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New and improved cams


Blake

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The advantage seems to be in the smaller sizes.

 

Black Diamond

 

#.5 New Cam0.80-1.3" 12 kN (3.4 oz)

#.75 New Cam 0.96-1.58" 14 kN (4.1 oz)

#1 New Cam 1.2-2.0" 14 kN (4.7 oz)

#2 New Cam 1.5-2.5" 14 kN (5.6 oz)

#3 New Cam 2.0-3.44" 14 kN (7.1 oz)

#4 New Cam 2.6-4.5" 14 kN (9.8 oz)

 

Trango

 

mcchart.jpg

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Speaking of which, any first-hand reviews of the Cinch yet?

 

Got a chance to use it this weekend, actually. Its a little confusing at first, since feeding out slack requires the opposite movement than the grigri (the main lobe pivots upwards to feed out slack, versus downwards on the grigri). That said, once you get the hang of it, on the cinch it is easier to keep your hand in a braking position and feed out slack at the same time. The cinch is also much much lighter and more compact.

 

However, reductions in size come at a price. The brake level on the cinch seems miniscule and is MUCH more pressure sensitive. There is also much less braking surface on the cinch -- whereas the grigri has that entire rolled over flap, the cinch only has an extremely small area directly below where the rope exits the device. On the grigri, you roll the rope to the right, over the braking flap. On the cinch, you have to hold the rope straight down below where it exits the device. Less surface area = less braking.

 

Because of this, I'd feel much less comfortable handing the cinch to someone not familiar with the device or belaying in general. Granted, that's not something you really want to do with a grigri, either -- but, with the cinch, you really really don't want to do it.

 

So, my thoughts were mixed. Old habits die hard, I guess. But the real reason for my reluctance? Clearly, if I used the cinch across the pond, all my euro friends would laugh at me...

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Fern, I do not think you are correct, although I doubt it has anything to do with being a girl. If they are indpendant then these would most likely be able to fit in some very flared placements, trango makes mention of this in on their page, they say that the cams can work like off-sets. I usually am not much of a gear head, I still climb alot with rigid friends (at least the bigger sizes), but I am very interested in checking these out. Especially in the largest two sizes.

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It looks to me like there's no way the inside cams can move independently - so it's essentially a TCU. But I am just a girl and bad at 3D spatializations ... so maybe I am wrong?

 

Take a look at the product pict on their web site - the inner cams are independent which makes me think it's a 4CU. Cool. VERY Interested in these as well. I think the animation was just simplified which makes it looks like a TCU.

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Could someone please convince me why these new cams are so special? I ask because, from the two charts compared above, the new Trango cams gain between .2-.3 compared to the new Camalots. Weight difference is minimal. Maybe I'm missing something, but .2 of an inch doesn't seem groundbreaking, IMHO. Plus, when the axle pivots out as in the animation above, it effectively limits any shallow placement you might want to use...

 

Thoughts?

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