Dru Posted April 11, 2005 Posted April 11, 2005 Two people and 9 pairs of shoes from BC (!! ) went cragging in 11worth. The climbers were: Mer (rope gun) Dru (sprayer) We didn't actually switch shoes mid-pitch, but I think we did wear different pairs of shoes on every route we climbed. Friday climbed at Icicle Butt and area. Saturday climbed at Sam Hill area. Sunday climbed at Castle Rock area. Made a few sightings - Alex in der Safeway parking lot, and the back side of Cpt.Caveman and Chepe heading for Castle Rock Saturday AM. Found some booty - a rigid Friend on the B.O.B. Wall. Found some more booty in the form of a nut and hex on Castle but they were stuck too good to get out so they are still there Last route we climbed on Castle Sunday was "Century". In 1991, when I was leading Sabre for maybe my 3rd or 4th lead ever, my friends Kobus and Muriel did Century so they could keep an eye on me and maybe swing over if I got into difficulty.. and I have always had this idea that Century was hard and scary. Well it isn't hard but it is scary! Of the first 5 pieces I had in 2 fell out and 2 more were crap tHen it gets solid but easier. It might have been the funnest climb I did all weekend. No ticks but hundreds of thousands of snaffles were seen. Good times Quote
kurthicks Posted April 11, 2005 Posted April 11, 2005 That hex just above the Saber ledge has been there forever. I try to get it every time I'm there. There's also one on Catapault. Quote
Dru Posted April 11, 2005 Author Posted April 11, 2005 That hex is strange...it moves around easily, and it doesn't seem beat on at all. And yet it is in a pocket that it seems like it cannot fit through the entrance of. how did it get in there? Did the rock grow around it Also I looked in Der Sportsman and Leavenworth Mtn Sports and couldn't find any donation boxes for the Save Sam Hill fund so I guess I'm gonna have to donate online. Quote
pope Posted April 11, 2005 Posted April 11, 2005 Well it isn't hard but it is scary! Of the first 5 pieces I had in 2 fell out and 2 more were crap tHen it gets solid but easier. It might have been the funnest climb I did all weekend. Dude, remind me not to call you when I'm partnerless. Free soloing sounds safer. Quote
Dru Posted April 11, 2005 Author Posted April 11, 2005 Ya I was looking at that photo in the guide of you soloing Brass Balls. are you wearing Fire's with tube socks! Quote
Mer Posted April 11, 2005 Posted April 11, 2005 Dru exaggerates, I'm a sad excuse for a ropegun, there were only seven pairs of shoes, three of the five pieces were adequate, one pulled out and one was pretty marginal. The place was alive with snaffles though, no ticks sighted, but I had dozens of twitchy, phantom-tick false alarms. Good times booty Quote
Stemalot Posted April 12, 2005 Posted April 12, 2005 Dru, you don't use rigid friends...in fact I don't think you have any rigid friends...why not donate your booty to me? Quote
Dru Posted April 12, 2005 Author Posted April 12, 2005 my "second rack" for aid climbing and indian creek is almost all rigid friends! Quote
pope Posted April 12, 2005 Posted April 12, 2005 Ya I was looking at that photo in the guide of you soloing Brass Balls. are you wearing Fire's with tube socks! What are you, the Style Council? If they're cool enough for Wolfgang, they're cool by me. Quote
Dru Posted April 12, 2005 Author Posted April 12, 2005 Do you have leopard skin shorts too? Wolfgang was a sport climber. Are you really praising the fashion style of sport climbers? Maybe you will admit to Lycra next. Dwayner's gonna excommunicate you! Quote
pope Posted April 12, 2005 Posted April 12, 2005 I used to own some lycra that kind of resembled this (but not a jump-suit, just the pants w/o tail): Quote
Alex Posted April 12, 2005 Posted April 12, 2005 Wolfgang was a sport climber. hmmm, last I heard Seperate Reality was not a sport climb? Quote
Off_White Posted April 12, 2005 Posted April 12, 2005 Well, if you pre-protect it from above by dangling long slings on hexes through the crack (as I believe was commonly done), it's sort of like a sport climb. Quote
DirtyHarry Posted April 12, 2005 Posted April 12, 2005 Any crag climb with good pro is a sport climb. Quote
Dru Posted April 12, 2005 Author Posted April 12, 2005 Wolfgang was a sport climber. hmmm, last I heard Seperate Reality was not a sport climb? i'm not thinking there are many hex placements on action directe or wallstreet... and they were bolted on rappel too Quote
pope Posted April 12, 2005 Posted April 12, 2005 Well, if you pre-protect it from above by dangling long slings on hexes through the crack (as I believe was commonly done), it's sort of like a sport climb. With one enormous difference. Do you think you can figure it out? Quote
fredrogers Posted April 12, 2005 Posted April 12, 2005 Well, if you pre-protect it from above by dangling long slings on hexes through the crack (as I believe was commonly done), it's sort of like a sport climb. With one enormous difference. Do you think you can figure it out? Here we go again. Quote
Dru Posted April 12, 2005 Author Posted April 12, 2005 I can't believe how you guys are spraying on my trip report! Where is the rainbows and kittens feel-good "Great TR! Thanks for sharing! Wow, you climbed a 5.8, that's so awesome!" ego stroking? Quote
fredrogers Posted April 12, 2005 Posted April 12, 2005 I can't believe how you guys are spraying on my trip report! Where is the rainbows and kittens feel-good "Great TR! Thanks for sharing! Wow, you climbed a 5.8, that's so awesome!" ego stroking? Dru complaining someone is spraying on his trip report? Sorry about that. Way to climb 5.8! Quote
chucK Posted April 12, 2005 Posted April 12, 2005 I find it interesting that you highlight a climb you considered scary as the "funnest" climb you did. Doesn't this often seem the case? I too think of pitches that were scary as the most memorable and fulfilling. Unless it really is a case of "I'm really lucky I'm not dead now", there seems to be a very gratifying feeling of conquest, over the pitch perhaps, and definitely over your own fear. Note the scary pitches people also rave about as must do's (Canary, Shock Treatment, American Pie, Damnation Crack, Sagitarius, other...?). I don't think these recommendations are due to people being mean spirited, but of a genuine feeling that the climb is a good test, and pumps you up when you've succeeded. Anybody wanna weigh in on this, or perhaps add to the list of scary, but doable and fulfilling pitches? Quote
Bill_Simpkins Posted April 13, 2005 Posted April 13, 2005 The 3rd ish pitch on Banana Peel (the one where you step up onto the slab and go right), if you have never done runout slab. That was my second trad climb, back in the day. My first trad climb was the 5.4 at Sugarloaf, the same day. Those runouts on Banana peel seemed endless, but VERY gratifying. On the second to last pitch, I ran out of rope (this is before I knew was simulclimbing was and simul the rest now) and had to do a gear belay just below the "rock belay". I was scared to death and never let go of the rock. The belay had every peice of gear left on me. That route is still one of my favorites because I enjoy the very things that scared me then. It's all relative I guess. Quote
Dru Posted April 13, 2005 Author Posted April 13, 2005 I think it was coincidental that on this trip the route which was the most fun was also the scariest. I can think of plenty of situations where the two do not coincide. I think the first pitch of Canary is the scary one, there always seems to be wasps where they are not wanted. That feeling where you slot in a finger jam and then feel something alive crawl on your finger just as you weight it never fails to unnerve me. Quote
eric8 Posted April 13, 2005 Posted April 13, 2005 where is American Pie? difficutly and style would also be appreciated Quote
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