Jens Posted February 16, 2005 Posted February 16, 2005 What's your vote for the cascades most dangerous individual pitch (not overall route) of aid currently? You don't have to have climbed it but it could have been a story told to you by a buddy at the bar over a pint. I'm not talking the pitch with necessarily the longest fall potential or the most jingus or hardest to place gear but instead the individual pitch that you would be most likely to get the chop on?. Quote
Dru Posted February 16, 2005 Posted February 16, 2005 Sounds like Son of Pan 2nd or 3rd pitch to me. Quote
crazyjizzy Posted February 16, 2005 Posted February 16, 2005 I don't think you would die on those pitches. Quote
Dru Posted February 16, 2005 Posted February 16, 2005 No but there sure are a lot of good aid climbers who have backed off! Quote
bigwalling Posted February 16, 2005 Posted February 16, 2005 I don't know... good question. Â It would have to be pretty hard climbing! I would think hooking or expando. Thin seams mean gear can be equalized and nest built. Â Son of Pan... i doubt it! That wall looks pretty steep! WHo has backed off Matt and Luc??? Chris and Sean are way solid hard aid climbers in squamish. I would think Skullfuck is hardest in Squamish. Â Index, well V420 is only real canidate for it i think. I have rapped past it several times... 3rd pitch looks hard and i'm not sure where mike really went. The first 2 look thin but at least it is fairly obvious looking. Linking 2 and 3 would be sick i think. Someone should do it! Â Here is the problem as i see it. In washington how many guys are doing new aid routes around here? I don't think many. Â Likely Dangerous Routes at Index: V420 Mystery Route Chicken Mcnugetts(maybe) Artifice(doesn't look bad tho) Dragon Tail Satanic Exile Quote
bigwallpete Posted February 16, 2005 Posted February 16, 2005 I just recently heard of a route Matt Madaloni put up in the North gully that had 5o + feet of hooking of a big ledge a ways up. Is this rumor or truth? Sounds scary. I vote for the second pitch on Cowboys and Indians it took me forever to lead it and it is creatively scary. Quote
TimL Posted February 16, 2005 Posted February 16, 2005 Not counting Squishy, wonder what would be the hardest aid pitch in the NW? Something on one of the North Norweigan Buttresses on Index, Dolemite Tower, something on the Upper Town Wall or something on the Diamond on Bear Mountain? I dunno. But it is an interesting question. Excluding Squishy, is there even an A5 pitch in the NW? Quote
crazyjizzy Posted February 16, 2005 Posted February 16, 2005 I don't know what the "Mystery" route is, but Doug Klewin thought that Chicken McNuggets was the hardest aid pitch he had done, when he and Dean did the second ascent in 1984. That being said, it is a pitch that will abrade you, but not kill you. Â At Squamish, Daryll told that the hardest pitch by far was the Cobra Corner, and that includes the Pan routes, as well as Breakfast Run. Quote
fern Posted February 16, 2005 Posted February 16, 2005 50' of hooking  A5 is all just gossip - Robert Steiner Quote
bigwalling Posted February 16, 2005 Posted February 16, 2005 bliar williams (?) did something on the NNB of Index. Probably pretty hard not sure how deadly. No, A5 in wash... and it would probably be hard to find one! So much has to come togather right for a nw A5... all natural all death. Â Dru, i think chris is the only repeater of Skullfuck at least that is what he thinks. That route looks simply rad for sure. First pitch is expando and bad fall... proabably would live if you fell off the forth. Â Ya, matts hooking pitch sounds spooky... Â jens are you looking to climb the hardest/dangerousest? Let me know if you want to do anything hard. Quote
Dru Posted February 16, 2005 Posted February 16, 2005 all this hype about a5 death hooking .... slap a couple fat bolts in and all of a sudden it goes free at 11b...talk about contriving difficulty! Quote
johnkelley Posted February 16, 2005 Posted February 16, 2005 The free grade would be the same wothout the bolts but with an X. Quote
bigwallpete Posted February 16, 2005 Posted February 16, 2005 Fern thanks for the link that lead sounded awesome. The point here is to respect the first ascentionists decision and climb it like it has been climbed before or next time be the first one to climb it. Quote
bigwalling Posted February 16, 2005 Posted February 16, 2005 actully the point it to feel close to death/life and beat all feelings away. Quote
ScottP Posted February 18, 2005 Posted February 18, 2005 An acquaintance borrowed my ledge and while his belayer sat on it, pulled a flake off Uncle Bens that punched a hole through it, inches from slicing his belayer in two. Â Not a route you would think of as having a death pitch, but Susan almost got the chop on that one. Quote
retired Posted February 18, 2005 Posted February 18, 2005 1st pitch soft shoe ballet, picnic lunch wall, smith rock. a sharp flake sits on the ground and points right at your puckering butthole...once was enough, other two pitches not bad. Quote
COL._Von_Spanker Posted February 18, 2005 Posted February 18, 2005 actully the point it to feel close to death/life and beat all feelings away. Â Or drink the feelings away... Quote
Alex Posted February 18, 2005 Posted February 18, 2005 retired, I've looked at that pitch, pucker factor for sure! Quote
Alpinfox Posted February 23, 2005 Posted February 23, 2005 ... The point here is to respect the first ascentionists decision and climb it like it has been climbed before or next time be the first one to climb it. Â Bullshit. Quote
fgw Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 What about the 96-foot band pitch on South Face route on Saint Peters Dome (gorge)? LOOKS kinda sandbagged at A2?? Quote
Mos_Chillin Posted September 13, 2006 Posted September 13, 2006 ... The point here is to respect the first ascentionists decision and climb it like it has been climbed before or next time be the first one to climb it. Â Bullshit. Â How can you say that in any good conscience, Pax? Please explain. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.