

[Dru]

Well, shit, anything more precise would require a venn diagram

[fredrogers]

Second the recommendation for Klahanie crack- bring lots of .75-2" pieces. Urine Too Deep is a 5.8 just further up the hill and worth doing if you are in the vicinity- I remember some wierdness with the walk off. Park in the Shannon Falls lot and then head south on the bridge- the climbers path will be obvious on the East (lefthand) side of the rode.

 

Octopus Garden is a nice shady alternative and has a wide variety of grades.

[Dru]

Octopus Garden ... has a wide variety of grades.

 

you mean like 10 5.8 climbs and one 11b is a "wide variety"?

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Is the squamish airport forecast on weather.com really accurate? It says it will be like 92 degrees Sat and Sun.

[mec]

perfect weather for slab climbing on the apron!!!

[TrogdortheBurninator]

mmmmmmmmmmm greasy slab

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Maybe suggestions for shady crags would be in order.

[mec]

any climb after 9 pm...

[dberdinka]

Maybe suggestions for shady crags would be in order.

 

BulletHeads

 

Someone wanna tell me how to start up this 16 pitch 10a/b linkup Dru was sprayin about??

[glassgowkiss]

i am going to squish this weekend (sun/mon) so stay away you washington wankers.

[fern]

reminder:

falcon closures

 

I heard a rumour that the closure area may be expanded to include parts of the Grand Wall, as it was a few years back when the birds nested in the Flats.

[thelawgoddess]

trog, there aren't a whole lot of great moderate sport climbs in squamish, but ZOE is a fun single-pitch 5.10a over at murrin park. (pretty short walk from the parking lot.) as suggested above, i also highly recommend KLAHANIE CRACK as a must-do. long-ish hike but it's through nice woods and really a fun easy 5.7 hand crack. squamish has a multitude of nice moderate multi-pitch trad routes. maybe it's time to convert your partner to the more enjoyable side of climbing! i hope you have fun up there. that's where i learned to climb cracks and multi-pitch routes, and it is one of my favorite places in this world. also, if you can find someone to give you directions, go up north a little and do STAR CHEK - you drop over the side of the hwy and rap down to the chekamus river and climb back out. (i think it's about 3 pitches or so of up to 5.8 sport - i can't remember for sure.) highly recommended on a hot day!

[fern]

As I understand it, Star Chek and all the routes in that area are highly NOT recommended right now due to damage to rock and hardware from highway construction: loose rock and general sketchiness.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

How long is the approach to Klahanie? I figured we'd stop there first on the way up.

[fern]

dude you ask too many questions. you should just chill out and have an adventure learning your way around squamish yourself.

 

the approach to klahanie crack is about 10 minutes.

[chelle]

Climb on the apron in the early am and you'll be in the shade if you keep moving. Enjoy the early summer weekend!

 

Hey Fern you back from the road?

[jmace]

if you can find parking

[Dru]

There is no fucking shade anywhere at Squamish. You will shrivel up like worms under a magnifying glass. Beware. Go to WA PASS instead

[thelawgoddess]

As I understand it, Star Chek and all the routes in that area are highly NOT recommended right now due to damage to rock and hardware from highway construction: loose rock and general sketchiness.

sorry, fern; i didn't realize that was an issue. i guess it will be an ongoing one for some time, eh? sucks to be on the way to 2010. oh, well ...

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Had a great weekend cragging at squamish. Thanks for all the input. Aside from shannon falls, we didn't encounter too many people surprisingly. Climbed at neat and cool for half the day on Sat, Shannon falls and Alexis Cracks on Sun, and Penny Lane on Mon morning. Managed to climb many of classics I had noted in the McLane guide. Almost everything we climbed (except Alexis Cracks) I'd consider among the best single pitch I've done. Neglecting the handful of not-so memorable routes we did, these were all exceptional in my opinion:

 

Cat Crack

Flying Circus

Local Boys (1st pitch)

Klahanie Crack

Quarry Man

10C slab next to quarry man (TR)

Penny Lane

 

Cardhu crack was really nice also, but didn't quite compare to the beauty of Klahanie. Can't wait to go back and climb some longer routes, as well as explore more of the bluffs.